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Old 10-07-2013, 10:25 AM   #71
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1970 27' Overlander
Elkins , wv
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It rained hard here today and I wanted to see if I had any leaks, it appears I only have one leak that is coming off the sliding shade for the street side top vista view window but I can't really tell if the top of the window is leaking or it is something on top of the trailer running down the inner wall, no other leaks are detected during my break at work..I'll check for more tonight, it has rained pretty hard here today. Any possible suggestions? I took a latter and looked but didn't see anything that would cause alarm on the top of the Overlander.
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #72
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Woodstock , Georgia
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you ,at some point, will want to seal ALL the seams. It is not hard to get this done and will save a lot of grief. You can't really trace the leaks, they run in one spot and end up somewhere else.

I use Vulkem or Parbond or Gutter seal. I buy the large animal syringe to squeeze the stuff into tight seams. Also you can use blue painters tape to lay out over the arrea to be seamed which will keep the stuff looking clean and straighter.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:44 AM   #73
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1970 27' Overlander
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Quick question, my airstream is very oxidized and polishing just isn't helping to the extent needed. What can I use to remove this! I've used mother aluminum polish but nothing, would it be safe to try 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper like body shops use on paint the polish or would that cause scratches? Or do you guys know of anything I could get that would doped up this process? I'm 7 hours in and only toe Corner of one panel looks decent but not the best.. Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:31 AM   #74
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1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso , Texas
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Hey Mitch
Have you already removed the clear coat? There are much better polishing products than mothers. You should do a search for polishing on the forums.
You can also do a search for you tube videos and or check out www.perfectpolish.com
Good luck
Mike
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:18 PM   #75
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1970 27' Overlander
Elkins , wv
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I haven't removed the clear, I tried aircraft remover but it didn't seem to even touch some of the spots where it appears the clear is still left.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:42 PM   #76
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1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch54 View Post
I haven't removed the clear, I tried aircraft remover but it didn't seem to even touch some of the spots where it appears the clear is still left.
youll need to get all the clear off before you polish. I've heard the aircraft paint remover works well.
When in doubt I always read up on it here.
Mike
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:30 PM   #77
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I looked in my parts, and wasn't able to find the old thermostat. Sorry.
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:47 PM   #78
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Newport , North Carolina
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Try citrus strip from home depot. Follow the instructions and it should work well many use it including me!
Cliff
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:24 PM   #79
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Hopkins , Minnesota
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I used both Citristrip and Aircraft Paint Stripper. Put it on, leave it and then remove with a high pressure pressure washer. Even then, you may find some shiny streaks left behind...something in the metal that will have to be polished out. If you want a high shine, you will probably eventually need a Cyclo. For now, a low rpm wool pad on a drill or grinder will probably do. Search the forum for types of polish to use. Or order some from Vintage Trailer Supply. But if you want the corrosion gone, you must remove the clear coat.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #80
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wow 7 Hours in and you have been polishing the clear coat...
Truly polishing should be the last thing on the to do list.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:18 PM   #81
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Actually you almost have to polish before you seal the seams or you will smear the caulk all over the place.
Cliff
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:38 PM   #82
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1970 27' Overlander
Elkins , wv
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Hey Guys! Just wanted to give everyone an update on the 70 Overlander. We finally got all the lights to work on the exterior other than the light over the door after finding a few shorts and various other little things. I have replaced all the exterior running lights with LEDS and replaced the bulbs in the brake, tail and backup lights. I have grinded and resealed and painted the tongue. We have removed the sink, burners and all cabinets back to the oven and bed area. I have removed the floor back to the door along with the lower wall back to that point also. My buddy is working on refurbishing the furance and he said it should work like brand new when completed. We are going to start on replacing the floor in the front 1/3 of the Overlander this weekend. As much as I hate to say it, I am thinking about removing everyting on the interior including the rear bathroom just to insure the soundness of the unit. I have not seen any floor rot even in the bathroom until the rear hatch is opened and and boom, the rear flooring that extends past the bathroom to the battery box is rotten but its completely solid in the bathroom. My biggest concern is that the rear endcap will come apart in pieces. Well lets just say it is brittle enough to break under any instances. My dilema is how to replace that end cap I can get a new bath unit, toliet and sink with no problem but my big concern is the skin for the walls, I am not familar if they sell panels of the skin anywhere or not? Any advice? Should I be this worried about the end cap or is it just me being irrational? haha, I think I am starting to get consumed with this and I love it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:48 PM   #83
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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I removed my interior end caps (they fit through the door...like everything else). When it is warm again (here in Minnesota), I will be coating the backs with fiberglass and resin to strengthen and repair some holes and cracks. Then they should be strong enough to reinstall. Then I will be painting them to match the rest of my new interior.

Probably very important that you repair the rotten floor in the rear. Otherwise, you may be looking at rear end separation at some point...and you will be back to square one.

Good luck
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:32 AM   #84
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I took our front and rear end caps out, and plan to use new aluminum for the interior. The compound curves in the upper corner will be covered by overhead cabinets.

If you break yours, I still have my endcaps sitting in my yard.
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