Advice on yearly maint to keep my International in great condition

[TinTin]

Check all the roof seals around AC, fans, stacks etc. for cracks or gaps. If problems are suspected, re-seal with Silkaflex 721 (white) or Adseal (white).

Checking the roof seals once or twice a year should be adequate.

[PharmGeek]

I have used the boeshield T9 on the wheels and wiped off the excess...I think however having done it once I will use the corrosion X next time.

Avoid contact with brakes at all seems a good idea...I was careful about spraying that area to hit only the metal surfaces of the wheels and not all behind them.

I have yet to take off the AC covers to check the seals around them...got up there once before a couple months ago and checked everything out, except for around AC's as they had those covers on them still...

[dkottum]

On waxes and polishes so many have favorites and report excellent results from them all, I am sure they are all good, one as good as the other if they are a decent quality.

More important is treatment of exterior rivets and edges on clear coated panels and exterior fittings and wheels with anti-corrosion product (CorrosionX works very well). Underbody steel and parts need protection too, Boeshield T-9 works well.

[TinTin]

As Pharm mentions, no need to caulk around the rooftop air conditioner. They are sealed by a gasket, and should never leak. As far as caulk on the roof goes, many suggest using Dicor self-levelling caulk.

[RangerJay]

Some annual or bi-annual tasks that have not already been mentioned:

• packing the wheel bearings
• checking brakes
• propane pressure testing
• lubrication of the door hinges/lock mechanism saves a lot of grief - so does lubrication of the aerial as already mentioned.
• lubrication of the stabilizer's
• sunlight deteriorates the roof vent covers over time - think I've changed mine at least 3 times over the years - now carry a spare.

Also - a good set of mud-flaps or some other protection from stones being thrown up is a good investment - ours is now showing the evidence of 12 seasons of coast-to-coast road trips which I think could have been mitigated with better mud-flaps.

One thing about Airstreams - they really age well - and with a little TLC they always look great.


Jay

[polarlyse]

I just yesterday gave our AS a waxing. Looking good, at least for the time being, but is there anything needed to be done on the white roof surface ???? Would it benefit with a coat of wax or is there something more appropriate to use ??

Jay, do you have fantastic fans or some other on the rooftop. I'm suprised to hear that yours have needed replacement so frequently.

[BassCan]

What a good list. Tagging this post for later reference.

[dkottum]

Good points Jay.

If you use CorrosionX or Boeshield T-9 to lube hinges and stabilizer jacks you will also provide corrosion protection as well as lubrication. It is especially important to spray some corrosion preventive spray up and into where the stabilizers mount to the body, very prone to corrosion there.

[dkottum]

Our vent covers were in excellent shape after two years so I decided to put Maxxim (or Fantastic) vent covers over them so we can leave the vent covers open for ventilation and not worry about rain coming in. They also protect the vent covers from sun damage.

[TheCabin]

What is the best order to follow for waxing and corrosion prevention? Is it corrosionX/boeshield followed by wax/glare or wax/glare followed by corrosions/boeshield?

[RangerJay]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Jay, do you have fantastic fans or some other on the rooftop. I'm suprised to hear that yours have needed replacement so frequently.

We had one Fantastic Fan installed a few years ago and that vent cover is good - my understanding is that Fantastic Fan vents are protected against ultraviolet rays. The remaining vent (and its replacement covers) seems to last 2 or 3 seasons at the most - then they very literally rot and crumble away - can't explain the frequency except to note that our trailer is never under cover.


Jay

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by TheCabin

What is the best order to follow for waxing and corrosion prevention? Is it corrosionX/boeshield followed by wax/glare or wax/glare followed by corrosions/boeshield?

Corrosion treatment is my priority, wax is mostly cosmetic on these Alcoa pre coated panels. So I wax annually, corrosion treat quarterly.

Some polishes such as Glare say to remove any previous finish before applying so for the annual polishing I polish first and treat for corrosion after. Sounds kind of redundant but it has worked for three years so far, no corrosion whatsoever anywhere.

[TinTin]

Doug, regarding the use of CorrosionX, do you really apply it to all aluminum panel edges and rivets? That sounds like a lot of work!!! Aren't there 32 zillion rivets on the average AS?

I thought it was only used in locations where filiform corrosion was beginning to show?

[polarlyse]

Thanks Jay. Ours has 2 fantastic fans and the covers seem to be OK so far. We need to keep it outside since we've had it ( 3yrs) but it's earlier life was stored underground in a limestone cave in Missouri by the previous owner so it's exposure was limited for the first 10 yrs.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by TinTin

Doug, regarding the use of CorrosionX, do you really apply it to all aluminum panel edges and rivets? That sounds like a lot of work!!! Aren't there 32 zillion rivets on the average AS?

I thought it was only used in locations where filiform corrosion was beginning to show?

It can halt minor existing corrosion, scratch the corroded spot, touch it with CorrosionX and let it soak for awhile. It will follow the filiform worm and prevent water from getting in. Then cover the spot with clear acrylic touch up paint.

Prevention. The filiform only affects rivet holes in the clear coated panels as near as I can tell. So I only treat the rivets in clear coated panels. I spray some in the CorrosionX cap, take a Q-tip and dab them liberally top to bottom on every rivet line, and then run it liberally down the panel edge nearby, let soak as you move around the Airstream. As you move around look for any fresh nicks and dab them as well, wipe and touch with acrylic clear coat pen. Wipe up the drips gently with a rag when all done. Takes about a half-hour or so.

I spray the hinges, wheels, taillights and all such fittings, let soak and wipe up gently. I hit the stabilizers underneath liberally as I go around. Another ten minutes or so.

If we were in a coastal salt or northern road salt environment I would spray and wipe the window and door frames, and any unprotected metal surfaces as well. That may not be enough protection depending on amount of exposure and time after exposure before washing. These environments are a battle for metal trailer parts.

I have not treated the white roof panels for corrosion because I don't believe they are Alcoa clear coat, just paint. But not sure.

[TinTin]

Thanks Doug. One last question, do you notice any effect on the wax finish in places where you've applied the CorrosionX to panels?

[PharmGeek]

What is the "aerial"?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[dkottum]

No Bob, the CorrosionX doesn't seem to affect the polish.

[dkottum]

An aerial is what old farts like me call the antenna.

Or, what's an antenna?

[TheCabin]

Thank you Doug for your protocol. It is the best one that I have read. I am just a little nervous about adding chemicals into the metal-plastic coating interface, but then the corrosion is far worst.