Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-18-2010, 08:59 PM   #43
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
The permanent lights are 12VDC and if you have no battery and the univolt is not working then nothing will light up. You know that youre 120VAC is working now you ned to trace down the problem with the 12VDC side of the system.
Can this testing of the 12V be done without a battery? if not I'll see if I can pick one up tomorrow. I will also need to pick up some kind of voltage meter at Home Depot
__________________

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2010, 09:27 PM   #44
Rivet Master
 
chapparel's Avatar
 
1965 22' Safari
Three Rivers , California
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 642
I am not sure if my two cents is worth anything, but I don't think you will be cutting through fiberglass to get to the area where you have the exterior dent. You will be cutting through the inner skin (aluminum) and that would be covered by the rear cabinet after you repair the inner skin after you fix the dent..jus sayin!!!!!!!!!!
__________________

__________________
"Life isn't about how to survive the storm,
but how to dance in the rain."
AIR #17571
chapparel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2010, 09:41 PM   #45
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Stephen well if the univolt is not working then you need some sort of source of 12VDC power. A battery charger would double as a battery when connected to the battery terminals. I had a look at your wiring diagram. You can see the path from battery,univolt,charge line through the two 40 amp fuses(positive and negative) to the three circuits in your trailer. So it`s like I said the blue wire is the charge line from the tow vehicle, the red and white coming in from the left into the 40amp fuses are the pos and neg from the battery,the other red and white are from the univolt. Ijust had a close look at your pics. It seems like a blue wire is not connected to any terminal and it also looks like it is disconnected inside as well. You will have to phsically trace out these wires ank make sure no positive wires are bare and touching metal before connecting any power source.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 06:05 AM   #46
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Inner shell

Quote:
Originally Posted by chapparel View Post
I am not sure if my two cents is worth anything, but I don't think you will be cutting through fiberglass to get to the area where you have the exterior dent. You will be cutting through the inner skin (aluminum) and that would be covered by the rear cabinet after you repair the inner skin after you fix the dent..jus sayin!!!!!!!!!!
I too had assumed there was aluminum in the shell. as I started removing the fiberglass shower and discovered it not to be the case. I found insulation instead if aluminum.......ugh.....(actually other words were uttered at that moment). I had originally wanted an all aluminum bathroom buffed to a shine. You can see the blue taped off areas on the shell in earlier posts where the insulation was found. I've decided to bring aluminum up the shower wall to where I taped the trim for a visual idea. The fiberglass shell wraps around behind the cabinet too where the dent is located. The curved section is in view and will be after cut so I'm very hesitant.
__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 09:31 PM   #47
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
lights and outlets are working

we now have lights and all outlets working and plan to replace the converter that needs updating. Just not sure what watt we need to be looking at. I see some on PPL. This one looks like it has good features and appears well built. Is this too much for my Airsteam? Need some advice on what I should be considering.

RV Converter - 80 Amps Converter
__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 09:56 PM   #48
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Stephen that's great. How did you get everything working? Are you sure the converter is dead? Maybe it's just not connected.
That is a fantastic price for that converter. My wholesale price here is $319 CAD. You should replace the 40 amp fuses and install a new fuse panel while your'e at it.
If you plan to do a lot of boondocking now is the time to consider a solar charging system.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 12:40 AM   #49
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
Talking mystery solved

Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH-Utah View Post
That rear cabinet isn't that hard to remove, it took me about an hour to get out. It comes out as a unit, all in one piece.
Attachment 115458
With that out, and an understandable reluctance to remove the whole fiberglass end cap, you might be able to cut an opening in the fiberglass to gain access to your dent from the inside. Since most of that access opening would be behind the closet after you put it back in it wouldn't be all that visible, and fiberglass isn't that hard to patch. It would seem that this approach would be much less work than replacing the whole panel from the outside.
Attachment 115459
The aluminum shelf is apparently a factory original item. My closet has the exact same shelf complete with a brown plastic drawer that matches all the ones up front. The drawer even came with matching dividers.
BWH
Thanks for the shelf pic.Now to find an original divided tray.
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 05:52 PM   #50
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
40 amp fuses and new fuse panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Stephen that's great. How did you get everything working? Are you sure the converter is dead? Maybe it's just not connected.
That is a fantastic price for that converter. My wholesale price here is $319 CAD. You should replace the 40 amp fuses and install a new fuse panel while your'e at it.
If you plan to do a lot of boondocking now is the time to consider a solar charging system.
Chris;

I like the idea of replacing the 40 watt fuses and the new fuse panel. Can you send me a link or info on whetether more current ones are available. What would you recommend? Yes we do alot of boondocking so I would like to learn more about the idea of solar panels. Are they complicated to use and install?

I just ordered that converter I mentioned in my previous post. Thanks.
__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 07:42 PM   #51
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Stephen here is the link to Best converters. They have 120VAC distribution panels,12VDC distribution panels and solar charger packages.
BTW the same converter is $241.50 from them.
BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics
He is the man to call and will answer all your questions regarding your electrical and make then proper recommendations regarding the type of set up you want.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 06:44 PM   #52
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Cutting out bad section of floor??

I am cutting the floor to remove the rotted rear section and have a question. Is the floor bolted to the frame along the outer perimeter. I thought I would be able to cut and remove old section to use as a template in 2 sections. see photo's I took tonight after cutting the floor.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1650.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	299.5 KB
ID:	115814   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1651.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	291.8 KB
ID:	115815  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1652.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	243.8 KB
ID:	115816   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1653.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	307.9 KB
ID:	115817  

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 07:51 PM   #53
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
Should be bolted to an outrigger and the channel.(Check along that seam pictured)You should see elevator bolts along the seam.The rear(under access door should have a 2in strip of 2 in. steel running across that the floor bolts are in.As for the curve pictured there is no frame in that area.
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 07:53 PM   #54
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
PS remove that aluminum skin and you will figure it out when you see the channel..
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2010, 10:14 AM   #55
3 Rivet Member
 
BWH-Utah's Avatar
 
1965 22' Safari
Salt Lake City , Utah
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 113
Images: 3
How far to go

I removed the same piece of floor on my '65. You are going to have to remove the lower piece of inner aluminum skin. That will allow you to access the bolts that connect the C-channel to the plywood. Take a look at the first photo in post #24 here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f191...n-69770-2.html
This is what you will see once you get that inner skin removed. What I found was that there is no way to get the floor out without removing the inner skin all the way around the bathroom area. That is probably not what you really want to hear, but that IS what you are up against.
Good Luck,
BWH
__________________
BWH-Utah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2010, 03:58 PM   #56
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH-Utah View Post
I removed the same piece of floor on my '65. You are going to have to remove the lower piece of inner aluminum skin. That will allow you to access the bolts that connect the C-channel to the plywood. Take a look at the first photo in post #24 here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f191...n-69770-2.html
This is what you will see once you get that inner skin removed. What I found was that there is no way to get the floor out without removing the inner skin all the way around the bathroom area. That is probably not what you really want to hear, but that IS what you are up against.
Good Luck,
BWH
Thanks for your advice. Perhaps it makes it more compelling to remove the shell too while I'm in there if I will need to remove that cabinet in the bathroom anyway. I could then repair the dent while in there. How difficult is it to remove the fiberglass shell, and is it difficult to get it back in its original position afterwards?
__________________

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1965


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Renovation of gutted 1965 Caravel 65CV 1965 Caravel 185 12-24-2012 06:15 AM
1965 Safari Bathroom Renovation - COMPLETED! :) rburditt Sinks, Showers & Toilets 41 07-08-2012 10:52 PM
New Oven 1965 Ambassador???????? Airstreamdmb Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 16 11-10-2010 11:12 AM
1965 Safari Interior Renovation Completed :) rburditt General Repair Forum 23 06-21-2009 12:53 PM
1965 Ambassador tbrom 1966 - 1969 Ambassador 9 06-04-2007 10:50 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.