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Old 02-08-2016, 06:08 PM   #57
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1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom , California
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I used Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations for my new Axle - it went "swimmingly" (and he's in N.Y.)
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Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:34 PM   #58
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1962 22' Safari
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Thanks for the tip! Did they order you a Dexter axil?
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:05 PM   #59
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I believe it's an "Axis" axle . . . which is a torsion axle like dexter
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Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:29 PM   #60
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Looking ahead... Is there any reason airstream didn't run the wiring below the floor and then up through the walls? Seems like that might make it easier to run new lines as needed.

Also does anyone have experience putting flexible plastic conduit in the walls to make future wiring upgrades/alterations easier?
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Old 02-11-2016, 12:08 AM   #61
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I think the main issue with running wire under the subfloor would be that it makes it more susceptible to rodent damage. They're much less likely to get in the walls (tho it definitely happens) than the belly pan.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:42 AM   #62
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Good call! I didn't think about that. Thanks!

Anyone have experience w conduit?
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:36 PM   #63
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Did a rough calculation of hours of work required before the wedding. Added an additional 20% for the unexpected and came to 13 weeks at the current number of hours/week. Time to get a move on!!

Hope to have all the lead paint stripped and frame repaired in two weeks and then start some reassembly. Gonna be tight!
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:24 AM   #64
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WARNING: do NOT strip paint off any aluminum with PEEL AWAY 1 from Dumond! it will chemically etch/pit the aluminum. apparently their other stripping products won't.

luckily i only tested it on a small patch that is relatively "easy" to replace.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:11 PM   #65
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Hey I really liked your plan of work and I suggest you should go out with this plan of work and best of luck !
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:39 PM   #66
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Frame repairs in progress!

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Old 02-23-2016, 04:55 PM   #67
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Nice progress, when are getting married, 2017
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:16 PM   #68
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Also nearing the end of the paint stripping...
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:22 AM   #69
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quick question, should i put putty tape between the exterior skin and the floor c-channel before buck riveting them together? what's the best practice for sealing this connection?


been a while since i posted, but progress is being made. i'll give a more complete update soon...
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:29 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyclad View Post
Happy New Year!

i've been away from my project for a week and need to get back to it. currently i'm chewing on a few questions/issues...

is there an easier way to safely remove the asbestos tiles than a heat gun and scraper?

is it better to strip the leaded zolatone off the interior panels before or after i remove them? (if i remove them before stripping i can hire someone to do the stripping while i move forward with the rest of the work, but i don't like the idea of bringing leaded, flaking paint into the rest of my workspace)


and thinking a bit further out...

do i need to replace the belly skins? and if so is there a clever way to avoid having to remove the buck rivets around the floor line? (for example by leaving the "banana skin" section of the belly pan, cutting the rest away and adding a sheet of aluminum that runs the full length of the belly.)

with a shell-off floor replacement, it sounds like one of the biggest challenges is getting everything to line up again as you put it back together. is it possible to replace the floor and belly pan without lifting the whole shell off so as to avoid this issue?


would love to hear if any of you have suggestions about these issues.
I used a roofing shovel to remove mine. Most were loose already though.
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