Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-16-2010, 06:13 PM   #15
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
rear bath area
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1430.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	244.9 KB
ID:	115390   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1482.jpg
Views:	78
Size:	242.9 KB
ID:	115391  

__________________

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 06:21 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
I don't have the shell out so I can't get to the insulation because there are too many obstuctions in the way that are in good condition.
__________________

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 06:29 PM   #17
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb View Post
Anyone have any suggestions regarding my electrical question I posted earlier on this thread?
Stephen Do you have any working 12VDC or working 120VAC in th trailer now?
I looked at your pics and it seems like the red and white wires coming from the left should be to the battery. The bottom blue wire should be charge line from the umbilical and the red should be from the converter.
Do you have a convertre working in the trailer? Do you have agood battery in the trailer? What about when hooked up to the TV does any of the 12VDC work?
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 08:23 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
dent

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb View Post
Attempted to use a couple small suction dent pullers but no luck. Couldn't get enough of a seal to exert any force. Has any one ever attached a couple rivets and use the posts as leverage to pull a dent? A) will it work, and B) will it look strange to have a couple stray rivets in the middle of the panel afterwards? any other thoughts?
I have one with a crease on back panel.I was able to push mine out from the inside ,but had skins off.At the resto rally in June Kip had a roller he used which I duplicated to roll the dent from the inside.Since your skins are on you might try a body shop for help with the suction as these guys know all the tricks.Thanks for the pics .Love that scroll work on the screen door!
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 08:31 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
PS You can replace the panel from the outside and reistall with olympic rivets if you want.I am trying to get my dent in basically the same place decent looking though not perfect.If it really bugs me down the road will replace from outside.In the pic on post 15 what is the aluminum shelf in the cabinet? Does anyone know?I have one too, but was bare when I got the trailer.
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 06:09 AM   #20
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
converter

Chris;

Thanks for checking in. It would appear the trailer hasn't been used for several years don't currently have a working 12V. I discovered a replacement converter in the closet in a box. It's used but we don't know if it works. Just by pure coincidence I discovered it may have actually been owned by someone else active on these same threads. I wanted some advice and guidance before doing anything. Not sure about the 120V. I plugged in cord but didn't flip any switches at that time. they may have been all flipped off at that time too. Here are a couple photo's of the converter from the box and the old one still in the trailer secured under the cabinet. I'm assuming the existing one wasn't working which may explain why there is an extra on in the closet. Just a guess though. I can supply much more detailed or specific photo's for you to view. just let me know what you would like to get a better look at. Thanks. Steph.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1426.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	302.8 KB
ID:	115414   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1429.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	223.0 KB
ID:	115415  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1434.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	169.6 KB
ID:	115416   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1451.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	372.8 KB
ID:	115417  

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 06:55 AM   #21
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Stephen Do you have any working 12VDC or working 120VAC in th trailer now?
I looked at your pics and it seems like the red and white wires coming from the left should be to the battery. The bottom blue wire should be charge line from the umbilical and the red should be from the converter.
Do you have a convertre working in the trailer? Do you have agood battery in the trailer? What about when hooked up to the TV does any of the 12VDC work?
Chris I am posting some other photo's too.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1455.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	183.8 KB
ID:	115418   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1477.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	384.4 KB
ID:	115419  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1478.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	387.0 KB
ID:	115420   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1479.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	351.5 KB
ID:	115421  

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 07:11 AM   #22
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
mystery shelf???

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaysteve View Post
PS You can replace the panel from the outside and reistall with olympic rivets if you want.I am trying to get my dent in basically the same place decent looking though not perfect.If it really bugs me down the road will replace from outside.In the pic on post 15 what is the aluminum shelf in the cabinet? Does anyone know?I have one too, but was bare when I got the trailer.
If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1430.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	244.9 KB
ID:	115422  
__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 07:19 AM   #23
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Watco Red Mahogany

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaysteve View Post
Great find!
Welcome to the site.It is interesting to see the differences in the sreetside between yours and mine(I think yours is a double w/rear bath?)Mine is a twin.Your floor looks good in the pics.I had a few large edge spots so did a total replacement.
The walls look really good.Check TKasten profile for a look at his 65 walls.He did them with Watco mahogany red oil.I plan the same.
Please post a pic of your curbside if possible.Does your spare fit behind the P tanks ok?Does it look factory?

Check my redo "Gutting the 65" Long live 65's Steve
Yes Steve; Thanks for checking in here.I absolutely agree. Tim's interior with the Watco looks great. I too am planning this with mine. I'm so glad to have found this one with the Mahogany. They only made these for a couple years I'm told. After contacting Tim a couple weeks ago I went out and ordered the oil on Amazon. I have since discovered they carry it at Home Depot as well. Tim has good thread on how he cleaned and oiled it in 4 coats.
__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 08:13 AM   #24
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Good morning Stephen, as far as I can tell my guess about the red and white wires coming in from the left are the battery cables and the others look right as well. It should be pretty easy to trace out these wires and confirm their source.
I would clean up the battery terminals and install a battery then start at those two 12VDC circuit breakers and look for voltage on both sides of them. If you have voltage on both sides move along to the 12VDC distribution center and check each connection for voltage in and out from each point. I see and orange wire lying loose in the bathroom area. That is a 12VDC positive wire and should be capped or wrapped in electrical tape before connecting a battery or shore power.
The two new pics of the 120VAC breaker panel. The first one shows all breakers on and the second shows one circuit off. Did you turn off this breaker or did it trip once you plugged in the trailer to shore power? Check around for loose or disconnected 120VAC wires. If all looks good turn off all the breakers andplug in the trailer. Then turn on the main breaker and see if it trips. If it doesn't make sure the breaker at your house hasn't tripped. If both still good turn on one of the other breakers. If it stays on start checking receptacles in the trailer for 120VAC. Then turn on the second breaker and start checking again. Where does the wire goe that is connected to that switch next to the 120VAC main panel box?
I wouldn't bother using that second converter. It is also quite old technology and does not have step down charge capabilities so it will keep charging your battery and eventually boil it dry and ruin it.
Let me know what you find out.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 09:00 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
tkasten's Avatar
 
1965 22' Safari
Vassar , Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 847
Images: 6
The pic of your old converter looks just like mine. Mine is still working (knock on wood) so haven't changed it out. When I got the trailer nothing worked. I discovered a flip down door on the converter that housed 2 old style screw in fuses. I replaced them and to my amazement everything worked. I still replaced the furnace, waterpump and all lights are LED. Next spring I plan to update the converter and water heater.....Tim
__________________
Tim
TAC MI 14

Everyday is a Saturday
tkasten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 11:41 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
bwaysteve's Avatar
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 590
Images: 5
position

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb View Post
If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.
Stephen, It is my understanding that panel on the side can be removed,use it as a template and replace with.032 2024T alclad.The higher panels I think are compound curves and I personally would not attempt those.Check with Kip (Aerowood) He is a terrific metal craftsman and was one of the instructors at the resto rally in ABQ last June.He will know the limitations for DIY.Steve
__________________
bwaysteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 01:41 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb View Post
rear bath area
I have that same metal open ended box in my 66 Overlander bathroom cabinet. What the heck is that for..tissues?
__________________
1966 Overlander
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
Our AIRSTREAM and TIN CAN TOURIST Rallys
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 05:00 PM   #28
3 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta , New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Pages from Manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Good morning Stephen, as far as I can tell my guess about the red and white wires coming in from the left are the battery cables and the others look right as well. It should be pretty easy to trace out these wires and confirm their source.
I would clean up the battery terminals and install a battery then start at those two 12VDC circuit breakers and look for voltage on both sides of them. If you have voltage on both sides move along to the 12VDC distribution center and check each connection for voltage in and out from each point. I see and orange wire lying loose in the bathroom area. That is a 12VDC positive wire and should be capped or wrapped in electrical tape before connecting a battery or shore power.
The two new pics of the 120VAC breaker panel. The first one shows all breakers on and the second shows one circuit off. Did you turn off this breaker or did it trip once you plugged in the trailer to shore power? Check around for loose or disconnected 120VAC wires. If all looks good turn off all the breakers andplug in the trailer. Then turn on the main breaker and see if it trips. If it doesn't make sure the breaker at your house hasn't tripped. If both still good turn on one of the other breakers. If it stays on start checking receptacles in the trailer for 120VAC. Then turn on the second breaker and start checking again. Where does the wire goe that is connected to that switch next to the 120VAC main panel box?
I wouldn't bother using that second converter. It is also quite old technology and does not have step down charge capabilities so it will keep charging your battery and eventually boil it dry and ruin it.
Let me know what you find out.
Chris I'm including copies of the manual pages I made today at work to help as a reference for you too if it helps out.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	electrical diagram.png
Views:	82
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	115432   Click image for larger version

Name:	electrical system.png
Views:	89
Size:	94.8 KB
ID:	115433  

__________________

__________________
Airstreamdmb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1965


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Renovation of gutted 1965 Caravel 65CV 1965 Caravel 185 12-24-2012 06:15 AM
1965 Safari Bathroom Renovation - COMPLETED! :) rburditt Sinks, Showers & Toilets 41 07-08-2012 10:52 PM
New Oven 1965 Ambassador???????? Airstreamdmb Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 16 11-10-2010 11:12 AM
1965 Safari Interior Renovation Completed :) rburditt General Repair Forum 23 06-21-2009 12:53 PM
1965 Ambassador tbrom 1966 - 1969 Ambassador 9 06-04-2007 10:50 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.