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Old 09-30-2013, 05:20 PM   #15
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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The crinkle can be fixed, but it will cost big $$$$$$. It may require segment replacement.
It would be the very last thing on the "to do" list for me.
There will be a number of items which will need your attention before the crinkle. Water Heater, Furnace, Refer, Air Conditioning, Converter and misc electrical and plumbing items. Leaks in the shell. And the list goes on.
It is a good price. But be prepared to spend many $$$$$ to correct all of the problems.
Add new axles to the list if you plan to travel. You are looking at $1,500-$2,000 to have new axles installed.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:23 PM   #16
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1957 26' Overlander
1956 22' Flying Cloud
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The dented end cap is going to be tough. I wouldn't save it for last. If you're going to gut the trailer, remove the rear interior end cap to buck the rivets from the inside when replacing the end cap. This is best method. Second to that you can replace it later with Olympic Rivets but they are notorious for leaking. The panel is expensive - $400+. It's not hard work to replace if u DIY. I think it's a great buy. Snap it up or You'll regret it later.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:05 PM   #17
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Hey Guys, Ive spent all evening over at the trailer just talking and the gentleman finally said $800 and a case of beer. I said consider it sold and Ill have it picked up on Wednesday. I have move pictures that Ill load here in a little bit. He tested the electrical for me by running power from his home into the trailer and everything appears to work properly considering its age. Ill have to fill a few holes on the exterior where it looks like accessories or marker reflectors have been removed. I did determine that ithe roof had not leaked the holes in the front were made by termites or carpenter ants. It looks like ther destruction was held to the front cab only. I'm going to have to spray as soon as I get it to my house. Let me know what you think the photos. Thanks for everyones insight and I'm sure Ill be asking many questions here in the near future. Ill send 10 pics at a time. Thanks

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Old 09-30-2013, 07:12 PM   #18
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1981 31' Excella II
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Congratulations

The first thing I would do it pull the belly skins and see what is there. Most trailers of that vintage have rear end rot because of a bad seal at the back of the trailer where a plate that holds the bumper storage compartment goes under the back of the trailer. Check this area closely. Let the fun begin.

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Old 09-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #19
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #20
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DO NOT DRILL OUT THE LOCKS!!! They are expensive. It will be far more cost effective to have a locksmith come out and re-key them for you. (trust me on this one. I have to replace some of my locks after drilling and wish I hadn't) If you plan to gut it, and redo everything, it will be easy to get at the dent in the rear. I bought one of Aerowood's roller and it has be great for some of the stuff on our 1970. We plan to pretty much totally reconfigure the interior on ours so if you need any parts, send me a pm.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #21
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Thanks Very Much! I am going to check on rekeying tomorrow! Thanks for the offer! Ill probably be speaking with you soon! Im a newbie to restoring so hopefully I can learn as I go without making too many mistakes!
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:08 PM   #22
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1981 31' Excella II
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Many of the hatch keys are all the same and you can just buy them from some place like Vintage Trailer Supply.

Perry
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:15 PM   #23
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Are the Hatch Keys differnt from the ones used in the main access door?
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #24
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My coach has 4 different keys. One for the main door, one for the water hatch, one for the storage compartment and refer and one for the battery compartment.
Even if all hatches are keyed the same, I would expect the main door to be different.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:26 PM   #25
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Wow! I didn't know that many different keys were needed! The guy said he didn't have any of the keys that were needed for the hatches nor the main door. Has anyone ran into not having any of the keys before? The main access door isn't locked Im going to check around the area to see if it is possible to get the keys made by a locksmith.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:53 AM   #26
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Take a look.

Airstream Keys | eBay

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Old 10-01-2013, 07:10 AM   #27
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Thanks! It appears many are year specific, I wonder if the later 70's keys would work the same? Also what is your opinion on the flooring situation? The floor is solid in the back of the trailer but in the from it appears that termites have taken over where the couch once was located. When I get it back to my place on Wednesday I am going to spray for the critters and then remove the front flooring piece back to the access door. Hopefully my frame isn't rusted too bad, but I was told that if you didn't find any water damage on the flooring, that the frame might not be that bad under it , what is your experience in this regard?
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil View Post
What do you think about the crinkle in the rear end? Can it be fixed? Attached below is the crinkle, it's the only bad thing on the exterior. Other than the missing outer cover.

Attachment 196769
I had a similar crinkle in mine and a body shop guy came and pulled it out for the cost of a case of beer. Took only a few minutes and you can barely tell there was ever an issue there.
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