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Old 01-29-2016, 05:27 PM   #29
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This pic?

Is this the picture? I hated to see this and I don't even own it, can't begin to imagine how he felt when seeing it himself.

GO GET A BROOM NOW!
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:56 PM   #30
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yep . . . the photo is bad enough on it's own . . . when you put it in the context of his rebuild thread, it's devastating.
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:15 AM   #31
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Yes I saw this picture before when I first started thinking about snow. It hurt so much to see that happen! The picture I posted was actually from my neighbor since I was out of town... So the next day I went straight over to check on my shell and remove the snow before we had a rain shower. Luckily, the snow on the shell was all gone! The bright sunny day after the storm had warmed up the aluminum enough to make it all slide right off... Another advantage of the classic round shells of the '60s Airstreams!
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:43 AM   #32
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It looks like it gets a lot of sun. That helps the melting considerably. We may not be bothered by the "white burden" anytime soon.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:55 PM   #33
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Custom plasma cut replica outriggers! Cut to size for both the steps and the the rest of them. They turned out pretty good if you ask me. Now if I could just the snow pile to melt so I can pull my trailer across the street to have the welder tack them on! Then it is sandblasting time! Click image for larger version

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Old 02-10-2016, 06:50 PM   #34
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Banana wraps making me go bananas!

Really wishing the PO knew how to back up a trailer without jack knifing... Trying to figure out the best way to fix/replace/re fabricate these complex curves of metal. Going to try a few things to fix these, probably with little luck, give up and then maybe build a mold and see if I can pound some aluminum into submission somehow.

Anyone out there have any luck? Click image for larger version

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Old 02-10-2016, 10:52 PM   #35
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Looks like a job for an English wheel.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:05 AM   #36
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The English wheel is a tool normally used for initial flat metal. That is not to say that you could use it to try to re flatten the metal, but would be extremely difficult to get smooth passes through the wheel. Your best bet is to buy a dolly and a ball peen hammer and try to work out most of the wrinkles. You want to focus on the high spots, the low spots or dents can be filled with fiberglass. Use a fiberglass product like bondo hair to fill in the low spots and create a strong sub structure. Then go over it with your normal bondo to finish it out and and smooth the area. This also should help from the damage reoccurring from road debris, although it will not help if you jack knife it.
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:39 PM   #37
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One down, one to go!

I think I can live with this... Took a few hours, but this is the streetside pictured in my last post Click image for larger version

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I basically beat the crap out of it in my basement with a rubber mallet against the concrete floor at first. That took out the big stuff. Then I used a gallon bag full of lentils and the back of a curved rubber hand sanding block and a mallet to reshape the curve as well as I could. A smaller mallet and a 2x6 cut to the curve of an outrigger clamped to the table allowed me to pound out the rougher spots. Then I sanded it lightly. That showed highs and lows better. Pounded some more. And more. And more.... Turned out pretty good! The curbside needs a patch job. Might try to work on that one tonight!
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:30 PM   #38
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Out with the old, in with the new!

Well the giant snow mound in front of my trailer frame finally melted and I was able to bounce it around the corner to the welder's shop. The frame with frozen axles and no weight on it is really not safe to tow! It bounces and flexes like a long piece of sheet metal. Luckily it was only a few hundred yards tow.

New outriggers welded on, the step works great again, as well as a new front steel tie down plate since mine was pretty rusted through. New trailer safety chains, and all new cross members at the rear of the trailer under the bathroom for the black/grey tank. Didn't get the bill yet, but I know this is something I didn't trust myself enough to do by myself.

Next up is cleaning up the frame and painting. Ordered POR 15, one quart black, one quart silver. I have a sand blaster, but not a big enough compressor to run it! Might have to rent a good gas powered one for a day. Hoping to haveClick image for larger version

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Old 03-11-2016, 09:31 PM   #39
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Sandblasting is a dirty job!

We had beautiful weather all week. But of course real world work took over most of it. Today I rented a tow behind trailer air compressor. Big diesel engine air pump that they use for running jack hammers. The guys at my father-in-laws old hardware/rental store insisted to use the biggest compressor they had to sandblast. I certainly never ran out of air! Started out with my little craiglist bought blaster and it was going pretty well I thought. Kind of slow, but I managed to get the trailer tongue pretty well cleaned up after about an hour and a bag of sand... Then the cheap nozzle tip started spraying sideways. It had worn out already... So I went back to the store and picked up their commercial sandblaster. Wow. That made a huge difference!!! This thing peeled the paint and rust off in just one pass. With the two hours left of daylight, I managed to finish the hole curb side half of the frame!

I was covered in sand. Everywhere! My driveway is now a beach... A note to anyone who tries their own blasting. Cover up completely! Even a tiny patch of uncovered skin on your face will get a very good. exfoliation. The hardest thing is in the whole process is trying to see what you are doing. Its dusty. Goggles fog up. Then the blaster basically sand blasts your goggles, so by the end of the day you can't see out of them at all...

Back at it first thing tomorrow morning! Will post some pics.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:03 PM   #40
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Before

Before and After of the frame sand blasting! Such a huge difference! It only took 900 lbs of sand :/ but all in it cost me under $200 for the compressor, blaster, and nine bags of sand. I was quoted over $600 to have I done. So I say the dusty mess was worth it. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-12-2016, 08:12 PM   #41
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After

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Ready to paint! Plan on using POR15. I know there are a lot of forums on this stuff, and I have read tons of them, but what are your thoughts on using metal prep vs just painting right over the freshly blasted frame? It seems almost crazy to me to get that frame wet and rusty all over again. I know, POR needs rust to adhere, but it also sticks to blasted metal. And isn't the metal prep really just a rust remover and a metal etcher? The metal prep would get the little bits of rust that I didn't blast off... So that being said, if POR 15 really does want a rusty frame, I guess that means I can stash it away in my garage for a few days till it is a nice warm long day again.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:50 AM   #42
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The factory frame paint on my '73 had a creosote-oily base to it, something a close cousin to undercoating vs. a true paint... A wire wheel slung enough of it back on me stripping my frame and staining my skin we'll vouch for that. So even with your blasting the stuff off there are residues left if just from dust and the rough surface snagging some as it whizzes by. Do a scrub-down with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and follow through with the POR-15 Metal Prep., maybe $100 for a gallon of Prep and quart of cleaner, you won't be sorry.

Doing the zinc 'metal prep' process will change the surface of the metal to something resembling 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper; POR-15 locks onto that surface and becomes part of the plating.

I had to use six or so aerosol cans of Chemtool B12 carb cleaner to wipe the creosote 'angle grinder wire wheel' smear off my frame - you might try spraying a foot long section with brake or carb cleaner and see it the solvent chases off anything, leaves a ring or stains a cloth wiping it down.
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