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Old 11-17-2010, 05:02 PM   #29
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Breaker

Chris I forgot to mention that I had flipped the switch myself it wasn't triggered by being plugged in.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:31 PM   #30
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Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:23 AM   #31
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Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?
I will check to see if the outlet are getting power later today and let you know. I'll also see if I can look closer at the small box next to the main panel box to see where that wire goes. Here's a different angle of some of those wires that I noticed in another photo I had taken. shows the orange and the two battery wires. is this the orange one I should be putting the electrical tape on for now.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:20 AM   #32
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Good Morning Stephen Yes the orange wires are 12VDC positive. If you see any others tjat are bare and loose they should be taped up for now so the don't short out against any metal straight to ground.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:41 AM   #33
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so far so good

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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?
Chris;

A pleasant surprise. I taped off the orange positive as a precautuin as you suggested. flipped switches and outlet all have power and appear to work fine. A slight hum is coming from converter. However when i flipped off the 3 switched on the main box and flipped back on there is a flickering of the light and hear a different noise coming from converter. when i flipped it off a couple times it returned to normal and the hum sounded normal again. perhaps this is why the new converter is in the trailer to replace old one? no breakers kicked during this flickering. I tool a loser look at the small box too. has a switch and a small cover that opens up. discovered a small round 25 w screw in fuse. not sure where wire goes. appears to go into wall can't really see back there. there is a separate thermostat for the cooling A/C on the same wall further down trailer and it appears to be on that same type of line. I do know the trailer has a general purpose circuit as well as a separate appliance circuit from the diagram. could it perhaps be the appliance circuit?? I did notice none of the lights worked when flipping or turning light switches. but could be bad bulbs too. I can tell you that two separate circuits for lights did turn on and off independently. third switch (30 amp) didn't appear to affect anything? the switch on small box also doesn't appear to do anything. perhaps 25W fuse is blown? Could this go to what appears to be cigarette lighter receptacles???
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:58 AM   #34
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Stephen that's great it sounds like your 120VAC system is working fine. The old Univolt always hums like that. Between the humming and the fact that it is not a step down charger and will boil your battery dry and ruin it that's why most people change the Univolt for a newer converter.
What light was flickering?
The small box with the 25 amp fuse probably is for the A/C(appliance circuit). It is part of the 120VAC wiring and will not be for the 12VDC power points(cigarette lighter receptacles).
So you know the Univolt is receiving 120VAC now you need to check if it is sending out 12VDC. If you have a mulitmeter check for 12VDC at the point where the wires from the Univolt attach at those two small circuit breakers seen from the rear of the trailer. Set the multimeter to check for 12VDC voltage. Place the red probe on the connection of the red wire and place the black probe on the connection of the white wire. The battery cable positive should also be taped off unless properly connected to a battery.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:20 AM   #35
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Our 65 Safari came with a plastic divided bin that sits on that shelf for bathroom supplies so they don't tip over I would assume.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:22 AM   #36
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If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.
That rear cabinet isn't that hard to remove, it took me about an hour to get out. It comes out as a unit, all in one piece.
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With that out, and an understandable reluctance to remove the whole fiberglass end cap, you might be able to cut an opening in the fiberglass to gain access to your dent from the inside. Since most of that access opening would be behind the closet after you put it back in it wouldn't be all that visible, and fiberglass isn't that hard to patch. It would seem that this approach would be much less work than replacing the whole panel from the outside.
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The aluminum shelf is apparently a factory original item. My closet has the exact same shelf complete with a brown plastic drawer that matches all the ones up front. The drawer even came with matching dividers.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:19 AM   #37
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Thanks, we thought it might need a sliding drawer. That is the only thing missing from my 66 Overlander. So I guess we are doing ok...
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:06 PM   #38
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Converter Suggestion

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Stephen that's great it sounds like your 120VAC system is working fine. The old Univolt always hums like that. Between the humming and the fact that it is not a step down charger and will boil your battery dry and ruin it that's why most people change the Univolt for a newer converter.
Any suggestion as to a particular converter I should be purchasing? I don't know if there are any specific features or requirements I should be looking for. I see the website for PPL has a few. Since I plan to order other items I can include this in the shipment for minimizing shipping fees. thanks.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:14 PM   #39
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interesting idea

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That rear cabinet isn't that hard to remove, it took me about an hour to get out. It comes out as a unit, all in one piece.
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With that out, and an understandable reluctance to remove the whole fiberglass end cap, you might be able to cut an opening in the fiberglass to gain access to your dent from the inside. Since most of that access opening would be behind the closet after you put it back in it wouldn't be all that visible, and fiberglass isn't that hard to patch. It would seem that this approach would be much less work than replacing the whole panel from the outside.
I like your idea about the fiberglass unit. Am still reluctant to start cutting away and then trying repair it. Is that likely to be less work than from the outside. I assume that to be the case or you would not be suggesting this alternative..
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:17 PM   #40
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I haven`t given them much thought yet because replacing mine is so far away. You would want something around 50AMPS with a step down battery charger so it won`t boil your battery dry. There is a forum member here. I`m not sure what his screen name is but his name is Randy and his company is bestconverters.com. Contact him and he will set you up.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:22 PM   #41
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What light was flickering?
The small box with the 25 amp fuse probably is for the A/C(appliance circuit). It is part of the 120VAC wiring and will not be for the 12VDC power points(cigarette lighter receptacles).
So you know the Univolt is receiving 120VAC now you need to check if it is sending out 12VDC. If you have a mulitmeter check for 12VDC at the point where the wires from the Univolt attach at those two small circuit breakers seen from the rear of the trailer. Set the multimeter to check for 12VDC voltage. Place the red probe on the connection of the red wire and place the black probe on the connection of the white wire.
I wasn't clear with my description. I tested all outlets with a light I plugged into each outlet. All outlets worked fine. The flickering was coming from a couple lights at one point in time. As far as the actual permanent lights inside the trailer go, I don't see these come on at all. perhaps bulbs are bad? Are these common bulbs that can be obtained at a auto supply store? I can replace them and see if that is the issue.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:30 PM   #42
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The permanent lights are 12VDC and if you have no battery and the univolt is not working then nothing will light up. You know that youre 120VAC is working now you ned to trace down the problem with the 12VDC side of the system.
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