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Old 11-15-2009, 12:39 PM   #1
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27 Pt Inspection Results are in! Now what?

We took our new-to-us '97 Limited, "Dimples" to JC for sheet metal repair. (Now that she's repaired, we'll have to come up with a new name.) We decided that while she was there that we'd have the shop give the 27 point inspection. Who knows what could have gone wrong in the first 13 years when she had a different owner?

We just got the results and are pretty pleased that nothing major was wrong. What they did find that needed repair will run us around $600 for labor and parts. I wondering how to cut down on this bill by repairing the issue myself, thus saving the $90 per hour labor charge and saving money on the repair part.

Here's the listing of issues with the repair hours first and part price second.
  • A/C shroud cracked .30 hrs $174.87
  • Power cord has melted prong 1.50 hrs $77.92
  • Rubrail extrusion loose in front area .50 hrs no parts needed
  • Fresh water drain cock needs replaced .50 hrs $2.13
  • Fantastic fan trim ring needs replaced .25 hrs $11.65

My thoughts are that I'll buy a shroud from Icon Technologies for $89 and replace it myself.
Penguin - Dometic Duo-Therm - Air Conditioner Shroud - Icon Technologies Limited

Power cord - Does it really take 1.5 hours to replace? That's $135! Can the common man easily replace the cord? OR, replace male end and keep the cord.

Rubrail Tightening - Will tightening a screw or two tighten the rub rail or is there more involved than this? Where is the rub rail?

Freshwater draincock. Is this more than screwing out the old and screwing in the new with teflon tape?

Fantastic trim ring - I'll buy the part from AS and replace it myself.

I'd really appreciate some experienced knowledge on how to proceed on these few repairs.

Thanks a lot in advance,

JimW
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:26 PM   #2
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JimW,

Welcome. We've certainly started in the right place!

If the rub rail is located between the front battery boxes, this could be a BIG RED FLAG. The rub rail is not a cosmetic issue, it is where the shell is attached to the frame. I would strongly suggest removing the rub rail extrusion and inspecting the rivet line beneath.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:57 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JimW View Post
We took our new-to-us '97 Limited, "Dimples" to JC for sheet metal repair. (Now that she's repaired, we'll have to come up with a new name.) We decided that while she was there that we'd have the shop give the 27 point inspection. Who knows what could have gone wrong in the first 13 years when she had a different owner?

We just got the results and are pretty pleased that nothing major was wrong. What they did find that needed repair will run us around $600 for labor and parts. I wondering how to cut down on this bill by repairing the issue myself, thus saving the $90 per hour labor charge and saving money on the repair part.

Here's the listing of issues with the repair hours first and part price second.
  • A/C shroud cracked .30 hrs $174.87
  • Power cord has melted prong 1.50 hrs $77.92
  • Rubrail extrusion loose in front area .50 hrs no parts needed
  • Fresh water drain cock needs replaced .50 hrs $2.13
  • Fantastic fan trim ring needs replaced .25 hrs $11.65

My thoughts are that I'll buy a shroud from Icon Technologies for $89 and replace it myself.
Penguin - Dometic Duo-Therm - Air Conditioner Shroud - Icon Technologies Limited

Power cord - Does it really take 1.5 hours to replace? That's $135! Can the common man easily replace the cord? OR, replace male end and keep the cord.

Rubrail Tightening - Will tightening a screw or two tighten the rub rail or is there more involved than this? Where is the rub rail?

Freshwater draincock. Is this more than screwing out the old and screwing in the new with teflon tape?

Fantastic trim ring - I'll buy the part from AS and replace it myself.

I'd really appreciate some experienced knowledge on how to proceed on these few repairs.

Thanks a lot in advance,

JimW
Are you saying they found nothing wrong with the tires, brakes, bearing pack, grease seals, shocks, axles, and wheel balancing?

How about the exterior gaskets, especially the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets that only last 2 to 3 years?

Andy
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:52 PM   #4
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Andy, new axles were installed, so that may be why axle related items were not mentioned. I will double check on the seal, however. Thanks so much.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:26 PM   #5
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What they did find that needed repair will run us around $600 for labor and parts. I wondering how to cut down on this bill by repairing the issue myself, thus saving the $90 per hour labor charge and saving money on the repair part.
As a contractor, I have to say I've seen plenty of do-it-yourself money saving suggestions like yours; it always costs more for the pros to re-fix the problem the second time.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:55 PM   #6
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Andy, new axles were installed, so that may be why axle related items were not mentioned. I will double check on the seal, however. Thanks so much.
How about the running gear balance.

Surely the factory would offer that service since I know they have the equipment.

Andy
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:33 PM   #7
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Power cord - Does it really take 1.5 hours to replace? That's $135! Can the common man easily replace the cord? OR, replace male end and keep the cord.
As long as the rest of the cord is in good shape, you can replace the plug.

Quote:

Freshwater draincock. Is this more than screwing out the old and screwing in the new with teflon tape?
Generally, that's about it. If the tank is full of water, it would probably be a very good idea to drain it first--or wear a bathing suit.
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Fantastic trim ring - I'll buy the part from AS and replace it myself.
Call Fantastic, they'll probably send you a new part free.
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:41 PM   #8
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How about the running gear balance.

Surely the factory would offer that service since I know they have the equipment.

Andy
Andy, you are so discerning, there is no escaping. I ordered 5000# axels for the unit so we could load more than 600# of personal gear into our unit. I chose the factory because they had the aligning equipment, expertise, and whatever else is needed.

JimW
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:57 AM   #9
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ie: the cord --- Its takes two to tangle, if you have a dedicated outlet etc. where the overheating occurred replacing the socket, or checking any extension socket ever used with the cord is in order.

I'd be interested to see a photo showing the condemned "melted plug" trouble spot?
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Old 11-16-2009, 11:47 AM   #10
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Hi JimW,

These items are easily addressed. If you're somewhat handy and willing to do the work yourself you can save yourself some money and learn somethings about your AS in the process.

Most of this is simple maintenance stuff, but the loose rub rail and melted power plug should be looked at a bit closer to make sure there are no underlying issues that created the condition to begin with.

Regards,

Kevin
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