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04-26-2015, 07:32 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Gatesville
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
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1967 Globetrotter - What connection is this?
Hey folks,
I am a total newb with Airstreams, and having restored vehicles, I realize how valuable this site is. I have used the search forum extensively and still cannot figure out what type of plug this airstream needs to plug into the wall.
I went to a few dealerships today and they had no idea what I was talking about. It is a three prong...all flat and says
120V-35A Heavy Duty Connector - The Bargman, Detroit Michigan
This is a pic. Any help would be appreciated. I have seen other 35A connectors but none will fit this.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, just trying to buy one online, and dont want to buy the wrong thing.
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04-26-2015, 08:54 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
MILAN
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,013
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120 Volts AC connector Port?
JackD, Is this port mounted on the exterior skin? Is the wire from the back of this port running to your electric service Breaker box inside the Service Center? Do you have the original 30 amp 120 volt cable and plug inside the service center that has a grounded plug for attaching to the Shore Power Pole? This connection Port may have been added by a PO (Previous Owner) using a different power cord than the original one and the exterior cord has been lost to history over the 48 years since the factory original cord was replaced. If this port is connected to the electric service breaker box I would re-wire it to a new 30 amp shore power cord which can still be purchased from Airstream or Out of Doors Mart, Vintage Trailer Supply, or Other trailer vendors. Hope this Helps, Good Luck, Ed
P.S Jack, I just looked at Airstream.com/store an under exterior parts they carry both the skin mounted input port and the power cord to use with it,Fyi. Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab SLE
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
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04-27-2015, 06:27 AM
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#3
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NO HUMBLE OPINION
1968 20' Globetrotter
ANN ARBOR
, THE GREAT LAKES
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 670
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I'll parrot BIGED52's assessment and question.
In the image, looks like the old, old, Bargman receptacle is near your back-up light. If you move it, or restore to original factory configuration, you'll have a hole to patch. I'd upgrade to one of the modern connector systems for RV or Marine at the existing location. Then you'll have power cord options commonly found today.
I'm using Marinco, but there may be even better ones.
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04-27-2015, 06:34 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Laredo
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,342
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I had something similar added by the P.O. Suggest you replace it with something like this:
Furrion 30A Round Stainless Inlet
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04-27-2015, 02:08 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
Gatesville
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52
JackD, Is this port mounted on the exterior skin? Is the wire from the back of this port running to your electric service Breaker box inside the Service Center? Do you have the original 30 amp 120 volt cable and plug inside the service center that has a grounded plug for attaching to the Shore Power Pole? This connection Port may have been added by a PO (Previous Owner) using a different power cord than the original one and the exterior cord has been lost to history over the 48 years since the factory original cord was replaced. If this port is connected to the electric service breaker box I would re-wire it to a new 30 amp shore power cord which can still be purchased from Airstream or Out of Doors Mart, Vintage Trailer Supply, or Other trailer vendors. Hope this Helps, Good Luck, Ed
P.S Jack, I just looked at Airstream.com/store an under exterior parts they carry both the skin mounted input port and the power cord to use with it,Fyi. Ed
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Thanks for the info, it looks like I will need to switch it out, because there is no power cord. When switching out the port (which is mounted to exterior skin), do I need to replace the wiring that is going to the box?
Thanks for your help!
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04-27-2015, 02:09 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
Gatesville
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM
I'll parrot BIGED52's assessment and question.
In the image, looks like the old, old, Bargman receptacle is near your back-up light. If you move it, or restore to original factory configuration, you'll have a hole to patch. I'd upgrade to one of the modern connector systems for RV or Marine at the existing location. Then you'll have power cord options commonly found today.
I'm using Marinco, but there may be even better ones.
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Yeah we are going to go the route of upgrading to a modern connector. Thanks for your help!
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04-27-2015, 02:10 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
Gatesville
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex
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Thanks for the link, going to buy this tonight!!!!
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04-27-2015, 02:20 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Laredo
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,342
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You will probably want a cord like this to go with it:
Furrion 30A RV Powersmart LED Cordset
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04-27-2015, 09:22 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
MILAN
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,013
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Inlet power port
JackD, Get Both The port and the power cord. If I were you I would replace the wiring behind the inlet. It has most likely been there for many years. You cannot go wrong by upgrading to new wiring from the inlet port to the electric service breaker box. Worth the cost for your peace of mind IMHO! Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab SLE
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
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04-27-2015, 09:51 PM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
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And while you're replacing the wiring....install a hardwired surge protector. It's not really a project unless Scope Creep costs you $500. Ha!
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04-28-2015, 07:01 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,319
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Hey jackD, while your at it might as well replace that old breaker box and those old circuit breakers. Better install a ground fault interrupter too, especially on the kitchen and bath circuits. Want AC, better plan that circuit too. The AC wire may be hanging loose next to the breaker box. Heck, might as well upgrade the univolt converter too!
Welcome to the world of old Airstreams and how one little project ends up being a shell off restoration! It is similar to pulling the loose thread and having the whole sweater unravel.
David
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04-28-2015, 07:50 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1958 18' "Footer"
Idyllwild
, California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 645
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This looks very similar to the receptacle on my 1958 Traveler, I know that mine is original and I'll try and post a pic later today. The Power on my '58 goes into a fuse block with screw in fuses in the Hot and Neutral. I am leaving this fuse block and using it as a terminal block to go to a Double Pole Circuit Breaker with Polarity Indication and from there to a Circuit Breaker then a Ground Fault Receptacle prior to any other receptacles and light circuits (these are original). I only have one other circuit that will be added and that will be for the Battery Charger.
Not sure that I would use the space for a hard wired Surge Protector since I do not have any electronics other than my Laptop.
Here is a link to the Circuit Breaker;
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8077/AC_Main_30A
I am not sure if I'll upgrade mine just yet but the Furrion receptacle and Power cord looks very nice.
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04-28-2015, 05:20 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1958 18' "Footer"
Idyllwild
, California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 645
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Here is what mine looks like. I am not sure what I will do when I remove it for polishing but so far works well and since we are more interested in dry-camping I am not sure if I will be upgrading it.
The last pic is of the 12 Volts DC Input. Evidently not all of these had a Battery installed and possibly the 12 Volts DC overhead light was only for use when on the road or when plugged into the TV.
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