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Old 04-21-2014, 07:36 AM   #15
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rub rail = belly band and/or beltline molding.
Typically, the skin seams (where two sheets are riveted together) are sealed with Acryl-R and, if done well at the plant, don't leak for quite a few years. Eyebrows (rain gutters) over doors and windows are notorious leakers, both from rivets installed over rivets as well as the sandwiched aluminum material involved. Awning and rain gutters are also frequent reseal candidates, followed by rivets in general, awning mounting hardware and window glass.

At least that's my experience.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:58 AM   #16
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I tend to like the Parbond but I don't live in Texas. The Parbond is much more flexible and will run into cracks around window frames. In places where stuff flexes and there is relative movement is does a better job. I have used Parbond and then put Trempro over that. I use them both. I have had more problems with the Trempro cracking than the Parbond. I put the Trempro on some skylights and it lasted about a year then got hard and cracked.

Perry
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:33 AM   #17
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Perry and I experience the same results. There are two areas where I haven't found a great solution. Both are from front end flex. Before I go on, let me say I am confident I don't have abnormal movement in the front end. The frame is healthy and I have never had a popped rivet in the front anywhere. It is normal (and needed) to have some A-frame flex while going down the road. But there is some movement transferred to the front end skin from flex. I have the inner batt box door frame edge where the skin has a tendency to oil can a tiny bit relative to the box door frame. This eventually leads to a break in sealers between the skin and the bead of sealer. I drove very small screws, from the inside, clamping the skin to the door frame and cured the curbside, but the streetside still separates

The other area is the lower inboard corner of the pano glass. The glass is not sandwiched to a frame, but rather is just glued (with Vulkem) into the inner surface of the outside frame. Over time, flexing in that area opens the seal in the lower inboard corner. I have tried digging out as much vulkem, from the outside as I can (about 1/16" and covering with new vulkem or Parbond. Both reseals only last about 2 years, and is only an "umbrella" over the separation of sealer and glass. This spring I am trying Tolleys as it wicks down all the way and fills the entire separation. We'll see.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:08 PM   #18
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One more quick comment. I have noticed some discussion about the type of TremPro we are using 626, 635, 644, etc.. For example 626, and 636 are Polyurethane sealants, 644 is Silicone. Here is an excellent pdf breakdown on all the TremPro product from Fastenal. Check it out. http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2007/4-67.pdf
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:34 PM   #19
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I used Trempro-635. 626 is supposed to be the original Vulkem formula. Both are urethanes.

Perry
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Perry and I experience the same results. There are two areas where I haven't found a great solution. Both are from front end flex. Before I go on, let me say I am confident I don't have abnormal movement in the front end. The frame is healthy and I have never had a popped rivet in the front anywhere. It is normal (and needed) to have some A-frame flex while going down the road. But there is some movement transferred to the front end skin from flex. I have the inner batt box door frame edge where the skin has a tendency to oil can a tiny bit relative to the box door frame. This eventually leads to a break in sealers between the skin and the bead of sealer. I drove very small screws, from the inside, clamping the skin to the door frame and cured the curbside, but the streetside still separates

The other area is the lower inboard corner of the pano glass. The glass is not sandwiched to a frame, but rather is just glued (with Vulkem) into the inner surface of the outside frame. Over time, flexing in that area opens the seal in the lower inboard corner. I have tried digging out as much vulkem, from the outside as I can (about 1/16" and covering with new vulkem or Parbond. Both reseals only last about 2 years, and is only an "umbrella" over the separation of sealer and glass. This spring I am trying Tolleys as it wicks down all the way and fills the entire separation. We'll see.
I'm unfamiliar with the design of the battery box but is it possible to pull the frame and back it with a strip of eternabond doublestick tape and rivet/ screw it back on? I am amazed at how pliable and elastic the stuff is more than a year later ....
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:51 PM   #21
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I'm unfamiliar with the design of the battery box but is it possible to pull the frame and back it with a strip of eternabond doublestick tape and rivet/ screw it back on? I am amazed at how pliable and elastic the stuff is more than a year later ....
Probably, but it's a pretty big job. To do it right one would have to pull the sofa, the electrical center, the battery boxes, the mouse fur and the inner skin to get to the frame mounting rivets. There was barely enough room in the inner skin gap to drive a few short screws between the inner skin gap and the battery box to reinforce the outer skin/door frame interface. That worked on the curbside. I may try to get one more screw into the streetside one. But even that is a contortionist's job.

They're attached sort of like the taillight housings.....riveted to the outer skin before the inner skin was installed.
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