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Old 06-08-2015, 07:23 PM   #1
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 220
'59 Globester brakes - how they work / parts?

I just bought a few months back. The guy who owned it wasn't mechanical and didn't do much to it.
In a few months I've done many small repairs but now am focusing on the brakes.
It has the 12" 5 bolt backplate and I've taken drums off, cleaned and inspected. I've cleaned bearings and repacked. I am now going to see if they work by hooking up the harness and trying the brakes with wheels off the ground.

My question is I see the brake lines run over and tee off up into belly pan. I've looked inside the trailer and have yet to find a reservoir or master cylinder.

How do the brakes work? Usually brakes are applied by your foot as to how hard you need to apply them?

Also how do you buy the brake parts? I was thinking of just taking apart, having drums turned, new bearings, shoes, wheel cylinders etc...

Thanks for any advice as I'm new to the AS world. I've had all the other toys and have worked many trades so I'm handy.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:54 PM   #2
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1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix , Arizona
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I have no idea how they did it in '59, but trailer brakes now are electric. Did you see hydraulic wheel cylinders when you took the hub off?

You might have hydraulic surge brakes (with the master cylinder on the hitch), but the easier route will probably be to replace the whole shebang with electric brake sets.
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Old 06-13-2015, 12:10 AM   #3
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by drboyd View Post
I have no idea how they did it in '59, but trailer brakes now are electric. Did you see hydraulic wheel cylinders when you took the hub off?

You might have hydraulic surge brakes (with the master cylinder on the hitch), but the easier route will probably be to replace the whole shebang with electric brake sets.
Thanks, yeah I started a couple different threads. I was just hoping someone had done this already on a 50's model.
Already have hubs off and searching for electric self adjusting system.
Removing all hydralic line etc...
thanks for you r feedback as consensus is hydraulics are a thing of the past.
Brake controller is next.
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Old 06-19-2015, 03:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twolanehwy View Post
<snip>
Brake controller is next.
Brake controllers have evolved quite a bit lately. Depending on your tow vehicle, they might be already built-in, or even just plug in to the fuse panel. I've got a Tekonsha Prodigy that's 10+ years old, and it still works great.

The #2 pin (you should triple-check this) on a 7-pin trailer connector is the brake control wire.
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Old 06-19-2015, 05:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twolanehwy View Post
Thanks, yeah I started a couple different threads. I was just hoping someone had done this already on a 50's model.
Already have hubs off and searching for electric self adjusting system.
Removing all hydralic line etc...
thanks for you r feedback as consensus is hydraulics are a thing of the past.
Brake controller is next.
If your original brakes were hydraulic, you will also have to replace the drums, or add the round plates to the old drums. However, those round plates are pretty well history. Replacing the drums is basically impossible, in that the bearings in the new style drums, are very different from yours.

If your Airstream had electric brakes, you will still have a problem with your old drums. The old drums will hit the metal edge of the new style backing plates, plus being severely out of balance.

Your only practical choice would be to update the original style axle, or install a new style torsion axle, which Airstream switched to in 1961.

Many owners that purchase the 60 and older model Airstreams, upgrade many things with them, including the new type torsion axles. The reason Airstream switched to the torsion type axle, is that they learned that "all" Airstream trailers must have a softer ride than the leaf springs offered.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:56 AM   #6
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
If your original brakes were hydraulic, you will also have to replace the drums, or add the round plates to the old drums. However, those round plates are pretty well history. Replacing the drums is basically impossible, in that the bearings in the new style drums, are very different from yours.

If your Airstream had electric brakes, you will still have a problem with your old drums. The old drums will hit the metal edge of the new style backing plates, plus being severely out of balance.

Your only practical choice would be to update the original style axle, or install a new style torsion axle, which Airstream switched to in 1961.

Many owners that purchase the 60 and older model Airstreams, upgrade many things with them, including the new type torsion axles. The reason Airstream switched to the torsion type axle, is that they learned that "all" Airstream trailers must have a softer ride than the leaf springs offered.

Andy
I left a message at Inland RV for you Andy.
Thanks for the info but I have many other questions. Can you please get back to me as I am on jackstands and summer is passing me by.
I could put the old stuff back on but for safety's sake would prefer to upgrade / finish this part of the project.
thanks
Chip
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