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Old 03-13-2016, 03:23 PM   #43
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Springville , Alabama
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The metal prep is a great and needed component to the por-15 system. It's call por-15 for paint over rust. I know the logic" then why did I remove all if it to rust it again". The zinc coating really does a make a Hugh difference in the boding of por-15. I had to grind some off for mods. It was harder to get off than the other I painted straight por15.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:16 PM   #44
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1968 26' Overlander
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A little late on the update... After sandblasting, marine clean, metal prep, and a couple days waiting for warmer weather... I had a rusty frame again! Surface rust is what POR15 wants I guess. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-08-2016, 09:34 PM   #45
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Por15 silver first coat took me way longer than I expected. 5 hours using a foam brush, and I went through a quart. Ran out Still had a few sections to go. And then it was dark. so much for a second coat while it was still tacky! Click image for larger version

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Old 04-08-2016, 10:10 PM   #46
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1968 26' Overlander
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New wheel wells made up from a local sheet metal guy. Going to spray the inside with rubberized undercoating to hopefully make them a little more resistant to all the salt and road grime in RV life... And Yes, my silver frame turned GOLD! POR 15 is not UV protected, and two weeks of sun changes the color!Click image for larger version

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Old 04-09-2016, 10:24 AM   #47
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Wow

You have taken on a big big job. Looks like it's going well. We bought a 66 trade wind a few years ago and started off gangbusters. But a lot of other projects took precedence so we are just now getting back into it. Praying to get it finished up and on the road this summer. We've done a lot of the hard stuff but didn't have to take ours down as far as yours. I'm back on the forums trying to get some inspiration and motivation. You're thread gives us a kick in the rear. Keep up the momentum. Great job.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:26 PM   #48
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I like those wheel wells. The frame looks good. Try a good paint brush instead of the foam. The por15 flows well. All the brush marks smooth out. Looks great. Keep it up
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:30 AM   #49
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1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County , Pennsylvania
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SonOfAnder,

Looks great. We're getting back to work on our 68 Overlander this spring, so it's great to follow your thread. Fortunately our frame is in good shape, so the shell stayed in place.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your progress,

Roy and Marie
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:18 PM   #50
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
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You are doing well so far! You a certainly adding decades of life back on to this beautiful trailer. I admire your attention to detail. Its a long road, but you will just love the feeling of looking back at your progress.
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:12 PM   #51
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1968 26' Overlander
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Thank you for the compliments and motivation! It is a lot of work and hours, but i know it will all be worth it! @Hippiechick, glad to help inspire! Do you have a thread? I would love to see your progress. I find a ton of help on Instagram too actually. There is a whole little group of us who share ideas and techniques. Just check out #airstreamrenovation and go from there. @rugjenkins Thanks! The wheel wells turned out pretty good. The guy kind of skimped on the rivets, so I doubled them up and put a serious bead of caulk on all the seams. The rubberized underbody spray is now tough as nails on it. I'm happy with them. Also, I painted the second coat black with a brush. Works so much better. Also, I used a small zip roller for the flat parts. SO much faster! And it cover really well and evens out. Really wish I had started out that way from the beginning and had worked in sections. I could have second coated while still tacky. Oh well. It's done now. Silver top coated the front, step, and tail section. The POR TopCoat is a totally different paint. It dries VERY fast and will start to build up and shows brush marks. @artisanair, thanks! I'm looking forward to a custom trailer to last me the rest of my days!
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:49 PM   #52
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On to the next step!

A little bit of progress is happening now that the weather is finally staying warm and dry! The Gold Frame is now Black! I called the costumer service at POR15 and asked them about how bad it was that my frame had sat for two weeks in the sun between coats, and the silver had turned gold. He wasn't concerned at all. He did say though that the second coat would not stick unless the entire frame was scuffed with a red 3m pad or 300 grit sand paper. His exact words were "you don't have to go crazy, just take the glossy shine off of it" Well, that's easier said than done on a 26' frame with nooks and crannies! Plus, that silver paint has metallics in it, so it's seriously strong and shiny. It sucked. I cursed, wore my finger tips out. But whatever it is done. Lesson learned! Next time, either do the POR in more manageable sections, don't use it at all, or pay someone to sandblast and paint!! Anyways... The black went on easily and looks great!
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:10 PM   #53
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1968 26' Overlander
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AdvanTech Subfloor

AdvanTech Subflooring. 3/4 inch thick 4x8 sheets. Six of them. These boards are not just your typical partical board or OSB. I thought long and hard about this. I see so many people talking about marine grade plywood and epoxy painting the outside five times or painting all around the edges of normal ply... Well, this stuff has zero voids just like marine grade, has water proof resin mixed throughout the entire board, and is pressed together with so much oriented strand that it is stiffer than plywood and with better pull out strength too. Yes, it weighs 78lbs a board, but that only adds about 60lbs to the floor. Plus, I don't have to spend $100 a board for marine grade, another $100 for epoxy/paint... Not only that, but they are so sure of their product, that they have a 500 day outside guarantee. Basically, if you didn't finish building your house, they say this can stand up to the open weather elements, rain, sleet, snow for almost two years... And at only $25 a board??? I'm sold. Now all I have to do is hope my jigsaw doesn't burn out trying to cut those curves! Click image for larger version

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Old 04-20-2016, 10:39 PM   #54
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I like the black better than the silver.
Great choice on the advantech floor!! That what I put in mine. I used it in my house 13 years ago and had a sheet let over that sat on the ground in the weather for 9 years. I needed some it some project and dragged it from under the leaves. Cut it up and used it. It still looked great except for grey weathering. Awesome stuff. Keep going you'll have the shell on soon!
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #55
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Thanks rugjenkins! Nice to have someone else with a good review on the AdvanTech! I think a lot of people assume it is just like ordinary OSB, but just by looking at the small little sample they had at the lumber yard, I could tell it was tough stuff! I also bought a board of Huber Lumbers 1/2" Zip sheathing board to use underneath where the boards originally joined together. This AdvanTech, being tongue and grooved, might have to be laid down long ways instead of across. I'm yet to experiment with that! I was too busy trying to unload my new axles off my truck that finally arrived from Colin Hyde today! Oh... And spreading the three yards of mulch my wife wanted spread around her flower beds 💪
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:19 PM   #56
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1968 26' Overlander
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Tracing the curves

So when I brought our Overlander home and decided to left the shell, almost all of the perimeter rivets holding the C-channel to the shell were already popping loose. So I just took it off completely and decided to make new channel. The old channel is extruded aluminum that is obviously bent with a precision machined curve at the factory. It seemed to me that tracing that curve would be way easier than trying to trace an old rotten out wooden board! It was... Click image for larger version

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