1965 Ambassador Renovation updates

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Stephen Do you have any working 12VDC or working 120VAC in th trailer now?
I looked at your pics and it seems like the red and white wires coming from the left should be to the battery. The bottom blue wire should be charge line from the umbilical and the red should be from the converter.
Do you have a convertre working in the trailer? Do you have agood battery in the trailer? What about when hooked up to the TV does any of the 12VDC work?

Chris I am posting some other photo's too.

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

PS You can replace the panel from the outside and reistall with olympic rivets if you want.I am trying to get my dent in basically the same place decent looking though not perfect.If it really bugs me down the road will replace from outside.In the pic on post 15 what is the aluminum shelf in the cabinet? Does anyone know?I have one too, but was bare when I got the trailer.

If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Great find!
Welcome to the site.It is interesting to see the differences in the sreetside between yours and mine(I think yours is a double w/rear bath?)Mine is a twin.Your floor looks good in the pics.I had a few large edge spots so did a total replacement.
The walls look really good.Check TKasten profile for a look at his 65 walls.He did them with Watco mahogany red oil.I plan the same.
Please post a pic of your curbside if possible.Does your spare fit behind the P tanks ok?Does it look factory?

Check my redo "Gutting the 65" Long live 65's Steve

Yes Steve; Thanks for checking in here.I absolutely agree. Tim's interior with the Watco looks great. I too am planning this with mine. I'm so glad to have found this one with the Mahogany. They only made these for a couple years I'm told. After contacting Tim a couple weeks ago I went out and ordered the oil on Amazon. I have since discovered they carry it at Home Depot as well. Tim has good thread on how he cleaned and oiled it in 4 coats.

[wasagachris]

Good morning Stephen, as far as I can tell my guess about the red and white wires coming in from the left are the battery cables and the others look right as well. It should be pretty easy to trace out these wires and confirm their source.
I would clean up the battery terminals and install a battery then start at those two 12VDC circuit breakers and look for voltage on both sides of them. If you have voltage on both sides move along to the 12VDC distribution center and check each connection for voltage in and out from each point. I see and orange wire lying loose in the bathroom area. That is a 12VDC positive wire and should be capped or wrapped in electrical tape before connecting a battery or shore power.
The two new pics of the 120VAC breaker panel. The first one shows all breakers on and the second shows one circuit off. Did you turn off this breaker or did it trip once you plugged in the trailer to shore power? Check around for loose or disconnected 120VAC wires. If all looks good turn off all the breakers andplug in the trailer. Then turn on the main breaker and see if it trips. If it doesn't make sure the breaker at your house hasn't tripped. If both still good turn on one of the other breakers. If it stays on start checking receptacles in the trailer for 120VAC. Then turn on the second breaker and start checking again. Where does the wire goe that is connected to that switch next to the 120VAC main panel box?
I wouldn't bother using that second converter. It is also quite old technology and does not have step down charge capabilities so it will keep charging your battery and eventually boil it dry and ruin it.
Let me know what you find out.

[tkasten]

The pic of your old converter looks just like mine. Mine is still working (knock on wood) so haven't changed it out. When I got the trailer nothing worked. I discovered a flip down door on the converter that housed 2 old style screw in fuses. I replaced them and to my amazement everything worked. I still replaced the furnace, waterpump and all lights are LED. Next spring I plan to update the converter and water heater.....Tim

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb

If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.

Stephen, It is my understanding that panel on the side can be removed,use it as a template and replace with.032 2024T alclad.The higher panels I think are compound curves and I personally would not attempt those.Check with Kip (Aerowood) He is a terrific metal craftsman and was one of the instructors at the resto rally in ABQ last June.He will know the limitations for DIY.Steve

[ALANSD]

Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb

rear bath area

I have that same metal open ended box in my 66 Overlander bathroom cabinet. What the heck is that for..tissues?

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Good morning Stephen, as far as I can tell my guess about the red and white wires coming in from the left are the battery cables and the others look right as well. It should be pretty easy to trace out these wires and confirm their source.
I would clean up the battery terminals and install a battery then start at those two 12VDC circuit breakers and look for voltage on both sides of them. If you have voltage on both sides move along to the 12VDC distribution center and check each connection for voltage in and out from each point. I see and orange wire lying loose in the bathroom area. That is a 12VDC positive wire and should be capped or wrapped in electrical tape before connecting a battery or shore power.
The two new pics of the 120VAC breaker panel. The first one shows all breakers on and the second shows one circuit off. Did you turn off this breaker or did it trip once you plugged in the trailer to shore power? Check around for loose or disconnected 120VAC wires. If all looks good turn off all the breakers andplug in the trailer. Then turn on the main breaker and see if it trips. If it doesn't make sure the breaker at your house hasn't tripped. If both still good turn on one of the other breakers. If it stays on start checking receptacles in the trailer for 120VAC. Then turn on the second breaker and start checking again. Where does the wire goe that is connected to that switch next to the 120VAC main panel box?
I wouldn't bother using that second converter. It is also quite old technology and does not have step down charge capabilities so it will keep charging your battery and eventually boil it dry and ruin it.
Let me know what you find out.

Chris I'm including copies of the manual pages I made today at work to help as a reference for you too if it helps out.

[Airstreamdmb]

Chris I forgot to mention that I had flipped the switch myself it wasn't triggered by being plugged in.

[wasagachris]

Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?

I will check to see if the outlet are getting power later today and let you know. I'll also see if I can look closer at the small box next to the main panel box to see where that wire goes. Here's a different angle of some of those wires that I noticed in another photo I had taken. shows the orange and the two battery wires. is this the orange one I should be putting the electrical tape on for now.

[wasagachris]

Good Morning Stephen Yes the orange wires are 12VDC positive. If you see any others tjat are bare and loose they should be taped up for now so the don't short out against any metal straight to ground.

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Stephen O.K. then once it was plugged no breakers tripped so there is no dead short in the 120VAC. When plugged in did any of the trailer receptacles have power? Whats with the little box with the switch next to the main panel box?

Chris;

A pleasant surprise. I taped off the orange positive as a precautuin as you suggested. flipped switches and outlet all have power and appear to work fine. A slight hum is coming from converter. However when i flipped off the 3 switched on the main box and flipped back on there is a flickering of the light and hear a different noise coming from converter. when i flipped it off a couple times it returned to normal and the hum sounded normal again. perhaps this is why the new converter is in the trailer to replace old one? no breakers kicked during this flickering. I tool a loser look at the small box too. has a switch and a small cover that opens up. discovered a small round 25 w screw in fuse. not sure where wire goes. appears to go into wall can't really see back there. there is a separate thermostat for the cooling A/C on the same wall further down trailer and it appears to be on that same type of line. I do know the trailer has a general purpose circuit as well as a separate appliance circuit from the diagram. could it perhaps be the appliance circuit?? I did notice none of the lights worked when flipping or turning light switches. but could be bad bulbs too. I can tell you that two separate circuits for lights did turn on and off independently. third switch (30 amp) didn't appear to affect anything? the switch on small box also doesn't appear to do anything. perhaps 25W fuse is blown? Could this go to what appears to be cigarette lighter receptacles???

[wasagachris]

Stephen that's great it sounds like your 120VAC system is working fine. The old Univolt always hums like that. Between the humming and the fact that it is not a step down charger and will boil your battery dry and ruin it that's why most people change the Univolt for a newer converter.
What light was flickering?
The small box with the 25 amp fuse probably is for the A/C(appliance circuit). It is part of the 120VAC wiring and will not be for the 12VDC power points(cigarette lighter receptacles).
So you know the Univolt is receiving 120VAC now you need to check if it is sending out 12VDC. If you have a mulitmeter check for 12VDC at the point where the wires from the Univolt attach at those two small circuit breakers seen from the rear of the trailer. Set the multimeter to check for 12VDC voltage. Place the red probe on the connection of the red wire and place the black probe on the connection of the white wire. The battery cable positive should also be taped off unless properly connected to a battery.

[JoAnn Smith]

Our 65 Safari came with a plastic divided bin that sits on that shelf for bathroom supplies so they don't tip over I would assume.

[BWH-Utah]

Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb

If it can be done from outside that is likely the way I will have to approach it. Is it difficult or labor intensive and is it a section that can be fabricated myself or need to be special ordered/installed professionally??? Not a "front burner" item right now as it is cosmetic. I'm working on getting trailer watertight and solid floor closed up as best possible for winter then major systems and bathroom rehab over the winter months. Great question about that aluminum shelf in the closet. They list this as linen closet in the manual but I'm guessing it was something involving electrical component or add on option??? Don't know, but would be interested to find out.

That rear cabinet isn't that hard to remove, it took me about an hour to get out. It comes out as a unit, all in one piece.

With that out, and an understandable reluctance to remove the whole fiberglass end cap, you might be able to cut an opening in the fiberglass to gain access to your dent from the inside. Since most of that access opening would be behind the closet after you put it back in it wouldn't be all that visible, and fiberglass isn't that hard to patch. It would seem that this approach would be much less work than replacing the whole panel from the outside.

The aluminum shelf is apparently a factory original item. My closet has the exact same shelf complete with a brown plastic drawer that matches all the ones up front. The drawer even came with matching dividers.
BWH

[ALANSD]

Thanks, we thought it might need a sliding drawer. That is the only thing missing from my 66 Overlander. So I guess we are doing ok...

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Stephen that's great it sounds like your 120VAC system is working fine. The old Univolt always hums like that. Between the humming and the fact that it is not a step down charger and will boil your battery dry and ruin it that's why most people change the Univolt for a newer converter.

Any suggestion as to a particular converter I should be purchasing? I don't know if there are any specific features or requirements I should be looking for. I see the website for PPL has a few. Since I plan to order other items I can include this in the shipment for minimizing shipping fees. thanks.

[Airstreamdmb]

Originally Posted by BWH-Utah

That rear cabinet isn't that hard to remove, it took me about an hour to get out. It comes out as a unit, all in one piece.
Attachment 115458
With that out, and an understandable reluctance to remove the whole fiberglass end cap, you might be able to cut an opening in the fiberglass to gain access to your dent from the inside. Since most of that access opening would be behind the closet after you put it back in it wouldn't be all that visible, and fiberglass isn't that hard to patch. It would seem that this approach would be much less work than replacing the whole panel from the outside.

I like your idea about the fiberglass unit. Am still reluctant to start cutting away and then trying repair it. Is that likely to be less work than from the outside. I assume that to be the case or you would not be suggesting this alternative..

[wasagachris]

I haven`t given them much thought yet because replacing mine is so far away. You would want something around 50AMPS with a step down battery charger so it won`t boil your battery dry. There is a forum member here. I`m not sure what his screen name is but his name is Randy and his company is bestconverters.com. Contact him and he will set you up.