1970 Overlander

[mmarstil]

Hi Arktos, I'll answer as soon as I get back to the house but I did have a quick question while I'm on the road. Is there any stores that sell aluminum large flang rivets that connect the exterior sheets together on the outside ? The PO had put had an accessory on the outside that left four holes in the exterior aluminum. On each side of the front street side window. I'd like to patch them so water cannot get inside. They look like screw holes.. Any suggestions or places I could pick up something that would work on the way home?

[mmarstil]

I stopped at the house but I didn't see a switch for the AC, any suggestions?

[mmarstil]

I stopped at the house but I didn't see a switch for the AC, any suggestions?

[arktos55343]

There isn't a 'switch' for the air conditioner (except for the circuit breaker)...unless you have controls on the a/c head unit itself. You should have a thermostat on one of the bulkhead walls...maybe forward of the galley area? Looks very similar to an old house-type thermostat....probably says Honeywell on it. Then there should be another thermostat that controls your furnace. If you end up replacing furnace and a/c at some point, they would be controlled by one thermostat these days.

The rivets holding your exterior shell together should be 5/32" aluminum buck rivets. If the PO drilled them out larger than 5/32, then you will have to go to a larger size. If you are removing the interior skins, I would wait until you are able to gain access and buck the rivets. Otherwise, in an emergency, you could use Olympic rivets. But large flange rivets are usually only used on the belly pan. Ace Hardware usually carries some aluminum pop rivets in various sizes...but I think they are a little difficult to work with. You can order rivets from Vintage Trailer Supply or Aircraft Spruce or Inland RV. Inland, however, does not have an online ordering system....you would have to call them.

[mmarstil]

The guy before me ripped out the thermostat.. Just found out.. Left nothing but the loose wires.. crap..no wonder I couldn't locate it..

[arktos55343]

Well, that sucks! Sorry to hear that! Hopefully someone will advise you on what to replace it with. I am not sure myself....I don't think newer thermostats work with these older units. I took mine out...replaced the a/c and furnace. If I find my thermostat, I will let you know.

[Aviator]

I think I tossed mine, but I will look in the pile of parts in the garage.

[Mitch54]

Hey Guys! it's Mmarstil, I wanted to get all my usernames to match on the forum sites! Wanted to thank everyone again for all your help so far! I installed 5 Red LEDs for the rear running lights, I had to cut out a panel in the bathroom cabinet to fix a short in the original wiring for the running lights. I sanded the tongue to bare metal and put 3 coats of Rustolem. Tonight I'm going to tear the carpet up to see how bad the floor is in the front end.

[Mitch54]

Here is the tongue...

[Mitch54]

here is the cut out in the bathroom

[Mitch54]

It rained hard here today and I wanted to see if I had any leaks, it appears I only have one leak that is coming off the sliding shade for the street side top vista view window but I can't really tell if the top of the window is leaking or it is something on top of the trailer running down the inner wall, no other leaks are detected during my break at work..I'll check for more tonight, it has rained pretty hard here today. Any possible suggestions? I took a latter and looked but didn't see anything that would cause alarm on the top of the Overlander.

[ALANSD]

you ,at some point, will want to seal ALL the seams. It is not hard to get this done and will save a lot of grief. You can't really trace the leaks, they run in one spot and end up somewhere else.

I use Vulkem or Parbond or Gutter seal. I buy the large animal syringe to squeeze the stuff into tight seams. Also you can use blue painters tape to lay out over the arrea to be seamed which will keep the stuff looking clean and straighter.

[Mitch54]

Quick question, my airstream is very oxidized and polishing just isn't helping to the extent needed. What can I use to remove this! I've used mother aluminum polish but nothing, would it be safe to try 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper like body shops use on paint the polish or would that cause scratches? Or do you guys know of anything I could get that would doped up this process? I'm 7 hours in and only toe Corner of one panel looks decent but not the best.. Thanks!

[desertair27]

Hey Mitch
Have you already removed the clear coat? There are much better polishing products than mothers. You should do a search for polishing on the forums.
You can also do a search for you tube videos and or check out www.perfectpolish.com
Good luck
Mike

[Mitch54]

I haven't removed the clear, I tried aircraft remover but it didn't seem to even touch some of the spots where it appears the clear is still left.

[desertair27]

Originally Posted by Mitch54

I haven't removed the clear, I tried aircraft remover but it didn't seem to even touch some of the spots where it appears the clear is still left.

youll need to get all the clear off before you polish. I've heard the aircraft paint remover works well.
When in doubt I always read up on it here.
Mike

[Aviator]

I looked in my parts, and wasn't able to find the old thermostat. Sorry.

[RM66caravel]

Try citrus strip from home depot. Follow the instructions and it should work well many use it including me!
Cliff

[arktos55343]

I used both Citristrip and Aircraft Paint Stripper. Put it on, leave it and then remove with a high pressure pressure washer. Even then, you may find some shiny streaks left behind...something in the metal that will have to be polished out. If you want a high shine, you will probably eventually need a Cyclo. For now, a low rpm wool pad on a drill or grinder will probably do. Search the forum for types of polish to use. Or order some from Vintage Trailer Supply. But if you want the corrosion gone, you must remove the clear coat.

[ALANSD]

wow 7 Hours in and you have been polishing the clear coat...
Truly polishing should be the last thing on the to do list.