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Old 02-24-2006, 01:28 PM   #15
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The more I learn, the more I love you.....
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Old 02-24-2006, 01:29 PM   #16
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Toasty, I have LED's in the cabinet over the dinette. I like them, but only use them to provide mood lighting, or to leave on when at the campsite and we don't need a lot of light. The halogens are definitely preferred if you want/need real light. I will probably and another set of LED lights somwhere else in the trailer, but the rest of the lights will get changes to the 5 watts!

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Old 02-24-2006, 01:37 PM   #17
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Jon and Westfalia

Do you guys know if the "reading" lights (the ones with the bendy arm) use the same bulbs?

You know, one of the things that I was always wondering and wanting to do is find out if there was a way to put dimmers in place of the switches for some of the interior lights. Especially the bathroom lights. In the middle of the night it would be great to great to just be able to see where I am going, and then go where I am seeing.

It is a rude awakening to turn on those lights. I avoid that now by using a small Kryptonite flash light. A sleeping wife makes for a happy husband.

Jonathan
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:17 PM   #18
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Jonathan, yes the reading lights use a G4 pin base, and are the same bulb.

As for dimmers for the over head lights, I haven't found a plug and play solution. I was instead thinking a adding surface mount red LED courtesy lamps under the sink at the kick plate and in the shower/toilet area. No idea yet on where I will place a switch for that.
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:19 PM   #19
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Hey Westfalia,

Are your cabinet LED lights homebrewed or plug and play? If homebrewed, were you able to use the existing fixtures or did you have to replace them?

They look pretty cool! I might want to emulate what you've done.

Thanks,
jon
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:47 PM   #20
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Toasty, I have a thread detailing the discovery process and my thoughts here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ens-17392.html

In short, no they are manufactured. I learned a long time ago that I can't solder tiny things onto small circuit boards. You would be able to make your own, but I don't know if you could get them to fit in the housing without modification. I wanted a simple plug and play solution that I could easily remove if I ever sold the trailer.
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:00 PM   #21
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Still a bit confused as to the removal process. It looks like some of you are pulling the fixture out of the wall/ceiling to change the bulb. Is this necessary??? Sparky5 had posted this infor some time back:

You simply run your fingernil under the metal rim of the inner circle and the cover will pop out. Then you can remove the bulb- it's a halogen( you can get them at walmart, home depot, even the grocery store) so be careful putting the replacement bulb in. You can't touch it with your bare fingers because the oil in your skin will damage the bulb- use a tissue to hold it when you place it in the slots.
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Old 02-24-2006, 11:08 PM   #22
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Frozen, you are correct. I pulled the fixture out to examine and to get a better shot with the camera.

I can't pull my lenses off with my finger nail; it's way too tight. What I have done is carefully pry the lens off with a jewelers screwdriver. If you have something similar in shape and size but in non scratch plastic, it would be better.

Be carefull pushing the lens back in, and only push on the metal ring, not the glass. I pushed one my glass lenses through the trim ring, and chipped the glass.
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Old 02-25-2006, 12:48 PM   #23
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[quote=RDM16CCD]We've got a Honda generator, I just bought a rapid-charge 3 stage charger, and will add a 2nd battery to make our boondock camping easier.

I'd like to hear your plans for the 2nd battery. I've been looking at somwhow placing one inside to avoid the power loss associated with outside temp.s up here in Alaska in the spring and fall. I wondered if I could modify the drawer under the seat near the door to accomodate a 2nd battery.
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Old 02-25-2006, 01:33 PM   #24
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Hello frozen:
Our trailer is the 16' CCD, and the bigggest constraint we've found is the weight limit. Because of this, our 2nd battery is carried to the campsite in the back of the pickup, and gets set on the ground and hooked to the trailer battery when we get there. For the connection cable, I bought a battery jumper cable at the auto parts store, and crimped a ring terminal on each wire/end, and use the battery terminals with the wing nuts to attach them (most deep cycle batteries I've seen have both the post & wing nut terminals).

I would rather have permanently mounted the 2nd battery on the A frame, but I'm trying to respect the posted weight limit for the trailer, and the extra 50# or so of the 2nd battery is a big chunk of that budget.

We only take the 2nd battery when we're dry camping - the single battery is enough for use while on the road to aa campground with hook ups.

On the 16', the eletrical distribution center is under the RS dinette seat. A/S didn't seem to spend any extra time dressing the wiring as it connects to the various relays and bus bars, but if I wanted to clean this up and route the wiring more carefully, there is room under the seat where the 2nd battery could be mounted. It wouldn't be hard to add terminal connections to the positive and ground cables that come in from the outside mounted battery. If wanting to avoid the task of cleaning up the wiring, it would be easy to mount a 2nd battery on the floor under the dinette table, and create an opening to get to the connection points under the seat.

For flooded lead acid batteries, I think there must be some ventilation so that gases from charging don't create a fire/explosion hazard. But, it wouldn't be hard to switch to a battery with sealed construction - I see threads here where people describe doing this so they can mount batteries inside the trailer.

If I had my way, I would ask for the trailers to be designed so they have a lot more net carrying capacity, so permanently mounting another battery wouldn't be a weight issue. We removed everything in the way of our personal stuff from the trailer, and then weighed everything as it went back in. This convinced us that we needed that extra 50 #, and that's what drove our approach to this.

We had considered having a welding shop fabricate a frame for mounting the extra battery on the A frame, and it looked like there was room. The welder didn't think it would be hard to do, especially if I agreed to do the cleanup and prime/paint tasks afterwards to make it look good. This approach also required the battery cables to be replaced, since the original ones are installed to exactly fit the original Group 24 battery and would not reach even far enough to replace the Group 24 with a Group 27.

How long have you lived in Alaska? I've always had a dream to live there for an entire year, to experience the periods of total dark and total daylight, and to have enough time to do the hiking, fishing, and kayaking that Alaska offers.
Bob
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Old 02-28-2006, 02:21 PM   #25
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Solar Panel

Hello, We have a 2006 Quicksilver with a solar panel and we used a portable
solar p. with our 17ft Casita before the AS. It worked great for us in addition
we used our Honda generator for the Microwave. Might give it a try.
John & Betty.......Sun Valley, Id.
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Old 02-28-2006, 07:26 PM   #26
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Betty:
When I bought my 18' CCD (2005 Model) the solar panels were not an option. It seems like solar would be a great thing when dry camping, so I'm interested in knowing more.

Do you have any info you could share about your setup - was it factory installed, how many watts, where is it mounted, how is the wiring routed to the battery, is there a solar control panel, does the trailer have the standard flooded battery or a sealed battery, etc. Pictures would also be great if you have them!

I thought about trying to retroofit my 16' CCD with solar, any info you can share would help me figure out how to do it and if it's feasible or not.

Thanks!
Bob
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Old 03-04-2006, 11:34 AM   #27
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jon -
I received the bulbs in about 2 days from bulbs.com - outstanding service! I did a trial install of 1 bulb, and you are right on with your comment that 50% fewer watts are not that different to the eye. My trailer is in storage for the winter, so I will convert the rest of the bulbs later this spring when it warms up a bit (30 degrees here today).

I also go the Xpower 40 3 stage battery charger that I ordered this week (40/20/2 amp settings), and it makes a huge difference on recharging the battery (bench test, the battery is in storage for the winter, too). I can't wait for the first dry camping experience this spring.

Thanks for sending the reference to bulbs.com.
Bob
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Old 03-05-2006, 06:58 PM   #28
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My early vote for tip of the year goes to Toasty's Dad/Jon here. The supplier got the new 5W bulbs to me in like 4 days, the bulbs came out and went in as described, and while the power drain may be halved, the light output looks pretty darn near the same. Thanks!
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