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Old 08-06-2016, 09:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
m.honey, on the first night of our maiden voyage last winter, were in a friend driveway w/SP. I turned on the furnace, the gas fired, then the AC fired.

I noticed in the manual two references to hard boots to the factory defaults. Ours in a 2014 so the CCC2 stat may not be the same.

This operating instruction I just picked up off the web and is a bit different in page display. The system re-set is on page 11. On my manual it is on pages 4 & 20 but contains the same procedure.

It worked for me...we had heat that night...without the AC. I should also say we have never used the HP for either heat or AC mainly due to the noise, but plan to dive in on our fall trip to MO.

Bob

Same thermostat-
Same manual-
2013 trailer-
Reset procedure does not work-
Now...
No a/c and display has zone 1 flashing and zone 4 not flashing-
This started with the reset procedure in a he manual.


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Old 08-06-2016, 09:18 PM   #16
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Along the lines of converting an A/C unit from electronic operation to use of a manual thermostat, given all of the functions that are required of the control board, factoring in things like evaporator freeze control, multi unit compatibility and use of the A/C, heat pump and furnace functions, I seriously doubt that any conversion of the type could be successful.

Also, don't forget that any control system that requires more than a phone-type data cable will require new wiring from the t/stat location to the A/C unit. Good luck with that!!!!

I have had to replace control systems several times in larger motor homes, but they were for RVP/Coleman units and required both new control boards, thermostats AND complete system re-wiring.

Luckily, these units had common duct work that provided the path for the new wiring, and the thermostat location was also easily accessible and in close proximity thru an adjacent closet.

Airstream trailers offer very few of these requirements.

If m. hony is having communication issues between the upper control boards and the t/stat, first place to check is the cheap plastic unions that join the data cable running from the t/stat to the upper control board.

If you have Airstream's ducted system, this will be difficult to access as there is no real 'ceiling assembly' to remove. You might be able to gain access by removing the air return grill on the curb side, located directly below the unit.

Best bet would be the unit closest to the t/stat, as this has a high probability of being the Zone 1 master unit where the initial connection is made.

I would also be armed with several RJ-11 unions for the purpose.


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Old 08-06-2016, 10:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Tried that several times.
Nothing works.
Error code is gone.
It shows zone 4.
None of the buttons will do anything.


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I had a similar problem with my previous airstream. Try killing ALL power. Unplug electrical AND put battery disconnect in the store position. Wait ten minutes. Plug in shore power and see if proper communication is re-established between both ac's and thermostat. It worked for me.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:20 AM   #18
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I guess it's worth a try.
I got nothing to lose.
I just don't get why we need a programmable thermostat in a camper.
It just needs on/off, heat/air, temperature, and fan like an old timey house thermostat.
Even if it has to have fancy electronics to communicate with the mother boards on the units it could still be simpler/less complex-
Bi-metal spring and a Mercury switch...


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Old 08-07-2016, 04:22 AM   #19
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I also don't get why we need 2 units to run on 1 thermostat.
If the thermostat quits, both units are down.
It would make so much more sense to me for each unit to have its own thermostat.
Why has it got to be so complicated?


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Old 08-07-2016, 07:48 AM   #20
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I found this info on another forum:

Here is how to fix the most common dometic thermostat problems for the 4 and 5 button Comfort Control thermostats. Dometic support is awful and there are a lot of folks out there spending large sums of money on new thermostats and upper board conversion kits. With this posting you can save yourself big bucks.

I am a geek and figured it all out. There are procedures here you will not find anyplace else.

Below are the 3 most common problems and the way to fix them.

AC UNITS TURN OFF WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS, THERMOSTAT WILL NOT TURN ON, OR WILL NOT STAY ON:

-- The on/off switch on the thermostat probably has cracked solder joints. Re-solder the switch to the board and make sure the switch is snug on the circuit board so the solder does not crack again. Use a small 25-watt soldering iron with a finer tip on it. Of course, use electronic solder, not the solder used from plumbing! (Note: Dometic boards are famous for cold solder joints -- you might need to touch up the other solder points -- but don't try to do the microprocessor unless you know what you are doing.)

-- Also, soak the power switch with spray contact cleaner and operate the switch a few times.

-- If the above does not work, you might need to take the switch off the board, take it apart and fix it (you won't find a replacement for this switch on the internet due to the long paddle on it).

-- These switches were not properly mounted to the circuit board in the first place. You might have a cracked trace on the circuit board, which can be fixed by carefully scraping the green backing off the board with a small razor knife and soldering a small piece of solid wire (such as telephone wire) across the crack.

PUSHBUTTONS DO NOT WORK PROPERLY

(Note: the logic on the board triggers functions when a button is released, not when it is pressed. You have to let go of the button before a function is processed.)

Clean the switches. Remove the PC board from the housing. Do this in a clean work area so you don't lose any parts. Using a small flat jewelers screwdriver, carefully prise the locking tabs holding the top of the switch on the base JUST ENOUGH to pull the top of the switch off. Be sure not to lose any parts. Clean the contacts with spray contact cleaner and perhaps Q-tips. Snap the top back on the switch.

TEMPERATURE SENSING PROBLEMS:

First you have to understand how the system works.

For zone 1, the thermistor (little yellow thing near the thermostat on/off switch) inside the thermostat is usually used. If a remote sensor is plugged into the AC unit upper board (the white 2-pin plug), then the remote sensor is automatically activated by the thermostat and the temperature sensing electronics inside the thermostat is disabled. Do not bother trying to fix the electronics on the thermostat. It is complicated nonlinear circuitry and can't be fixed since Dometic provides no documentation.

Zone 2 usually has a remote sensor wired to the rear upper AC unit board. The temperature is processed by circuitry on the rear AC upper board. Look for a white nylon 2-pin connector on the upper board to see if a sensor is connected to it.

NOTE: In both cases, if a remote sensor is used, the electronics on the upper board are used to read and process signals for that zone from the thermistor. If communications between the boards and thermostat are hung up, it won't work right and there is no telling what it will do.

NOTE: If you are going to unplug the thermostat from the phone connector, always turn the thermostat off first, and also be sure the thermostat off before plugging the connector back in. If the thermostat is on when you unplug it or plug it back in, communications will not establish.

For testing, you need a thermometer from around the house so you can see what the real room temp is. Use a fan blowing on the home thermometer and the thermostat so you don't have to wait all day for thermostat and thermometer to sync up.

Dometic says these thermostats are accurate to +/- 5 degrees, which is abysmal. My experience is that they are usually within +/- 3 degrees (lousy). You will probably have to live with it if your thermostat is in this range.

If your thermostat isn't turning on/off at the right temperature (+/- 3 degrees), here is what to do (in this order):

1. Clearing communications issues: your unit can get into a situation where the thermostat is not communicating with one or both upper boards. Turn the thermostat off, and turn power to the AC units off and on. Then turn the thermostat on and see if it works better.

2. Reset the thermostat to factory specs. This can correct some problems with invalid temperature measurement when the thermistor inside the thermostat is being used. This sequence definitely works with 4-button thermostats. I do not have a 5-button unit to test so I cannot say if it works on 5-button thermostats. Do the following in the order below:
-- Turn the thermostat on
-- press any button once
-- press and hold the bottom 2 buttons in
-- press and release the mode button one time
-- release the bottom 2 buttons
-- press and release the mode button
-- if you did the above sequence correctly, the thermostat backlight will turn off. If it does not turn off, do the above sequence again.

3. Rear unit: If the temperature setting still does not work right, the problem is in the upper board (not reading the remote sensor thermistor correctly). Get a new upper board (available on the internet)

4. Front unit without remote sensor: Since the thermostats are no longer available and the circuitry not repairable, install a remote sensor 3106486.008 in your front AC unit. Just plug it into the upper board and the thermostat will use it. You will have to figure out how to route the thermistor down into the RV. If this does not work, the upper board is bad and needs to be replaced.

2. Front AC with remote sensor: Either the thermistor sensor is bad, or the circuitry on the upper board is bad. The sensors rarely go bad, but you can check the sensor with an ohmmeter. Unplug the sensor from the white plug on the upper board, and measure the resistance. The resistance should be about 7.2k at 70 degrees, 9.8k at 60 degrees, or 12.4k at 50 degrees. If you are seeing no resistance, then the thermistor is definitely bad If the thermistor is good, replace the upper board.

2. Reset the thermostat to factory specs. This can correct some problems with invalid temperature measurement when the thermistor inside the thermostat is being used. This sequence definitely works with 4-button thermostats. I do not have a 5-button unit to test so I cannot say if it works on 5-button thermostats. Do the following in the order below:
-- Turn the thermostat on
-- press any button once
-- press and hold the bottom 2 buttons in
-- press and release the mode button one time
-- release the bottom 2 buttons
-- press and release the mode button
-- if you did the above sequence correctly, the thermostat backlight will turn off. If it does not turn off, do the above sequence again.


This has NOTHING to do with temp sensing issues. ALL this does is reset to the TEMP preset on the tstat (usually 72 degrees and just verifies the DIP switch settings on each control board. NOTHING else. A LOT of people think the reset is like resetting a PC. It is NOT. It does NOTHING for operational issues. As to your assertion that people are spending money when the system can be fixed. You are correct, but at $125 per hour average labor, It would cost HUNDREDS of dollars to do all things you have suggested with no guarantee that the system will function after it is done. Now, if you have the tech smarts you have, then it is worth the time and effort. MOST rv'ers do not have the knowledge and expertise to do what you did. Besides, 4 button systems were discontinued almost 13 years ago, so paying someone to do that work is not cost efficient.
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Hope this provides some solutions to your problems
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:23 AM   #21
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Got to get if fixed, before "Pickin at the Lake" in September. We will be there, hope to see you.

Sorry about your issues. Makes me like my 1968 Armstrong all the more.

Good luck,

B.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:34 AM   #22
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We will be there regardless. If I don't have it fixed by Little Sturgis bike rally August 19-21 we are taking Jannie's 2004 Airstream Interstate and Jannie's 1995 Allegro Bus.
It's good to camp with someone that owns 4 campers...
I wonder where the "upper board", "white 2 prong plug", and "T-connector" are and how do I get to them?
Remove the a/c cover inside the trailer?
Access from the roof?
Hmm...
I am intimidated by the whole process and I'm thinking about taking it to Reliable RV Repair in Gluckstadt.
If I ever replace the a/c units I will go with something simpler/ less complicated, more reliable, and 2 thermostats.


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Old 08-07-2016, 08:36 AM   #23
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As I said, we will be at Pickin' regardless on spot #32.
Will you see a 2013 Airstream Classic or a 1995 Tiffin Allegro Bus?
Hmm...


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Old 08-07-2016, 03:00 PM   #24
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inconsistent Coleman heatpump

I have a Coleman heat pump with the remote thermostat that is very inconsistent about starting when first turned on. I usually turn the fan on first then the cool or heat setting. Once it is running it cycles on and off correctly, but, when I first turn it on it it may come on immediately or the compressor may not come on for 20 minutes or the fan may not come on until the compressor decides to kick in or the compressor may not come on unless I turn the fan on first. Sometimes it sounds like the compressor tries to kick in then stops.

Does this sound like a Thermostat issue (bad solder joints) or an issue with the roof top unit? I have the digital thermostat with the slide switches. I had the local "recommended" vintage Airstream repair shop rewire the T-state, check and clean the unit. They said everything was ok.

I do have a perfectly good round type Honeywell residential ac/heat thermostat with mercury switch. The only thing I can see that it wouldn't control is 2 fan speeds which could be wired with a separate spst switch and the gas furnace which I have on a separate thermostat. How well would that stand up to bouncing down the road between uses?
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:07 PM   #25
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E1 Error

We had the same problem on our 2014 Serenity. The first time it happened the tech was able to re-program the CCC. The second time the control board on the #2 AC was fried. It seems that if the drip pan gets clogged water will eventually reach the computer board and wires. Bad Design! I am going to have a hole drilled in the side of the pan as an emergency overflow. You might check your pan and see if it is draining properly.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:03 AM   #26
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I asked a friend who owns a refrigeration repair company and is also a long time RV'r and he said forget the mechanical thermostat with the mercury switch. That is designed for stationary use not a rolling earthquake. It will be continually working the spring as you run down the road and ultimately either break or be really inaccurate.
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