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Old 05-25-2015, 08:23 AM   #71
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Contrary to popular belief, dry chemical extinguishers are NOT really suitable for cooking oil fires.

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Old 05-25-2015, 09:01 AM   #72
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Contrary to popular belief, dry chemical extinguishers are NOT really suitable for cooking oil fires.

Fire Extinguishers | POLICE

He is right and a little wrong on this point. A more accurate statement would be Class ABC fire extinguishers are not really suited for kitchen fires. Most k class fire extinguishers are dry chemical extinguishers. The difference being in the nozzle. They fan the dry chemical out so as not to splash the flaming oil all over the place. Here is a good option for a K class (kitchen class) fire extinguisher http://m.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-UL-71...73N/205753448/
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:50 AM   #73
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Nice to know K type
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Old 05-25-2015, 10:17 AM   #74
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While we are on the topic of fires, make sure that you replace all detectors as needed- especially the LP detector. They have a life of around 6 years.

One of the best things to have in a kitchen is a container marked FIRE with baking soda in it for times when supervised accidents happen. Many times, in the kitchen, or at the grill, I have used my trusty can of soda to put out fires. It is instant. One time I was broiling bacon as per a recipe. I SHOULD have realized that the directions were dangerous but they said to place the bacon on a 12x9 baking pan- period. Well. the grease gathered and ignited on the broiler element and poof- fire out the stove door (cracked for broiling). A bit of baking soda saved the day.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:25 PM   #75
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Thanks, that helps a lot. I bought a bigger than stock extinguisher and have a good place to mount it horizontally next to the door. Is shaking or turning it over periodically really necessary? Jim
If you are ever present when the fire inspector shows up you might observe that he reads the fire ext. placard to determine if it's still within the date-of-service/expiry... and if it is... then he turns it upside-down and gently "whacks" it with a hit from a rubber mallet... to knock the dry powder loose within the container.

Merely turning it upside down is not really adequate. The intent to to dislodge powder which becomes "packed" from inactivity. Dry chemical powders become almost SOLID from the vibration of driving down the road as the powder becomes packed. ( I once disassembled a large commercial dry-powder extinguisher when it's gauge read zero. The internal pickup/discharge tube was packed so firmly with powder it required me to jam a metal rod down the tube to dislodge the packed extinguishant. The main charge was a solid cylinder until I whacked it with a rubber mallet, whereupon it instantly returned to a loose-powder.
Lubricate the seals/O-rings with WD-40, reassemble the valve, re-charged with 150 psi of dry nitrogen (CO2 will also work if you have a welding setup)...and VOILA!.... it's returned to service (on my private property.)

Don't dent the soft container...but give it a good whack (on the firm edge of the cylinder-bottom/rim) while holding it upside down, at regular intervals ...in an RV, at the beginning of each trip during the departure-inspection would be a good rule, IMO.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:31 PM   #76
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Thanks for the info. Jim
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