Advice on yearly maint to keep my International in great condition

[DoublTrouble]

That is exactly where I am in this adventure.

[DoublTrouble]

Check the thread 31743

[DoublTrouble]

I have been studying it for weeks among other threads. If you flip to the last page, check post #2120.

I am trying to see if anyone is still working this through before I start with my new 27FB

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by DoublTrouble

I am wondering if you used the X on that grab handle too, it seems to be an issue for most people. I thought I might hit it with a coat of Nyalic right away to see if it helps.....

X on the handle will just make it oily. Not what you want to grab onto. Sand the cheap clear coat off the handle and hinges with 600 wet and dry paper. you can then polish more if you want with on up to 2000- 3000 grit paper. Paint with Nyalic via a spray or actually, for those small items, a good small brush will work well. These shown were Nyalic brushed.

I sprayed right over the original clear coat on the tail light castings with Nyalic. Look closely, in a certain reflective light and you can see the start of a small bit of crazing. The tail light castings were sprayed 2 1/2 years ago and have just started to show those small reflective lines when the light is just right. I'm not worried about it, and don't think it will continue to get worse. I can only guess the Nyalic is slightly reacting with the cheap clear coat that is on the cast pieces on our trailers. To be sure that does not happen, one would need to sand the original clear coat off prior to spraying Nyalic. The Nyalic touch up on the trailer skin that is clear coated by Alcoa, does not craze. It just blends with the Alcoa coat perfictly and shows only ever so slightly shinier.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by wvstreamer

Am I to understand that you can use theX on filaform spots or panel edges then clearcoat? Always thought all lubricans had to be removed before paint. I have concerns beginning around some handles, edges, lights... typical places. Want to get a handle on it this year. Much rather do good maintenance than big expensive project. Just purchased end of summer last year so this is the year to get it done. Fortunately it was stored inside for part of it's life. Thanks for all the great info from all of you!

Yes, you can spray or dab Corrosion X on seams, rivets, etc. Wipe off with a dry rag (thus leaving a small residue of X in a seam, rivet edge or soaked into a line of filiform, etc). Do your touch up with Nyalic and since it is a polymer, it will adhere to the area just fine.

On a squiggle of filiform, try to pen prick,or scratch the line first, then apply the X, allowing it to soak in. Wipe off with that dry rag then seal with Nyalic. Works great.

[Howard L.]

One more thing guys. I can't recommend enough that you seal every external exposed skin panel edge with a clear coat product of some kind. During assembly, Airstream cuts the panels sent from Alcoa where they have been clear coated with a baked on finish. After assembly, Airstream does not reseal the cut edges. The rivet holes are drilled and thus have lost their clear coat also. You can only hope to soak Corrosion X in behind the rivets for that potential problem area. The exposed edges, however, you can re-protect.

[DoublTrouble]

Thanks Howard,
That is exactly what I needed to fill in the remaining blanks. Now I can sleep at night.

Regards,
Jeffrey

[DoublTrouble]

Well, I hate to say it, but, while we were near Sequoia National Park we received an inch of rain one night. I decided to break out the moisture meter and check accessible perimeter floor areas. AND I found a 30% moisture area at the floor in the front street side area of 27 FB. It's right at the nightstand base. So, we detoured to Bay Area Airstream Adventures (place of puchase) and left her there to be inspected. The damp area would not have been detected without the probe. It seems to be a soft 3 inch square area. On the outside, the street side awning bracket is directly above the suspect area. Now, we will see what the dealer says when they look at it next week. I showed the service advisor the probe as I tested various areas that were dry and the area that is damp. He said that he had never heard of an owner using such a device.
Since we are still under warranty , I am very curious what will happen next.........

[DoublTrouble]

Follow up, the dealer pulled night stand and said that there was no sign of a leak. Hmmmm.
I noticed that the latest edition of the Blue Beret listed annual maintenance ideas. It includes an annual "SealTeched" test. Luckily, the local Camping world has the equipment and does it for $170. I'll be setting that up this summer. I called SealTech to find locations that might not be listed on their website, they only have a list that started in the last few years, locations that purchased the equipment under prior ownership are not shown on their website.

[PharmGeek]

My moisture I detected some time ago next to the bed is still a mystery...it is on record with AS and I was given reassurances that if it has further problems there it would be covered

The dealer was unwilling to do anything about the moisture meter tripping like it did and it still trips in that spot - I it my hand under the flooring enough to feel and it feels dry - no surprise there I guess

It is not growing and I keep an eye on the edges that are exposed for now for moisture in heavy rain and so far it seem dry...

No other problem spots detected

Now that I've been out of warranty for 6 or so months - I may look into the sealtech leak testing annually

As it relates to maintenance btw - since I had problems in the pas with the stock converter charger and changed it myself - not a drop of water has burned off the batteries in - hm - well over a year perhaps at this point....

Also - man - wash the AS monthly - I got a few months behind on that task and it took hours - to get back to where it should be - omg pollen aaaahhhhh

[Beach Bum]

XX on sealtech leak check.. We think of it as cheap insurance and piece of mind. We have ours done annually at JD Sanders near Gainesville FL it was either $100 or $125. I don't like going on the roof so I have them pull the both ac covers to check for mudobbers, any other debris and check the drain lines also have them inspect caulking and seams while they are up there. I think that added about $ 75 to the bill.

[PharmGeek]

In used to the roof now but it always is a tedious matter

https://youtu.be/UlkV4tXWlFc

[Kellerzal]

You aren't kidding about that pollen - I too waited a bit too long to wash and it took me all day to get it clean(ish). Had to do the toothbrush thing for the silver strip that has the bevels in it. Found out that an old Sonic Care tooth brush works really well to get into some of those cracks! Thanks for the post!

[PharmGeek]

The nooks between the window rubber gaskets and window aluminum frame filled with pollen -

O. M. G.


Ok I'm done - clean regularly! Now I'm like "hmmm - maybe twice a month"

[J. Morgan]

Without reading any responses, I say make sure that the inside stays dry, keep the pipes and tanks from freezing, and fix what breaks as it breaks.


Superat stultitia.