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emilyweav · 02-25-2019, 07:47 AM

This winter has been brutal. With personal things that came up as well as weather (thank you polar vortex) I haven't made as much progress as I was hoping to. We were able to move the shell inside for the winter, so that was helpful. We also just reattached the C channel to the shell to make creating a new subfloor and reattaching the shell easier. We took it off to begin with because we thought the subfloor sat inside the channel. When we removed it, we realized it just sat on top of the subfloor in my model, so thankfully that makes putting everything back together a little easier. I don't have any pictures right now, but I'll upload some when I get a chance. We realized when putting the C channel back on that the only places the skin came below the channel was in the very front and back. I was wondering if anyone has any wisdom on whether or not that can be trimmed? My thought was it may be easier if we can set the whole shell down and move it where it needs to be to make sure everything is straight. I don't have to worry about rot with the subfloor and my understanding is that since the bellypan/banana wrap material also rivets into the channel, they would still overlap if the shell came to the very bottom edge of the channel. Any input from the more experienced?

TennTex · 03-03-2019, 01:37 PM

On my Overlander of that year, the side panels extended well below the C-channel to wrap under the outriggers to the horizontal point of the belly pan; by your shell-off pictures it is clear yours is different. I wonder how the wrap portions are done on yours.

The panel extension point in the rear becomes important depending on what you do with the cause of the rear water damage and separation, affectionately called the "funnel plate." Plenty written about this on the forums, but it is the horizontal sheet extending from the bumper lid forward under the subfloor. A bead of caulk between the panel and the funnel plate was the only barrier against all the water coming down the rear of the trailer going right under the subfloor. I placed a panel between the existing rear panel and the C-channel, going down to the level of the belly pan, forming the forward wall of the bumper trunk, completely sealing off the rear of the trailer. Others have fabricated curved and bent replacements for the funnel plate that acts as flashing under the rear panel.

However you do it, despite the fact that your subfloor is rot-proof, you will want to change this design.

Have fun, and thanks for posting your adventure,
Alan

emilyweav · 04-14-2019, 09:01 AM

Okay seasoned Airstreamers I could use some help! We put the shell back on and I have a few concerns. The first is that in the back curb side corner the c channel didn't rest on the floor. When I lowered it, it was raised probably close to an inch. I'm assuming the aluminum was bent over time due to the rear end separation and rotting of the subfloor back there over time. We jacked up the back of the frame to meet the c channel and then bolted it through the outriggers and back of the frame. Is there any reason not to do this or would that be the recommended solution?

My second issue is with the wheel wells. The composite floor is adhered and bolted to the entire frame. We just realized our wheel wells are too far towards the middle of the trailer, so when we rivet the wheel wells to the shell, it pulls the shell inward and doesn't look sleek like it's supposed to. Since we screwed the wheel well to the frame before adhering the floor, finding those screws will be difficult (yes we should have marked them). It seems like our options now are either to find the screws around the wheel well and put holes in the brand new floor, or find something to use as a spacer between the wheel well and the exterior skins. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

57Vintage · 04-14-2019, 09:08 AM

Photos would help. How much of a gap do you have?

Can of beans · 04-14-2019, 10:04 AM

The molds for the wheel wells are terrible considering they are made for the Airstream specifically. I bought the new ones for our 72 to replace the old cracked ones, and I can see why you mounted them in too far, they look like they should sit on the frame rail, and it would make sense, but they end up being sort of partly on the frame. the new ones have a higher wheel opening than the old ones. I ended up making adding a row of rivets above the old ones. and reinforcing that line with a strip of aluminum inside the plastic to make a big washer.

The wheel opening width is not huge, but as long as your tires look like they will fit ok. If they are two inches to far in it could be a problem, but if it's just a bit, you could make some rot resistant spacer, out of aluminum or plastic. Or use more of that rot resistant decking material you used. it might even make a better end product, more room to get Vulkem down in there and seal it correctly. Some stiffness wouldn't hurt the trailer in that area either.

emilyweav · 04-22-2019, 07:23 AM

Here are a few pictures of the wheel well area. It's hard to tell in pictures, but it's a lot more obvious in person since the airstream is reflective and shows imperfections more easily. The road side seems like it has more of an issue than the curb, but they both end up bowed in if we rivet them in place.