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Old 06-24-2017, 07:06 PM   #1
Rich and Kat
 
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2017 Classic - Drawers on the Floor

So, I went to get the trailer out of storage to de-winterize it ... I drove it to a nearby campground and when I opened her up, the drawer under the refrigerator was on the floor ... it only contains lightweight, collapsible plastic/silicone bowls and lids. I didn't think anything of it since I needed to get the drawer out to ensure I reconnected the plumbing on the water pump before firing it up; I actually blamed myself for somehow failing to properly reinstall the drawer. Then I noticed this little piece of plastic on the floor. I looked at it and wondered. "Geez ... could this be a little roller-thingy from one of the slides?" I set it aside and didn't think about it. Got the camper de-winterized and used it for a few days, on and off. Then took it back to storage.

This time, when I got to storage, it was the drawer under the microwave (which is loaded much heavier) that wound up on the floor, but this time, the slide actually hard-broke ... the slide that attaches to the drawer disconnected from the mounted support rail. Dammit.

I did a quick measurement and found that the mounted rail is 19" long. Accuride makes good slides (3135EC Eclipse Soft-Close) ... but they only come 18" and 20".

My problem: if I use the 18" slide with rear-mount clips, I'm concerned that my custom-drawer insert won't allow me to open the drawer far enough to get the nested MAGMA pot set out.

So, my question to you all. Any thoughts on an alternative quality heavy-duty slide? I'm thinking I might change all of the slides out so I don't have to deal with this nonsense. Thanks much ...
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:01 PM   #2
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Hi

Just curious - why not get it fixed under warranty?

Bob
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:51 PM   #3
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Airstream replaces the broken parts with new identical break prone parts. They use one staple versus screws. Hard to believe how Airstream cuts corners on a $150,000+ Classic.

We have the solid Hickory cabinets in our 2014 Classic and added screws into every hole in the slides and they have stayed attached. The two screws the factory put in were inadequate. We also got rid of all the plastic catches for brass pinned ball catches that are way less expensive than the plastic ones from Airstream. We used these same catches on our 2015 23D as well.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Hardware...=3,41399,41405
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi
Just curious - why not get it fixed under warranty?
Bob
Good question, Bob. I'm a bit disappointed that Airstream uses the lowest quality parts available on the planet, in one of the more expensive travel trailers on the planet... I figured that as stuff breaks, I'd just do it the way it should have been done the first time... Accuride slides use steel bearings ... and you pay for them but they should last a lifetime. I think I have 6 slides that I'd need to replace. I'll have to go to the storage unit tomorrow and measure them all...

Switz, staples vs. screws ... in a new Airstream ... Who'da'thunk, right!?!? That's like using 110V electrical outlets with push-on wire splice connections. That said, we continue to perpetuate this kind of nonsense because we keep buying these trailers.

I'm amazed at how many people in the parks say how well-made Airstreams are. I can't agree. The devil is in the details ... with that said, when we make the requisite repairs with quality components (new converters, new slides, new electrical outlets, new catches, etc. ...) we'll have awesome trailers that will surely outlast all SOB's...
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:47 PM   #5
Rich and Kat
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
Airstream replaces the broken parts with new identical break prone parts. They use one staple versus screws. Hard to believe how Airstream cuts corners on a $150,000+ Classic.

We have the solid Hickory cabinets in our 2014 Classic and added screws into every hole in the slides and they have stayed attached. The two screws the factory put in were inadequate. We also got rid of all the plastic catches for brass pinned ball catches that are way less expensive than the plastic ones from Airstream. We used these same catches on our 2015 23D as well.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Hardware...=3,41399,41405
Switz, which size did you go with? Thanks, Rich
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:40 AM   #6
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This is what amazes me about the manufacturing process of Airstreams and other RVs, nothing is constant.

Our slides on our 2017 Classic, screwed in, not stapled. The drawer under our microwave opened on one leg of a trip, slides did not break. I simply took industrial velcro and now use the drawer as an exercise for my wife as it's held in place extremely tight.

Another example of inconsistent process; I replaced our stock converter, a number of people doing so on the 2017 Classics told me there was a 110 plug in back of the converter box. My son and I opened there area and noted the stock converter was hard wired, I assured him that there was a plug back there - nope, no plug. So, we hard wired the new one in as well. My guess, unskilled labor installing and hardwiring the converters was not working out too well, so put a plug in.

Bud
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Old 06-25-2017, 05:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIRHEDS View Post
Switz, which size did you go with? Thanks, Rich
I'd also like to learn what size etc for these latches. We've had the drawers slide open also, nothing broken yet.
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Old 06-25-2017, 05:31 AM   #8
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Undermount, soft closing slides are the high end product used in residential applications, so RV manufactures think they equate to quality. The problem is residential applications don't usually roll down the road... A good California earthquake will slide then open too.

Two ways to correct it, side mount slides have a much stronger hold close mechanism, so you would need to replace them all after verifying there is proper space on the sides to do so.
The other and easier way, is to mount normal door catch magnets on the back of the frame with the strike plates on the back of the drawer, one in either corner should be enough to hold them closed or there are heavy duty ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M...SBSE9503R5FGEG
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:42 AM   #9
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What have experiences been with the overhead storage bins opening during travel?
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Old 06-25-2017, 12:26 PM   #10
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Possible fix?

What about installing child safety latches to the drawers? We are newbies. Have had our 2017 Classic in our backyard to get familiar and try to take care of little QC issues as we discover them. I'd like to avoid this drawer slide problem, so we're going to install the latches. An ounce of prevention .... Hopefully it'll do the trick.
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Old 06-25-2017, 12:48 PM   #11
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Drawers on floor is a common occurrence unfortunately, due to the shoddy materials and lack of quality control on many new Airstreams.



Search results for "drawers on floor" disclose dozens of instances:

https://www.google.com/search?ei=igR....0.JewmyqqVUBo

We installed surface mounted strap eyes and rig bungee cords over all cabinet doors and drawers.

Peter
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:55 PM   #12
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So it turns out ...

... that Airstream did a reasonable job on the slides. I went back to the storage lot and measured the rest of my slides. JC actually installed blum Tandem Plus slides--which is actually a pretty good slide. Unfortunately, JC chose not to include the Blumotion (soft-close) option, which are approx. $9/slide more expensive ($26 vs. $35 w/soft-close). But I just wanted to set the record straight that they at least didn't use much less inferior slides. Too bad they didn't spend a couple of bucks more for the soft-close option.

I'm going to install soft-close slides on the two main drawers that I mentioned as well as adding some brass ball/catch hardware that Switz recommended. I'm also ordering 5/8" magnet cup sets to my order for anything else that pops open... The 4 drawers at the rear of the camper will get some kind of rod across them to keep them from popping open ... I can't justify changing those slides out because the drawers are usually empty until we get to the campsite, at which time, we fill them ... then empty them when we depart.

Take care,
Rich
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:58 PM   #13
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Smile Preventing doors from sliding in transit.

We have started using adjustable curtain rods placed vertical through the drawers handles from floor to counter. No more catastrophic events. Also use them in the cabinets at an angle to great success.
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:41 PM   #14
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Rolling Vibrating Table...

Quality of building versus product retail cost is a constant battle. Every item that goes into a Airstream is always a battle to keep them affordable in the RV marketplace. They could use solid wood all over the interiors and raise the weight - and price! Guess what: Less folks would want (or could) afford the AS. Not to mention NEEDING a bigger towing rig. We are creating much vibration as we travel along with a bouncy trailer; face it, our roads and infrastructure is raggedy in a lot of America's great expanse of roadways. Your trailer is bouncing AND twisting every mile it's moving. Mega buck toys demand cash to keep in service - ask of those that finally sold their toy.
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:54 PM   #15
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I'm thinking of retrofitting cabinets with these. Especially the one with the microwave.
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Old 06-25-2017, 05:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I'm thinking of retrofitting cabinets with these. Especially the one with the microwave.
This is a nice idea but I don't believe it will work with the drawers. The lock not only needs to penetrate through the depth of the drawer face, but it also needs to hook behind the face-frame. If they're available 1-1/2" (or so) long, then that could work. Even better, if there was a keyless option for those of us not interested in "security" per se...
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Old 06-25-2017, 07:54 PM   #17
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On our maiden voyage, 9K miles from Seattle to & from the WVA rally last summer, we found our microwave had migrated from its cabinet to the floor --- twice. Our solution was not so much worrying about the cabinet fasteners but about the vibration in the trailer under tow. Our solution was to buy an AirSafe hitch, basically an airbag that dampens out the trailer's vertical oscillations. Problem solved --- no more vertical migrations, from cabinet to floor.
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIRHEDS View Post
... that Airstream did a reasonable job on the slides. I went back to the storage lot and measured the rest of my slides. JC actually installed blum Tandem Plus slides--which is actually a pretty good slide. Unfortunately, JC chose not to include the Blumotion (soft-close) option, which are approx. $9/slide more expensive ($26 vs. $35 w/soft-close). But I just wanted to set the record straight that they at least didn't use much less inferior slides. Too bad they didn't spend a couple of bucks more for the soft-close option.

I'm going to install soft-close slides on the two main drawers that I mentioned as well as adding some brass ball/catch hardware that Switz recommended. I'm also ordering 5/8" magnet cup sets to my order for anything else that pops open... The 4 drawers at the rear of the camper will get some kind of rod across them to keep them from popping open ... I can't justify changing those slides out because the drawers are usually empty until we get to the campsite, at which time, we fill them ... then empty them when we depart.

Take care,
Rich
Word of caution, before spending too much, the soft close are what I was referring to, I didn't realize they didn't already use them, you may just want to get 1 and try it, they are not designed for hold strength and are used in other RVs and have the same flying open issue. If you use them on that Magna draw beware. If you do try them, do not use the 1/4" clip screws in the front clips, use the longest ones the draw face can take, as they will RIP out when the draw slides open.
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:15 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I'm thinking of retrofitting cabinets with these. Especially the one with the microwave.
If that's the lock used on the outside storage compartments, they are junk.

On our last Airstream (22 Sport) it got stuck locked shut. Turns out that is a common issue. We had a locksmith work on it for about 45 minutes and he got it to open and re-cut keys that were double sided. His opinion was that the original failure was due to the key fitting and turning the tumbler in both the incorrect, and correct position. However, about 3 months after this correction was made, I mistakenly inserted the wrong key into the lock and the whole locking chamber pulled out with the key.

We don't put any faith in those locks.

If you wanted a physical latch to use, I would recommend one that turns and holds, but would not bother with the keyed part.
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:20 AM   #20
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Our "Keep It Simple Stu" solution is surface-mounted strap eyes and bungee cords to keep all cabinet doors and drawers closed during towing. This is a user-friendly, low maintenance solution, which even a child can rig up. Only two bungees are shown below. The closet and fridge get some also, as does the exterior main entry suicide door on our FC20.

Visually, some folks balk . . .

This setup works every time.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Click on arrow in quote below to see more photos and installation details.




[click on arrow in quote to go to the 20-footer thread and see more photos]
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Here you go. I changed the plan a bit and eliminated the long bungee.

A disclaimer first -- I don't mind exposed hardware if the finish and design are good.
. . .
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