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09-30-2013, 07:05 PM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Thanks Very Much! I am going to check on rekeying tomorrow! Thanks for the offer! Ill probably be speaking with you soon! Im a newbie to restoring so hopefully I can learn as I go without making too many mistakes!
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09-30-2013, 07:08 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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Many of the hatch keys are all the same and you can just buy them from some place like Vintage Trailer Supply.
Perry
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09-30-2013, 07:15 PM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Are the Hatch Keys differnt from the ones used in the main access door?
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09-30-2013, 08:06 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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My coach has 4 different keys. One for the main door, one for the water hatch, one for the storage compartment and refer and one for the battery compartment.
Even if all hatches are keyed the same, I would expect the main door to be different.
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09-30-2013, 08:26 PM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Wow! I didn't know that many different keys were needed! The guy said he didn't have any of the keys that were needed for the hatches nor the main door. Has anyone ran into not having any of the keys before? The main access door isn't locked Im going to check around the area to see if it is possible to get the keys made by a locksmith.
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10-01-2013, 05:53 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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10-01-2013, 06:10 AM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Thanks! It appears many are year specific, I wonder if the later 70's keys would work the same? Also what is your opinion on the flooring situation? The floor is solid in the back of the trailer but in the from it appears that termites have taken over where the couch once was located. When I get it back to my place on Wednesday I am going to spray for the critters and then remove the front flooring piece back to the access door. Hopefully my frame isn't rusted too bad, but I was told that if you didn't find any water damage on the flooring, that the frame might not be that bad under it , what is your experience in this regard?
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10-01-2013, 06:29 AM
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#28
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Always dreaming
1963 26' Overlander
Lake Zurich
, Illinois
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
What do you think about the crinkle in the rear end? Can it be fixed? Attached below is the crinkle, it's the only bad thing on the exterior. Other than the missing outer cover.
Attachment 196769
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I had a similar crinkle in mine and a body shop guy came and pulled it out for the cost of a case of beer. Took only a few minutes and you can barely tell there was ever an issue there.
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10-01-2013, 07:38 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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There are frame attach points that need to be repaired properly if you remove the floor. The floor is between the shell and the frame and you can't just cut it even with the walls and slap in a new piece. Spend some time over at the floor and frame section and get some background knowledge.
Perry
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10-01-2013, 07:59 AM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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Thanks Perry, I've actually reviewed many of the postings about floor replacement in the floors section. I spent about 2 hours last night reading up on it. I would say that up to this point it sounds Greek to me. Is this common when you first start? I hope so! I'm excited and scared at that same time! Haha thanks again!
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10-01-2013, 08:08 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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I was able to remove my entry door lockset and take it to locksmith to have it re keyed. If you have the KT lock/ door handle you can buy a new tumbler and install it yourself.
Pretty easy stuff especially with your Pops help.
Good luck
Mike
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10-01-2013, 09:22 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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That is not much floor rot. You can probably just put in a new section and call it good. Usually you get pieces that will fit through the trimmed hole and attach those to the bottom of the floor with panel adhesive and screws. Then you just screw the new piece down to the bridge piece that you just attached.
Perry
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
Attachment 196842
Thanks Perry, I've actually reviewed many of the postings about floor replacement in the floors section. I spent about 2 hours last night reading up on it. I would say that up to this point it sounds Greek to me. Is this common when you first start? I hope so! I'm excited and scared at that same time! Haha thanks again!
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10-01-2013, 10:17 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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if you cut out that secioin and rust proof the framw you see underneath it, you can patch in some plywood and be good to go. Unless you find a lot more rotted areas. See if you can tell where it was leaking
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10-01-2013, 10:27 AM
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#34
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I don't think the area was cause by water, I think carpenter ants were involved! As soon as I get it to my place I am going to spray for them and then diagnose the issue, this is I. The opposite side of the front. what do you think?
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10-01-2013, 11:17 AM
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#35
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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I would go for the patch. Mine had rot in both the front and the rear of the trailer to the extent that I decided to replace the entire floor. When you get it home, open the rear hatch and get a good look at the wood back there. That is one of the notorious areas for rot. If it is locked, the locksmith can pick it for you.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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10-01-2013, 02:32 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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Awesome buy you can do it where are those great deals when I am looking! Do not get shaken by the thread cost estimates do some shopping and you will find that althought it will cost some it is not all that much! More later. If you need help ask!
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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10-01-2013, 03:36 PM
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#37
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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The cost
I am at this point where I am putting it back together and this included frame repair all the floor replacement wood bought and cut so far with axles and all the rest I have 2500.00 invested (my new tools were included my labor charge which she agreed to) so you can save money if you do it yourself!
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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10-02-2013, 06:38 AM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
ELkins
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
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I got the back hatch open last night..
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10-02-2013, 07:04 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Battery tray doesn't look too bad. PLumbing not leaking anywhere? Or have you tried hooking up the water to it?
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10-02-2013, 07:04 AM
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#40
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarstil
I don't think the area was cause by water, I think carpenter ants were involved! As soon as I get it to my place I am going to spray for them and then diagnose the issue, this is I. The opposite side of the front. what do you think?
Attachment 196847
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looks like water leaked on the floor there...the dark spots...
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