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Old 07-15-2015, 09:26 PM   #43
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Finally remove the backing and apply to the cleaned tank side with a 1/4" top and bottom clearance. Be careful, you only get one shot. The sensors are to fragile too remove and reapply. With the sensors attached, just have to connect the wires. The beauty of this system, is that all the sensors are connected in parallel, only 2 wires.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:41 PM   #44
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Here's a pic of the freshwater tank area with the new valves and applied sensor. The dark green on the tank is where I had to weld a large crack back together. Saved me the cost of a new tank! Welding plastic was quite easy. If anyone want more info let me know. I can document the repair of my end caps.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:57 PM   #45
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And to catch up to today, I've cut the Plywood using the old ones as templates. I had to extrapolate some of the curves where the wood was rotted away. I happened to have a couple of quarts of "Bilgecoat" marine paint leftover, so I used them to paint the floor panels. Also used penetrating epoxy to seal the edges of the plywood. If the wood lasts another 40yrs, I wont care. I'll be 97!!! Somebody else can replace the floor again. Besides, I plan on keeping up on the seam maintenance. Also, I've removed the leaking vista windows, cleaned the frames, and will be reinstalling them using glazing tape.
As always, suggestions and questions are always appreciated.
Cheers,
Jack
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:10 PM   #46
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Finally remove the backing and apply to the cleaned tank side with a 1/4" top and bottom clearance. Be careful, you only get one shot. The sensors are to fragile too remove and reapply. With the sensors attached, just have to connect the wires. The beauty of this system, is that all the sensors are connected in parallel, only 2 wires.
They recommend securing that wire real close to the sensor to avoid the wires from being pulled accidentally off of the sensors. That hot weld button on it is not very strong. I would have left a bit more wire on it and duct-taped it to the tank as stress relief... but that's me.

Chuck
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:05 PM   #47
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I did tape it after the pic was taken. I didn't like the strain on the wire myself. All the connections were with a double crimp and heat-shrink connectors. Also there was heat shrink tubing with adhesive lining applied. I don't like my wiring to come apart. Or get water into them.
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:00 PM   #48
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Another week gone. The floor is now bolted down with the wheel well liners repaired and installed.
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:13 PM   #49
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The wheel wells were "welded" using ABS rods and a "Plastic welder" from Harbor Freight. This one looks like a soldering iron with a triangular plate tip. There are other name brands out there, but for small jobs I couldn't justify the $170.00 to buy their kits. The results look rough, but I was using these as training before I tackled the ABS end caps. The welds appear to be as strong as the original plastic. I didn't really want to stress them to the breaking point and do them again.
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:17 PM   #50
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Went out today with my better half and ordered the vinyl flooring. Now just waiting for some more days off (with dry weather) so I can flip the frame and floor and rivet the belly pan back on between the rails. The wraps will come later.
Cheers,
Jack
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:53 PM   #51
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There are only a few complaints I could raise about Airstream and the quality, but for the life of me, I cannot determine why they didn't (and don't) galvanize their frames.

Most European Trailer ('schuze me ... Caravan) manufacturers do so.

Just wondering.

D
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:32 PM   #52
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There are only a few complaints I could raise about Airstream and the quality, but for the life of me, I cannot determine why they didn't (and don't) galvanize their frames.

Most European Trailer ('schuze me ... Caravan) manufacturers do so.

Just wondering.

D
Or use Coosa for their floors.......

Great project with a lot of helpful info.....Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:06 PM   #53
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Tony, thanks for the kind words. Feel free to stop by for a look see if you're down Niagara ways.
Cheers,
Jack
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:28 PM   #54
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Another week of work got in the way of working on the trailer, but I did get some things done. Since the shell is going back on soon it was time to fix the Vista windows. First up was removing the old, multiple layers of different types of sealant. Started by using some things I learned from some guys in the aviation industry.Click image for larger version

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These are sealant removing cutters, and bristle wheels. They fit into an air grinder alone or together.Click image for larger version

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I tried to get a video of them in action, but working with the tool in one hand, camera in the other while standing on a ladder made for some very bad video. I'll post a pic later so You can see the job these tools do.
The cutters are for thicker sealant. The wheels are for thinner sealant. Once most of the sealant is gone, just use a rag with your liquid of choice (varsol, acetone, xylene etc.) to wipe off the remainder. To do the exterior took about 10 min. per window.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:41 PM   #55
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A note of caution, although the tools did not appear to remove the clearcoat, I cannot guarantee that they won't. Since I plan on removing the clearcoat later, I wasn't that concerned. Also, if there is grit in the compound, the grit may put fine marks on the metal. The tools themselves are designed to remove sealant from aircraft wings without damaging the wings themselves. Another caution if you hit the metal with the chuck of the die grinder it will scratch the metal!
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:49 PM   #56
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The radial bristle wheels can be used singly or stacked to about 5 deep. when used singly, they are very good at digging out the sealant between the flange, and the skin of the trailer. So when you reseal, you get a good bond between them without just adding to the old sealant. keeps it nice and pretty.
Cheers,
Jack
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