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10-02-2013, 07:33 AM
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#41
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I haven't hooked it up any water to it yet and honestly as soon as it gets to my place this evening I'm going to take high resolution pics and set up a photo sharing site that will allow for better pictures. anything specifically I should take more detailed pictures of and post them? I am going to at least have one helper here for the project.. His name is Aspen! He's lacking tools but he'll be there for moral support! Hehe
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10-02-2013, 08:11 AM
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#42
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
McHenry County
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
I don't think the area was cause by water, I think carpenter ants were involved! As soon as I get it to my place I am going to spray for them and then diagnose the issue, this is I. The opposite side of the front. what do you think?
Attachment 196847
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The front floor damage looks similar to what I had in the TW.
The front wing windows are notorious for leaking. The plastic surrounds on the wings make it difficult to check for leaks.
When you address that part of the floor drill out the rivets at the bottom half of the interior skin. You’ll be able to pull back the panel and insulation and see if water has been collecting in the channel by rusted bolts, corroded “C” channel and funky insulation.
Tom
__________________
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10-02-2013, 01:55 PM
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#43
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
1989 32' Excella
Bay City
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 46
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On my 70 overlander, my fridge has stopped working. Any suggestions on what to check first.
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10-02-2013, 02:31 PM
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#44
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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key grid
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
Thanks! It appears many are year specific, I wonder if the later 70's keys would work the same?
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Here's what goes with what.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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10-02-2013, 03:18 PM
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#45
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt ken
On my 70 overlander, my fridge has stopped working. Any suggestions on what to check first.
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first make sure the trailer is level. Those old fridges need a fairly level surface or they just don't work. You can burp it ( look that up here) but you will have to take it out to do that
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10-02-2013, 05:21 PM
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#46
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt ken
On my 70 overlander, my fridge has stopped working. Any suggestions on what to check first.
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Which part gas, electric (dc) or ac. Insure that the trailer is level and connections are clean.
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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10-03-2013, 05:50 AM
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#47
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Well Guys,
We pulled into my driveway last night with the Overlander. Final Price was 840.00 and I paid my buddy some to help haul it back. I'm going to start working on it this evening with some little things, my dad is making me a jumper cable to power the lights using the outside outlet so we can diagnose any problems, my brother is a mechanic and he stopped by to check it out, said for a 1970 model it looked great to him. let's just say I can't wait to get started after work tonight!
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10-03-2013, 08:21 AM
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#48
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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you stole it
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10-03-2013, 08:31 AM
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#49
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,500
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That's absolutely a bargain. I paid almost as much for a donor Argosy from which I really only needed a pano window and the back bumper. Enjoy the work, and someday enjoy going camping!
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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10-03-2013, 04:40 PM
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#50
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Where is the breaker box in my 1970 Overlander?
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10-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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#51
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
Where is the breaker box in my 1970 Overlander?
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If it's a rear bathroom try under the sink
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10-03-2013, 05:47 PM
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#52
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I checked, not under the sink. Only thing appears to be the furnace
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10-03-2013, 05:49 PM
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#53
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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Bathroom sink maybe or in a closet
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10-03-2013, 06:04 PM
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#54
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I've checked everywhere in closets and the sink, I found the fuse block but isn't there an actual break box?
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10-03-2013, 06:18 PM
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#55
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins
, Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
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Breaker box should be somewhere near the converter and fuse block. Rear streetside closet?
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10-03-2013, 06:25 PM
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#56
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Got it! Bathroom cabinet. opposite side from fuse box ground level.. Strange.. Ok so where is the thermostat to turn on the air conditioner? Haven't located that yet? It worked when he showed me the trailer bit can't find the switch..
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10-03-2013, 08:57 PM
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#57
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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My thermostat was on the roadside at end of bed about 5' above floor. If you have a twin layout, your trailer is identical to mine.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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10-03-2013, 08:58 PM
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#58
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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P.S. I will not be reusing much of my interior components including vents, etc. Let me know if you need anything.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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10-04-2013, 05:16 AM
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#59
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I'll have to check when I get home tonight, i couldn't find it last night. I'm trying to determine what all needs done, I'm making a list. Last night I finally got the stair down after a fighting match. I sanded the surface and used a silver rust sealer on it. I started the tongue last night also, but wow, slow going trying to remove 43 year old bolts and nuts.
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10-04-2013, 06:39 AM
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#60
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins
, Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
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I'm wondering what is your long-term plan for your TT? Fix it up so it's useable, or a full restoration...and to keep and use for many coming years? If you are going to restore, take your time now (I know it's easy to get real excited and rush into things). You can easily get overwhelmed by the cost of replacing parts that are rusted and broken on these 70's Airstreams. And you'll want to preserve as many of the original parts that can't be replaced, or are very expensive (unless you have a BIG restoration budget).
For instance, simply overcoating areas of rust with a sealer/paint is probably a waste of your time and money. The Airstream frames were coated with an oily/tar-like protective coating. For the long term, that stuff needs to come off and the rust treated with something like POR15 to stop the rusting process.
Regarding the stairs.... if they are damaged or rusty....you would do well to get yourself a step stool to use right now...and leave the stairs alone (up and locked in place) until you decide the extent of rust damage. Or take them off and put them away to preserve until you are further along with the project. You don't want to have to replace them.
If you have a KT lock, you would do well to remove it and preserve/restore it. Again, very expensive to replace...and known for breaking.
In general...most parts (lock, stairs, dented panels, windows...have price tags of +/- $500 to replace (if you can find them).
All I'm saying is be careful, slow and methodical in your work. Take pics before and after you take anything apart, so you will be able to refer to your pics when it comes time to put things back together again.
And, of course, have fun! It is a labor of love...and can be very addicting.
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