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Old 09-30-2013, 10:51 AM   #1
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1970 Overlander

Hi I have a chance to buy a 1970 Overlander for 1000 dollars, it has two holes in the front floor but the rest of the floor is solid, can I get your opinion if you take the risk on it. It has normal wear and a small dent in the back. The locks would have to be drilled out because the keys have been lost, how bad would that be? My dad's a master electrician, plumber and hvac mechanic and he said he would help me on it any way he could. Also one window is cracked and would need replaced. I'm sure the old furnace and water heater would need replaced along with fixing the dent in the back. I'm willing to put the work in, but I'd like some advice from more experienced individuals on this matter. Thanks Very Much! It's been a dream of mine to own one of these.

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Old 09-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #2
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It sounds to be in better shape than the one I paid far more for. If you have the budget and are willing to put in the time and energy, go for it. There are several posts on re-doing 1970's Airstream. Mine is here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f305...ml#post1345708
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:19 AM   #3
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My biggest concern is making it to my house in the current condition. I am hoping the axles are solid. I noticed the worst part I noticed was where the step comes down the side panels beside the steps are rusted with holes in the panel beneath the aluminum wrap. I don't know if this is a major concern or not. To bad I can't take the belly off to see before I purchase.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:30 AM   #4
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How far are you going to have to haul it? That will make a big difference in whether to pull it or tailer it.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:43 AM   #5
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It's about 30 miles. I have a friend that said he would tow it for me but I do t want to damage the trailer or his vehicle in the transport. How does the tongue look to you?

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Old 09-30-2013, 12:20 PM   #6
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Looks like a lot of surface rust. I towed my 66 home 50 miles from a field where it had sat. I just made sure the tires were up, and drove 30 mph the whole way.
Also you might need some attachable towing lights for the back end.
Go for it. It will be a project though you can bet on it.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #7
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Does anyone have any input on the panels next to the steps, that have holes underneath the aluminum the size of quarters is this a bad sign to what could be underneath? I know you can replace the step but what about the panels underneath the aluminum wrap? Also one of the windows is cracked can you take it to a widow shop with the frame and have it replaced? Another photo is attached below. Thanks!

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Old 09-30-2013, 01:34 PM   #8
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I just bought the exact year and model as this one you are considering...mine was missing 3 windows and some floor rot and I paid a lot more than 1000 bucks! I wouldn't hesitate to jump on a bargain like that! As far as towing it, 30 miles isn't far...I towed mine from Mississippi to Tx with weather cracked tires. Just air them up and maybe throw a spare in the truck bed. You will be replacing tires eventually so you might consider stopping at a tire shop along the route home and have some new ones installed. If you go that route, call first so they can have them in stock and ready for your arrival. This will be a challenge but you will enjoy the adventure...and when you're done have such great satisfaction of your accomplishment. Warn the family now, you will have a love affair with this trailer!
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:37 PM   #9
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The holes in the belly pan are easily fixed. Just drill out the rivets, get some fender washers larger than the holes. Then install with new rivets.
Since your dad is handy. Have him make some washers out of a non metallic material the same size or larger than the fender washers. Place the non metallic washer between the fender washer and the skin on the trailer. The non metallic washers will cut down on the electrolysis between the fender washer (steel) and the aluminum skin.
The rust on the outriggers on each side of the step is pretty normal. In most cases, it is surface rust like that on the tongue. It can be cleaned up and painted.
If you don't plan to travel in the coach there is no need to replace the axles. Even new axles will stiffen up if the trailer just sits in one place for years on end.
30 miles is no big deal. Just go slow. Make sure the coach is hitched properly. You won't damage the TV, especially if it is a 1/2 ton or larger truck.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:09 PM   #10
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Try every way possible before 'drilling' out the locks....
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:35 PM   #11
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What about the locks? How hard is it to replace the locks since the individual does not have the keys for the trailer? I'll probably have to drill out the current ones to get the compartments open.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil View Post
What about the locks? How hard is it to replace the locks since the individual does not have the keys for the trailer? I'll probably have to drill out the current ones to get the compartments open.
Attachment 196766
I assume you have access to inside the trailer. Some of the compartment doors and locks can be accessed from inside the trailer. Large nut on the back of the latch to remove the lock cylinder. The locks are all the same. Take the cylinder to a locksmith.
Don't mess around with the main door latch if you don't have to. Parts can be had but can be very expensive.

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Old 09-30-2013, 03:33 PM   #13
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What do you think about the crinkle in the rear end? Can it be fixed? Attached below is the crinkle, it's the only bad thing on the exterior. Other than the missing outer cover.

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Old 09-30-2013, 04:32 PM   #14
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Can be fixed and yes it is a bargain you will have more than the asking price in parts and scrap value. But I am voting fix it you will have a blast!
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