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Old 06-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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1975 27' Overlander
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Extra trim?

Way to go! We have the same trailer. Did you end up with any left over 1 inch yellow plastic trim insert? I need a piece to go around the perimeter of the bathroom.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:19 PM   #16
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Way to go! We have the same trailer. Did you end up with any left over 1 inch yellow plastic trim insert? I need a piece to go around the perimeter of the bathroom.
FWIW I am pretty sure that was white trim to start with.

Once it turns yellow it gets very brittle. I haven't decided what I am going to do with my bath yet, paint it or live with it.

Aaron
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:16 AM   #17
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I am wondering the same thing. I am looking into the MEK plastic goo welding method for repairing some of the cracked pieces of plastic. I was also wondering if the plastic is yellowed all the way through or just on the surface? could it be polished back to a whiter state?
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #18
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Plastics

Hi! Nice project you have going on there.
The plastic trim that slides into the aluminum channel is white. I bought a roll of it for my 72. When I finished the renovations of the bath, I could not get the new insert to slide into the aluminum. I tried wetting it, lubing it, heating it all with no good results.
I used 3M semi rigid plastic repair kit to fix the cracks on the ABS plastic tub and sink. It works very well.
The yellowing is just on the surface and can be removed with hydrogen peroxide solution called Retr0Bright. Read this thread for how to. I had the plastics repainted in my 72 because there were deep stains in the plastic and I needed to cover up the crack repairs.
Good luck on your project.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #19
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Ok it looks like I have been laying down on the job but in truth i have just been neglecting this thread. Due to the fact that I have been spending so much time on these two.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...rce-92992.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ace-92720.html

but the Frame is ready for a clean and a paint. (por 15) and the new axles have arrived

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rhAKEU_hYE...2-52-20_30.jpg
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:07 PM   #20
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So I have the frame finished and painted with POR 15. My questions for those who have gone before me.
1. should I put the bellyskin on while I have it upside down? (If I do it will make the floor harder to install.)
2. Most of my belly skin was missing should it be one continuous sheet from the water tank back to bumper? or is there some sort of separation for the waste tanks?
3. anything else I should do while the frame is upside down?
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:38 PM   #21
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loads happening this week with the restoration. got the waste tank pans made up and tanks installed. got the new floor laid down and got the top back on. take a look.

http://197519751975airstream.blogspot.com
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:25 AM   #22
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Can anyone jog my memory on what size bolts attach through the outriggers to the shell? I think they were 1/4 20's but I cannot remember.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:12 AM   #23
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I can't help you out with the bolts, but wow!, have you moved along! Keep up all the great work!
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Can anyone jog my memory on what size bolts attach through the outriggers to the shell? I think they were 1/4 20's but I cannot remember.
Yes, they are 1/4" 20. Nice work!
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #25
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Ok since the last posts the project has been moving along slowly. I am starting to worry that I will not get her back together by summer break.

I got all the windows re sealed except the vista views waiting on shimmed bytle tape to come for those. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-obwH4wGbTF...-45-12_311.jpg

I also go the tail lights re sealed
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cNzDuavUD0...-52-29_748.jpg
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:39 PM   #26
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I got the new door seal put on but the door dose not close against the door jam in the top right hand corner? Any one have any suggestions on how to bend that corner back in?

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6GGUhxrHb...-26-04_835.jpg
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:43 PM   #27
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The buck rivets that I replaced the leaking olympic rivets with are also leaking. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Y0dFaEpkE...-16-37_779.jpg

Do you think I need to drill them out and start again or might they just need to be tightened up? I did try to buck them by myself by reaching through the window hole with the bucking bar. (for future reference this did not go well).
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by dkrukosky View Post
The buck rivets that I replaced the leaking olympic rivets with are also leaking. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Y0dFaEpkE...-16-37_779.jpg

Do you think I need to drill them out and start again or might they just need to be tightened up? I did try to buck them by myself by reaching through the window hole with the bucking bar. (for future reference this did not go well).
If the old holes were overdrilled a bit, that could be the problem. Do you check that the tail has been properly flattened with one of those "gauges"/ pieces of metal with indents for various size rivets.

If it were me, I would normally just slap some Trempro on the back side and not worry about it. Unfortunately, given that location I would drill them out and do it over again.

I agree with your experience, bucking by yourself never works out. I produce 10x more smiley face patterns and crooked tails when I try to buck and rivet at the same time. For those spots, I would enlist a friend.
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