2005 Safari A/C and Water Heater Issues

[cassidylee]

Thanks for allowing me to join the forum. My wife and I have sold our home and are about to start full timing in our 2005 Safari (we will be homeless on Friday!) aI have a few issues I was hoping to find some help with. First, my A/C does work -- it won't even come on. The heating element in the A/C housing works (comes on when I turn the thermostat up), but no fan and no A/C. The fuse is good, but the light beneath the fuse does not glow red when it is removed. Second, the furnace is not working -- no indication as to why, it simply doesn't come on. And third, the hot water heater was working, but suddenly quit. The switch in the bathroom that is used to ignite it (the one that glows red for a few minutes before it is lit) doesn't come on anymore. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cassidy

[rmkrum]

Check that you have 12 volt power. All these things need 12 volts to operate properly.

[cassidylee]

I'm hooked up to shore power, so I would assume that -- if I'm not getting 12V power -- that I have a converter problem. Any advice for how to check that?

[rodsterinfl]

Check to make sure the coach power switch is set to USE not STORE. see Howie's post below on battery.

The fan and compressor are two different items so it might be your starter relay/capacitor is bad. These age over time and often are what fails. You might start there. Find out what model of AC unit you have and call Dometic or whatever brand to get the updated part number that you need. My '06 capacitor was updated from original, more beefy unit. On many units there is a start AND a run capacitor. You have to be VERY careful doing anything with these as they STORE electrical charge.

Your hot water heater is most likely LP-only so you have to have gas and do not turn it on without water in the tank. When you switch it on there is a red light that will come on. It will go out if it does not start (burner does not light). There are valves for water flow that have to be set correctly for use (just in case someone winterized it) check your manual for open/close of valves. Make sure you have LP in the tank. Use the stove burner as a check to see and run it a bit to bleed your system too.

The furnace is also LP so gas in the tank is important. It will just kick off if no gas is present. Fan on for a bit then off or even no fan. The fan part is electrical and will run off of battery or electric.

Make sure you are plugged into 30 amp electric that is using your three-prong big cord rather than a regular house plug with adapter when trying to run the AC especially. An 11K unit can be run on regular AC but not when the converter is running and charging.

[HowieE]

Use a meter to check the batteries while on and off shore power.
You should see above 13 volts while on shore power, that proves the convertor, and above 12 volts while off shore power.

Check the connections at the battery that they are tight and clean. If you put a wrench on the batteries disconnect the 2 negative terminals before you touch the 2 positive terminals. Failure to approach this way can realy cause a problem if you short out the positive side.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by cassidylee

I'm hooked up to shore power, so I would assume that -- if I'm not getting 12V power -- that I have a converter problem. Any advice for how to check that?

If your lights work, you have 12 volts from either the batteries or converter, or both. Also your monitor panel should tell you whether you have 12 volts or not. If not, either your batteries are dead, your converter isn't working, or your STORE/USE switch is OFF or isn't working. In the USE mode your lights and other 12V stuff should work with or without shore power. In the STORE mode they will only work with shore power; the batteries are disconnected.

The water heater requires 12V to work from propane. The furnace requires 12V for the blower, control board, and gas valve. Depending on your AC and thermostat, you may need 12V to get the AC working.

You mentioned fuses. The AC operates from a circuit breaker in your AC distribution panel which is located with the DC fuse panel. Check for tripped circuit breakers. IF in doubt, turn each one OFF and then back ON.

How do you know the heating element in the AC works? You say the fan does not work. Do you mean it doesn't work in either mode? It should work in both heat and cool. If the fan doesn't work at all, DO NOT leave the heat on as it will damage the unit if the heat isn't carried away by the fan. My (2001) Safari had an AC unit with the heat strips, but it wasn't controlled by the thermostat, which was part of the AC unit. If you have the type with a wall mounted thermostat, you may need to reset the thermostat to get everything to work.

This is kinda shotgunning as it sounds like you may have multiple problems. Did they all come on at once? Has this stuff ever worked?

Al

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by cassidylee

I'm hooked up to shore power, so I would assume that -- if I'm not getting 12V power -- that I have a converter problem. Any advice for how to check that?

Does your trailer have any 12 volt power outlets in it?

If so, consider a plug in DC monitor available at car parts places.

Plug it in and digital DC voltage readout.

[cassidylee]

Update: Everything works now. How? I have no idea. I was meeting a repairman there today and when I arrived I tried everything out one more time and it all came on and worked properly. The repairman suggested that it may have been a loose power connection, or simply because the camper hadn't been used in a while. Regardless, I'm happy. Thanks for all the advice, though it was all above my level of knowledge, it's nice to know so many people out there are willing to help out.

One more thing: I don't have a microwave. Any suggestions for what I should get? Any that I should stay away from? Not necessarily looking for one specifically made or designed for campers. Thanks again, Cassidy

[rodsterinfl]

Hmm. You had a widespread outage with various appliances not working. It would have to be a common-to-all solution. You need to find out what it was so if it happens again you are not stumped.

Where is your microwave spot? I have a stove and oven in mine and would never give it up as it provides a gas solution for cooking when boon docking. That said, mine is next to the sink and pantry. Some models are above the fridge. You would have to measure the spot and realize that it will have to be smaller than the space for airflow. Avoid a convection since to do it right, you have to install a heat barrier in either of those spots and venting of some sort if done correctly. If you plan to replace the oven then a convection in that location may work. Otherwise, I suggest, after buying three microwaves, a higher output unit. My preference is Panasonic. Their inverter technology is great as it cooks with more than on/off like other brands. It actually lowers the intensity during the "on" cycle versus just shortening the "full on" time. If that does not make sense read their description:
http://shop.panasonic.com/microwave-...icrowave-ovens
Their units with sensors are fantastic but the one that fit in my Airstream was a non-sensor model. I have never found a better brand than Panasonic for microwaves because of their patent and simmer ability versus zapping. I often cook with a microwave (when on electric) BTW many different foods- fish, etc. fantastic. Same thing for their flash oven which is often on a waiting list to get. I ended up with a Panasonic NN-SD372SR inverter but no sensor. It has 950 watts and is small but still fits a plate inside. Don't buy anything less than 700 watts. Even warming takes longer with those. Microwaves are best around 1000 watts. Then again, if all you do is heat up left overs, then you do not need too much. They have them with all kinds of features, grill, etc., but size will limit features. They also have a portable induction grill oven now. Very innovative company.