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Old 09-14-2015, 05:20 PM   #1
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Denver , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
1972 21' Globetrotter

Hello,
So i picked up this old Airstream about a month ago.



I was going to strip the 1/3rd of the interior that was still inside and just build a bed and cabinets/counter tops/couch and ext.



Then realized that there were more dead mice in the insulation than i could have ever imagined.





As well as the rear subfloor under the bathroom is completely shot.



Replacing the rear subfloor now.


At this point i need recommendations (assurance) as to what should i buy in terms of:
-Converter
-Inverter
-battery
-200 watt solar panel set up

I have an electrician friend that is going to help me do a more or less complete rewire.

We are planning on, but not limited to:
-LED lighting.
-12v car stereo
-two burner ignitor
-tankless water heater (also looking for recommendations)
-4 or 5 110v outlets
-12v water pump
-No shower or toilet

Marine style wood burning stove

I know its all been gone over on this site, but this is faster and more direct this way. Also i wanted to start a "build feed"

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,
Harland
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Old 09-14-2015, 06:02 PM   #2
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 242
welcome, looks familiar to what Pam and I faced with our 72 23' Safari, check out our project. have fun

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f420...ted-98384.html
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:29 PM   #3
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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Consider dropping the belly pan, probably full of mice as well. You want to make sure the belly pan is well sealed, no gaps larger than. 1/8". To keep the mice out. Need to ensure the rear where the drain piping is is sealed well too. And if you look on the a frame in front of the jack post, the 2 frame rails end and are open, easy entry to the belly for mice as well. If the mice can get in the belly they can get anywhere.
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Old 09-15-2015, 01:26 PM   #4
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Denver , Colorado
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Ok started pulling the bumper, in order to pull the corroded belly pan.
its in real bad shape under there.



Looks like the mice chewed up all the insulation under the subfloor, and it all probably blew out on the various trips made by the PO.



Besides the rear board, the wood is in pretty good shape.
The belly pan probably needs to be replaced.




Im having a hard time getting the back subfloor board out due to the body sagging all the way to the frame rails.
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:55 PM   #5
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1951 21' Flying Cloud
Sacramento , California
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I had the same problem. The shell will flex back up with a bottle jack and some lumber. Just place it under a rib and raise it gently as you can so as not to bend the rib. If you're taking out the entire subfloor it's also a good idea to build some bracing to keep the shell from flexing in ways you don't want it to.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:30 PM   #6
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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There's a hold down plate/angle iron that goes across the back sandwiched between the rear shell and wrapping under the back of the wood floor but above the last cross member. It'll block the wood coming out the rear if it's still there.
Consider pulling up the floor from the inside.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:37 PM   #7
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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That rear cross member definitely needs to be replaced. You can get someone local to do it. Use same thickness sheet metal and have it bent on a brake to same height and width giving you a solid piece all the way across, giving you a tall c. Then cut out the holes for pipes to go through. Helps seal up the rear from mice.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:41 PM   #8
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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That sheet of aluminum that's slid in above the rear frame rails and under the floor. Get it out of there. One of the big causes of rot back there. Water goes down rear shell hits it and flows/wicks forward to the wood floor. Most refer to it as anti flashing.
Rear rot is very common!
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:44 PM   #9
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
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Here's one post on the rear and ideas,

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...ign-23121.html
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:26 PM   #10
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Denver , Colorado
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Well i had my local metal shop bend this C channel for me. I welded it in today and POR-15 tomorrow then new floor on Thursday.



Also ordered my new inverter: Samlex PST-1000-12 Pure Sine Inverter

And a new converter: PowerMax PM4B-60 (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)

These were recomended by Randy at Bestconverter.com
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:06 AM   #11
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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Looks good. You can weld I'm jealous.
Plans for the dent? Lower right.

How was the tank support pan for the back? If you make it end at the bottom of the new flange it helps keep water and mice out.

Randy's a very good source.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:11 AM   #12
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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For your solar try to get in touch with lewster on the forums. Check out amsolar.com for good info.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:53 PM   #13
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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Hi, I have a 71 GT and live in Arvada, see the link below for my never ending project.
Welcome to the forums
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:41 AM   #14
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Denver , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Hi, I have a 71 GT and live in Arvada, see the link below for my never ending project.
Welcome to the forums
Wow amazing thread!!
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