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Old 05-04-2015, 11:29 AM   #29
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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Thanks for the tip, gantries are down. Had another nice day so started taking off the floor ( saving the old ones for templates ). Most of the frame is solid with only mild to moderate surface rust. The outriggers are what I had seen earlier with no surprises. Unfortunately, there is a section of main rail that the top flange was rusted away. Not worried about the cross supports, I will most likely just weld in replacements. My decision to make, is do I just cut off at good metal and weld on a new section of rail. Or, do I weld in a reinforcing plate along the rail and weld on a top flange. I was always taught that a welded joint is never as strong as forged metal. Any frame experts out there want to weigh in?Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2015, 11:39 AM   #30
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The other topic I would like to kick around is redoing the waste tanks.
I'm already planning to put in 2 grey water tanks up near the axles. After removing the black water tank it was found to be excessively broken near the flange to the point where I wouldn't trust any repair welds. The toilet I'm planning on using is a marine toilet that I have left over from a previous project. It comes with a built in macerator pump allowing me to pump the discharge to the black wart tank. My thought is to put the tank just behind the grey water tanks and run a 3" discharge line out to the rear bumper. The valve would be an electrical one with access for service/repair under the planned street side bed. Anybody have thoughts, concerns or suggestions?
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:48 PM   #31
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I'm thinking the steel that decomposed is from a lousy batch ... or repeatedly dampened. I have never had a weld break. The steel tends to break on the edge of the weld. Probably due to stressors... such as fatigue..which was already in the original steel. I have found that matching the type of steel used in the repair and using the correct welding steel.... and temperature control.

One of the things you can do is to heat the areas prior to welding... don't quench. If welding big pieces, pre-heat... but that is a whole art form....

So, in as few words as possible:
1- using cribbing, carefully support the frame.
2- cut away the 'bad' areas using a reciprocating saw (to minimize heat distortion) leaving appropriate locations for rewelding and adding of 'doublers'
3- carefully create replacement pieces.
4- As you weld in new pieces, add 'doublers'... and add them across the frame, in close to the same place as the repair, from Street to Curb side. This will stiffen the frame 'equally' ... yet still allow for healthy 'flexibility'.
5- cover with rust preventative of choice.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:20 PM   #32
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1973 27' Overlander
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Frame is coming together. After a week of wire brushing, grinding and cutting. Spent the day with my father in law welding pieces back on. First was the section of rotted rail. I was able to get a 6' length of matching steel cut and formed at a local metal shop for $45..Click image for larger version

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Many thanks to Ron Barry who after many years of retirement came out to help. He was only supposed to supervise and coach my welding, but he was having so much fun I didn't have the heart to take the welding gun away. Even in his 80's he enjoyed welding again.Click image for larger version

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The more I cleaned the frame. The more damage I found. So this week I'm back to the metal shop to get more custom angle bent. I'm also getting them to bend up a new box for the black tank.,
This project is really beginning to nickel and dime me! But in the end it will be worth it.
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:15 PM   #33
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Forgot to upload this pic. It was prior to cutting and welding.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-25-2015, 09:50 AM   #34
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Got home after shift this morning and flipped the frame. With the gantries and chain hoists, I was able to do it myself.Click image for larger version

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Sitting back on the blocks.
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Joy oh joy, more grinding, wire brushing and welding.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:37 PM   #35
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Nice work!!! Wish we were closer to help...
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:47 PM   #36
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I really admire your effort and attention to detail. Very nice.
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Old 05-30-2015, 02:34 PM   #37
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YEEEHAAAWWW,
Last of the frame welding repairs are doneClick image for larger version

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Somebody finally took a pic of me at work.

Here is one of the new grey water bays ready to go.Click image for larger version

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All done.Click image for larger version

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Now onto the clean prep and paint phase.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:06 PM   #38
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It was a wet week last week but I managed to get the frame cleaned, acid etched and POR 15'd. Click image for larger version

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ID:	240949When it was raining I broke out the rivet gun and bucking bar and made a new pan for the black tank. ( The old one rusted out)Click image for larger version

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ID:	240951 Never having used a rivet gun and bucking bar before, was surprised how easy and quick it was. Before this I had just ever used a hammer for buck rivets. Never many or pretty afterwards but sufficient at the time. Here's some detail shots of using the gun and bucking bar.Click image for larger version

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ID:	240953 Now I'm just waiting on the black tank from VTS. Then I change hats again and become a plumber before the new floor goes on.
My lovely wife has given me until mid July to reunite the parts. We have a wedding in the backyard in September so I have to be available for yard work until then.
Enjoy the pics.
Ps any good suggestions from those who have gone before me are always welcome...
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:40 AM   #39
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Got the grey tanks from VTS, perfect fit in the bays.While waiting for the black tank to be shipped, went ahead and started roughing in the plumbing.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:46 AM   #40
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Today I also went and got the plywood for the replacement floor. As soon as the last of the tanks are in and plumbing connected, I will start installing the floor. If the weather holds, I should be on track for the "Reunification" before mid July. My lovely wife says I better be. If not, I will be spending my vacation playing catch-up.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:01 PM   #41
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Hello again, thought I'd update the work being done. As the saying goes, "The devil is in the details". I thought I could just cut and remount the plywood floor and be done with it. Then I got to thinking about all the little details that had to be done prior to laying down the floor and putting the belly pan segments back on. First was all the pre-wiring that had to be run through the frame. The brakes, breakaway switch, power supply for the electric jack that I plan to buy at a later date. then was the plumbing, with the tanks, connecting pipes and dump valves. Also the sensors for the tanks. I chose to go with the SeeLevel gauges.
here is the installation pics:

First cut the sensor to length with scissors.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:13 PM   #42
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Next was to cut the tab identifying which tank it is.
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