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Old 10-07-2014, 07:42 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by TheCabin View Post
Thank you Doug for your protocol. It is the best one that I have read. I am just a little nervous about adding chemicals into the metal-plastic coating interface, but then the corrosion is far worst.
The CorrosionX and Boeshield appear quite harmless to your panels and metal, check their websites or call for assurance. Filiform and rust will make a mess out of them, very difficult to fix.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:34 AM   #44
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It can halt minor existing corrosion, scratch the corroded spot, touch it with CorrosionX and let it soak for awhile. It will follow the filiform worm and prevent water from getting in. Then cover the spot with clear acrylic touch up paint.

Prevention. The filiform only affects rivet holes in the clear coated panels as near as I can tell. So I only treat the rivets in clear coated panels. I spray some in the CorrosionX cap, take a Q-tip and dab them liberally top to bottom on every rivet line, and then run it liberally down the panel edge nearby, let soak as you move around the Airstream. As you move around look for any fresh nicks and dab them as well, wipe and touch with acrylic clear coat pen. Wipe up the drips gently with a rag when all done. Takes about a half-hour or so.

I spray the hinges, wheels, taillights and all such fittings, let soak and wipe up gently. I hit the stabilizers underneath liberally as I go around. Another ten minutes or so.

If we were in a coastal salt or northern road salt environment I would spray and wipe the window and door frames, and any unprotected metal surfaces as well. That may not be enough protection depending on amount of exposure and time after exposure before washing. These environments are a battle for metal trailer parts.

I have not treated the white roof panels for corrosion because I don't believe they are Alcoa clear coat, just paint. But not sure.
Doug when you spray under the trailer...stabilizers, etc...do you wipe down after or just leave on? Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:55 AM   #45
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When I spray Boeshield T-9 annually (and hit stabilizers and step mechanism with a little CorrosionX during quarterly shell treatment) on the underbody steel parts I don't wipe it up because I want it to soak between the fastenings as much as possible.

It is messy looking, gathers some dust but no corrosion so far and that's more important to me. You can experiment with it to find a level of protection and appearance you're comfortable with.

This treatment program works for us but we don't tow in northern road salt and have not parked near the beach yet. I suspect those conditions would need a higher level of protection. Maybe someone has found a good program for those more challenging areas?
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:22 AM   #46
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I added also maintenance of battery cables - sprayed some of that red stuff the factory used on the terminals - bought the stuff at local auto parts store in a spray can


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Old 10-25-2014, 06:21 AM   #47
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I sprayed the whole underbody with corrossion x ,i used two full cans (the large ones) when the trailer was new and clean, I did not wipe it just left it on to penetrate all areas, also sprayed rims and all awning metal,window frames door frame,front A frame,Jack,and any aluminum on trailer ,I did wipe it with a rag otherwise the the trailer will look like a mess with the corrosion x dripping everywhere oh also put some on a rag and wiped all rivets on the outside of trailer and the metal door step( make sure to wipe off step top part )otherwise it will be slippery and someone could fall. Also the other thing I did is walbernize the outside of trailer. As for battery terminals I put white grease on them when the trailer was new , and to keep battery charged I use a 10watt solar panel plugged in when the trailer is parked and turn off the main battery switch.

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Old 10-25-2014, 07:38 AM   #48
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Wow - that was pricey endeavor

I think it took me only one can of the boeshield t9 for the underbelly and only a fraction of he can of X to treat the seams and rivets

Could you clarify - did you spray the whole trailer - all aluminum panel surfaces?!?!


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Old 10-26-2014, 08:05 AM   #49
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #50
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To help prevent scale buildup in the plumbing system we use a portable RV water softener. Also greatly improves the water for showering and washing, she loves it.

Weekend and vacation campers may do fine with the smaller models, larger models will give more time before recharging for long term travelers.
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Old 11-09-2014, 12:59 PM   #51
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Best way to sanitze fresh water

Pharm - you mentioned that we should sanitize the fresh water system - what is the best way to do this? Thanks so much for all of this info everyone!!!!!
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Old 11-09-2014, 01:44 PM   #52
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There are nice YouTube vids showing how - "RV geeks" channel have a nice video but it's on a motor home with a Different setup

I forget the proportion of bleach (plain bleach - no scent or other things) to water but you multiply the gallons of water capacity in you fresh water tank - add that amount to your fresh water fill (I used a 1 liter bottle with a small window cut into it as a sort a funnel - works for me) - you out the measure bleach into a gallon of water or so then dump that I to the tank and fill up your FW tank achieving a proper dilution overall....

Then use you water pump to draw in this mild bleachy water until you smell it - I repeat this for all the cold water pipes - not for hot - I guess I could but not necessary perhaps as I don't plan on drinking out of the hot side if things ? I guess it's still not a bad idea to sanitize that side? No big deal to do it I suppose

Then let it set for 4 hours - some suggest driving around with it in there - too much hassle for me though - then drain water from FW tank and refill it with plain ol fresh water (btw get the little fresh water fill tube with valve it helps IMO ) then use water pump again to flush out all the lines until no more smell

Ps - I avoid getting any of the bleach solution into the black tank...seems I recall reading about it causing some issue

Good luck - I will be interested to hear from others about the hot water side of things - I guess you could hit the hot water heater bypass valve then do it to make it quick and easier ?


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Old 11-09-2014, 02:19 PM   #53
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Great post. I'm going to be resealing our whole Airstream this week. Cracks in the caulk abound.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:34 PM   #54
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Great post on maintenance. Whew... I need a nap after all that.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:52 PM   #55
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I just applied the corrosion x today using q tips - this proved much less sloppy than trying to carefully spray areas and wipe up excess. I think I want a small dropper of some sort to use to apply it along the belt line and other areas.

Good news - I have no corrosion I can see on any panels - only some on the grab handle to the right of the entry door.


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Old 02-27-2015, 06:40 PM   #56
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Did you decide to seal edges with a clearcoat? And which wax did you ultimately choose.
Picking up our new 27FB in 2 weeks. I need a maintenance plan!
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