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Old 08-02-2015, 07:54 AM   #61
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1983 31' Airstream310
Hillsburgh , Ontario
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Great weather for your project coming up this week. It's looking great.

I see the Lancaster flying over Niagara Falls pretty well every time I'm down there, except for last year when it was over in England flying with the only other flying Lancaster bomber in existence. I especially would have like to have seen Merlin day at Hamilton airshow with the Lancaster, Mosquitoe, two Spitfires and two Hurricanes doing the fly over in 2014. Ten Merlin engines shattering the air would have been something to experience.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:17 AM   #62
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1968 24' Tradewind
1967 17' Caravel
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Who's holding the buck???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unka Jack View Post
Now come the joy of replacing all those #://)@@(/;&#%*¥¥>## rivets that I had to drill out in the first place.
Buck riveting is not so bad once you get the hang of it... and the buck rivets are so much stronger and less work than the other choices. Choose to start with those those that are hidden under the belt line and you will have the knack of it by the time you get to those that will show.


Chuck
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:04 AM   #63
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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Hello again. Contrary to the rumours, "I'm not yet dead" but life has gotten in the way of my Airstream rejuvenation. Once the shell was back on the chassis had to deal with my Daughters wedding in the backyard. Then putting the same backyard to bed for the winter. The rest of the fall was a matter of patching holes and chasing leaks on the roof of the TT. I was surprised by the number of broken/sheared rivets near the AC. Just as well I'm a "Northern Boy" don't need or want AC.


What I do need is insulation which is the current project. I've decided to go the Prodex and spacers route. Instead of just using a razor knife to cut the foam, I've taken an idea from my model airplane buddies and built a hot wire foam cutting table.Click image for larger version

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In the detail pic u can see the nichrome wire that melt thru the foam like butter. It allowed me to make 4' long 3/4 X 1.5" foam strips with no mess.
It also allowed me to quickly carve any notches and grooves into the strips necessary.
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Here's what I've got done so far...Click image for larger version

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Looking forward to hear your comments.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:01 AM   #64
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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I'm starting to insulate around the vista windows. I've managed to repair the cracks on the plastic frames, but need to find a replacement for the plastic edges on the aluminum slide. Does anyone know of a source, preferably in Canada? The dollar exchange is killing me.... I was thinking of auto door trim, but it looks a little too thick. Any suggestions?

Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:53 PM   #65
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Please post photo of moulding edge on with some measurements and I'll see what I can find.

I hear you about the dollar.

Tony
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:16 AM   #66
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1973 27' Overlander
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Here's the pics.
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The long edge is approx. 3/8".
Cross section is approx. 1/4"
The gap is approx. 3/32"
Total length approx 15-18'
Couldn't find my callipers for a better measurement.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:35 AM   #67
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McMaster-Carr

Style - 6 maybe? They also have a rubber version with more sizes, but they are black.
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:38 PM   #68
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1973 27' Overlander
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Been a cold winter, I've been working inside the TT putting up the first layer of Prodex. Hardest part was getting the glue to stick to the cold aluminium. The first layer is up, Now starts the re-wiring.
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From the outside, you can really see the heat transfer through the ribs and rivets!
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Hopefully the weather warms up and I can start working on all the leaks that I've found.
The plan is to be camping by June. Not finished, but beds, and kitchen. Maybe even dinette.
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:35 PM   #69
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Dickinson Propane Heater installation suggestions

While I still have full access to the inside and outside of the roof, I'm trying to work out how I'm going to do the chimney install for my Dickinson Marine propane heater. Has anyone who has installed one have any suggestions or tips? I'm planning it being mounted on the end of the refrigerator wall.
Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:06 PM   #70
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Here's a pic of the heater in my former boat.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-29-2016, 12:46 AM   #71
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1999 25' Safari
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Wow this is an amazing restoration! I just ordered some of those 3m caulk grinders you showed earlier in the post. I am about to start my overhaul of a 25' 99 Safari. Thanks so much for the photos , can't wait to see your next steps.


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Old 02-29-2016, 11:09 PM   #72
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You may want to look at http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...er-101613.html for the Dickinson install (scroll down the page).
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #73
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Insulation almost done!
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The long tedious job of insulating is almost done. All that remains is the second layer of the forward dome.
I've left a couple of small access areas left open for now so that I can adjust, replace repair wiring and hardware attachment points in the future without having to remove all of the inner skins. Also, I've reinforced the attachment points for the awning with aluminium backing plates so I can use proper bolts to attach them, not the 2" X 1/4" lag bolts the PO had used on a 1.5" thick wall!
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:27 PM   #74
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For post #66. If you haven't found anything, Canadian Tire has some window trim in the auto dept. Black and chrome. Has adhesive tape inside the u. Looks good!
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:33 PM   #75
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1973 27' Overlander
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Thanks for the info. I had forgotten to post that I had found a local (Canadian) manufacturer called Trim Guard" in London Ont.Click image for larger version

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I was able to get it through Martin at CanAmRV. Trim Guard also makes a moulding that is used for airstream belt line moulding.Click image for larger version

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As they are a manufacturer, you have to purchase through a dealer or auto parts store.
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:06 AM   #76
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1973 27' Overlander
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Well it's been quite a while since I've posted. Unfortunately I've had some health issues that are now resolved (except for the wear and tear of living a fun life). Mostly what I've been doing on the Airstream has been all those fiddly little jobs that need to be done. Especially removing all the old caulking and sealants that have been applied by the previous owners! My trusty tools have been my 3M bristle wheel, plastic chisels, and of course McKanica silicone caulk remover.
The remover. Works best after scraping off what you can, you apply the gel over the area and cover it with plastic wrap. I normally apply it in the evening, and leave it overnight. When I peel off the wrap, a lot of the caulking comes with it. Patience is the key to this product.
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:19 AM   #77
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On the inside of the trailer most of the 2 layers of Prodex are in. Also approx 700 feet of marine grade wiring. Having had to chase some bad grounds over the years I decided to "bite the bullet" and not only ran the "hot"/ positive wires, but also the accompanying ground/ negative wires. It was an added expense, but this will be my personal TT for as long as I can still manage it. A few other tweaks I've come up with are extra wire that will be accessible from behind the front and rear domes so I can always change the clearance lights. I used the Grote clear lens LED clearance lights.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-12-2016, 02:32 AM   #78
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To connect the driving lights, I've added a junction box at the front of the trailer with a 7 wire cable from front to back.Click image for larger version

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I haven't got it all connected yet. All my connections are with double crimp connections and screw terminals. Click image for larger version

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When running that much wire, I found it helpful to put all the spools on a rod at the end of the trailer. Made keeping them organized that much easier.
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:39 AM   #79
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The negative side of the wiring is attached to the trailer chassis and shell. The AC wires are run, but it will be a while before I get to installing the distribution/circuit breaker panels. I will be using marine panels again a) because I like them, b) 'cause I just happen to have them lying about from a previous boat project.
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:45 PM   #80
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As part of my upgrades, I've decided to install a Tuson electronic sway control. Earlier I had split the brake wiring into left and right sides. Today after lowering part of the belly pan, I got a piece of 1/8" aluminium plate and bolted it to the cross member of the frame. The instructions call for the controller to be mounted 5-10' back from the ball. Mine was 7' back.Click image for larger version

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Once the wires are connected and tested, I'll create an access panel so I won't have to remove the entire belly pan.
If you haven't seen the controller in action, here's the link to CanAm RV video where they were testing it on the track. https://youtu.be/EF_o__RV5kE
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