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Bubba L · 12-02-2018, 07:48 AM

The hold down plate on our 55 was basically a 2” x 2” angle welded to the frame. That was completely rusted out. I went back with an 1/8” hold down plate in front. I don’t have a rear hatch so I added a plate there also. I painted the plates with Por 15. In retrospect, I may have gone with an aluminum plate instead of steel. All rivets there are in “shear” so I don’t see any harm with aluminum. Great job.

dbj216 · 12-02-2018, 06:42 PM

Don't be discouraged. It is just an old Airstream that can be repaired. I've seen worse than yours, including the rear frame of my 75 Overlander 27'.

My trailer has a body hold down plate in the front as well as the rear. They are both steel like yours. My wife's 86 doesn't have one. I think it was unwise for Airstream to eliminate this structural member.

Dropping the belly pan is always a mess. I've done 4 of them. I think it is good to get all that old, wet stuff out from underneath the floor and then you can take a real good look at your frame.

Our longer trailers from the 70s typically suffer from rear end separation that can lead to significant frame droop from the axle mounting plate to the rear bumper. Maybe you felt like you were walking downhill in the rear of your trailer. Maybe you have done the rear end separation "bounce test" on your trailer. If the body is separated from the frame, this test will reveal it.

Be sure to inspect for cracks in the axle mounting plates, both sides. And your welder will be able to strengthen the frame where needed. My guess it is unlikely you will have to make a new frame, but you will likely have to repair it here and there.

David

Kristof · 12-03-2018, 10:49 AM

Hey David,

Collin Hyde and I both did the rear end test and were happy there was little sag. This was a mid bath unit and comparatively is relatively unscathed. We also had Colin (In Platsburgh NY) put new axles on before it was towed out west - so happy at least that part things is fine. As you said - mainly cosmetic with an opportunity to tweak the structural sides as well. I think Max and I were really hoping it would not be as bad as we had heard.

dbj216 · 12-03-2018, 07:23 PM

Very, very good. Colin is the expert's expert concerning Airstream trailers. If he blessed the frame and installed new axles, you are way better off than most of us with 70s Airstreams.

So when the belly pan and associated mess is all done, then you can have a good look under there, fix what is needed, and move on from there.

I'm encouraged! All will be good. Except when it isn't. We all have days like that. Press on regardless.

Suggestion: Maybe you would like to start a "project thread" in the Airstream Trailer Knowledgebase category, then choose your year and model? That is where folks collect when doing a renovation like you're doing. Your individual posts appear as new posts for everyone to see. That way you won't be scattered all over the Forums when you have a question about electrical, or interior parts, or windows, or door locks, or plumbing, etc, etc. If you did, I'd follow along.

David

Kristof · 12-03-2018, 11:18 PM

Agree - I did that. For some reason however I used this one instead of that one to create updates. Be nice to know how to just move it over.

Kristof · 12-03-2018, 11:19 PM

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f221...ld-177943.html

Kristof · 12-16-2018, 05:11 PM

Well the rainy season is here and if I have time I am reaching ahead to some cosmetic but necessary work. Here is the before and after photo of the wheel covers - steel wool, paint thinner and Tremclad if anyone wants to know. And since I cannot find the original design I am making it up.

Kristof · 12-20-2018, 04:45 PM

Hey folks,

Today was supposed to be our annual Canucks game and sadly we are in the midst of a huge storm with major wind and sea so the island is shut off from the mainland - no Canucks! We knew early on in the day that this was going to happen so I managed to get out to Lucy where it is fairly secluded and protected by huge fifth wheels all around us.I took out some lumber to get a head start on the shell off frame and made some progress.

I am using wood screws through the aluminum and back into the wood at the end of the frame - drilling through the aluminum and driving the wood closer or drilling through the wood and driving the aluminum to the wood. Either way this seems to work well. I have used carriage bolts in the middle of frame pieces to fasten them into one 2 X 6 frame. The plan is to secure the lateral frame pieces via 2 X 4 to this lengthwise beam. Two 10 ft 4 x 4 horizontal beams will be perpendicularly attached to the main frame pieces after the shell is lifted over 4 inches - which will hold the entire ensemble off the ground on 4 X 500lb rated saw horses.

Thoughts so far?

rmkrum · 12-20-2018, 04:51 PM

Once you get the shell off the frame, consider that you now have a large, easily flown or rolled aluminum kite that's vulnerable unless tied down thoroughly. Plan to tie it down, and I'd keep it as low to the ground as you can--not high up on standard height sawhorses...

There are threads on shell-off restores that have ended sadly and abruptly when the wind rolled their precious aluminum shell into a ball of crushed foil. Plan accordingly, please!

Kristof · 12-20-2018, 06:46 PM

Winds here today are above 40 knots so that is a growing concern. I really appreciate the advice we will have to design a way to get it onto the ground. Perhaps using jack stands? Not sure how to get it down - any ideas appreciated.

Kristof · 12-23-2018, 05:26 PM

Today headed put to Lucy to template a cross section of frame in anticipation of shell off activity happening in the new year. I had the help of a very qualified carpenter and was happy with the template fore and aft. We will be putting 3 more of these frames in the midships section as we get more and more of the underbelly off and the channel cleared and ready. Happy for any helpful commentary at this point.

Bubba L · 12-23-2018, 06:05 PM

Everything is well thought out. The support framing should keep the shell in the original form. Do make sure the door opening has a spreader and is supported well. Good luck and great documentation.

Jeremy9107 · 12-26-2018, 12:18 AM

Keep that carpenter involved. I lifted my shell off and wish I had used extensive supports on inside like you have. Is your plan to lift off with a gantry? Am sure that carpenter can build something solid. That way you can lower on blocks or something similar. I battled wind also but got lucky without any blow overs. How about something like a tent spike, only beefier, pounded in ground to allow for tying a strap or rope to?

Kristof · 12-26-2018, 05:42 PM

All good advice. So we plan to lower it onto the ground resting on the 4 X 4 12 footers that we will use to life it off and support it on the horses (temporarily). We have the front and rear finished but am working on ensuring all the bolts and rivets are properly removed before we finish the frame and attempt a lift. My friend has some ideas on getting it to the ground and then we will tie it down using 100 pound concrete parking blocks (you can see them next to the trailer). I am hoping for a quick turn around on the sand blasting and welding - but I am not going to take any chances.

Kristof · 12-26-2018, 05:43 PM

Christmas Day and all through the house - everyone was sleeping except this old mouse. Out to Lucy 77 I did steal, to drop off some supplies and make use of my grinding wheel. Some chores were avoided and put to the test and would you not know it the wheel-well trim came off without a rest! While Dancer and Donner and Blitzen flew high, old Kristof drilled out holes and let the belly panel hang dry. Soon it will be time for the shell to come off and with the weekend arriving soon we better get going before I catch a bad cough. Christmas is over and with my new orbiting blade I will ensure that those bugger body bolts are gone without aid. Merry Christmas from Lucy, Kristof and Maxine.

Kristof · 12-28-2018, 05:26 PM

Some thoughts on Lucy's solar design. (it is boxing day sale period - hence my motivation)

I have played with solar technology over the past 20 years and installed several deployments. My goal (see my energy budgets) has always been a measure of self sufficiency. Yesterday it was ten days - ten days of electrical energy, 10 days of water, 10 days of sewage, 10 days of gas. With the development of newer solar panels and lithium ion batteries, I find I can actually start to use the goal of "off grid" - limitless.

In a mobile solution however weight and balance are a big issue as is roof space and overall weight (trans-portability). With Boxing Day sales on, today I looked at and measured out the solar requirements of what this means to Lucy 77. I looked at 50W, 100W and 160W solar panels and compared size/cost/watts/weight using sale price figures from Amazon.ca. This led me be able to determine cost/pound, watt/pound, watts/inch and then finally comparing them all to produce 1KW (my off grid number). This comparison has nothing to do with batteries, charge controllers or inversion to AC.

What I learned was:

The cost per watt is better the higher you go but peaks after 100 watts. At 50 watts it is $00.17 and at 100 watts it is $00.10 where it flat-lines from there.

The amount of watts produced per inch is exactly the same and is a flat line no matter what.

The watts per pound is also a fairly flat line starting at around 5 watts/pd and ending up at 6 watts/pd.

While the numbers of panels to produce 1 KW is different, the total square inches of panels is almost identical.

The total weight of panels is far less the higher wattage you put together. At 1KW, the 50 watt panels weighed in 200 lbs while the 160W panels weighed in at 152 lbs. That is a big difference.

The cost was surprising - the 50W panels and the 100W panels were almost exactly the same price while there was a good margin (~$500) up to the cost of the 160W panels which produced 40W less than the other two.

Synopsis: While it may seem logically cheaper to buy the 50W panels on sale, it is not. The weight is much more and the effort to install twice as many panels is much higher. The 160W or greater panels need to come down in price to meet the 100W cost for installations greater than 500W. The biggest difference for the higher wattage panel is less roof space.

Kristof · 12-30-2018, 06:17 PM

The sun came out! Cold tonight but we had a good day at Lucy. We are at another turning point where our plans are stalled due to the amount of time required to get these bloody bolts out of the end frames. You can see from the photos the current technique - which is grinding the ends off. I tried several other techniques mentioned including using an oscillating saw under the frame to cut the bolts. After 30 mins I had one bolt done. WIth the grinder - 5 mins. Just seems to other way.

Also did some shell off preps with jack stands - Max cut away the sealant on the C channels where it meets the skin so we are ready to go in most spots. We need to finish the frame and secure the door frame (as recommended by a new forum friend) as well as some small things around the trailer to secure the area better. I figure this set back will add another week to the journey as power for the grinder is an issue (had to stop work today when the battery voltage went below minimum for the inverter).

Heading out tomorrow with the generator and a better attitude about bolts.

dbj216 · 12-30-2018, 08:13 PM

Rusty bolts are a pain for sure. And they are everywhere in our old vintage Airstreams. I sense the 70s trailers were more prone to rusty metal than any other vintage. I don't know why.

Here are some rusty bolts I have to fight with. I spent extra money for stainless steel replacements so I would sleep better at night knowing some other enthusiasts won't have the fight I did.

David

andymeyer · 12-30-2018, 08:47 PM

I think the ones we had to pull were broken off with a pair of channel locks - a few gentle rocks back and forth and pop went the bolt... We only pulled the ones around the rear of the trailer. Trailer's off at the welder right now for frame repair. As soon as we get her back, we'll be putting in the new floor board (just the last 4 feet) and putting the insulation (sheet foam - 2") under the floor. Your pics are keeping me motivated - keep 'em up - I enjoy seeing the progress.

Seems like you are working quickly - faster than we are - though we slowed down quite a bit finding a welder that we trusted, then having time to be ready, then his schedule... I'm tempted to start work on the walls and cabinets while we wait - as well as the electrical. I was originally planning on the whole shootin' match - 4000W of solar, Mr. Fusion for the cloudy days and an oxygen generator when we had the poker table out, but I think we are going to stick with the basics and wire for the future...

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Kristof · 12-30-2018, 11:16 PM

David,

I am in for stainless for sure! Not sure what happened in the rear but the floor board, bolts and frame are not in any usual form. My thoughts initially were this would be easy - but grinding the bolt head was tough with the remains setting my hair on fire. LOL! I really think the easy part is putting it back together . . .