Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-23-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
1961 24' Tradewind restoration .... sort of

I'll attempt to document my restoration efforts here in hopes that I illustrate either what worked or what not to do. I consider myself reasonably handy but up until about 3 weeks ago, I knew NOTHING about airstreams.

The final product will not be a fully restored AS but rather an AS used for a business purpose. So ultimately there will be a nice floor, nice shelving, solid frame, low voltage lighting and functional windows and vents.

I have made some progress already. I'll start with some pictures of how it looked when it began.

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_2238.jpg
Views:	198
Size:	52.1 KB
ID:	234838

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1429.jpg
Views:	234
Size:	345.2 KB
ID:	234839

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1445.jpg
Views:	238
Size:	189.5 KB
ID:	234840

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1446.jpg
Views:	187
Size:	242.1 KB
ID:	234841
rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2015, 05:13 AM   #2
Moderator
 
Kevin245's Avatar

 
Vintage Kin Owner
... , ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
Images: 9
That puppy could use some TLC. Keep us posted on your progress.
__________________

"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."

William C. Swinney

Kevin245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 05:47 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Today I got the two aluminum propane tanks off. The nut holding the clamp (which holds the tanks) was completely rusted on, so I had to mangle that clamp to get them off. I was able to get the coupler innards out and will be replacing them soon with a kit I bought online. We also have been able to get all the bottom inner panels off and most of the insulation removed. This showed us we had way more mice droppings behind the insulation and in the u-channel than I believed we did, so taking the time to get the inner panels off and insulation out has proven to be a good idea.

I also took the outer bottom band off (I'm sure its called something else) but it is the small aluminum strap that wraps around the front and the back at the bottom on the outside. These were blind riveted on and exposed the buck rivets which hold the shell to the u-channel.

Also, I found a large steel plate in the front right under the front window. I thought I read something about this plate somewhere else, but right now, I don't know what it is for or if it will hinder lifting the shell off.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1487.jpg
Views:	178
Size:	250.2 KB
ID:	235100   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1488.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	213.4 KB
ID:	235101  

rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2015, 06:12 PM   #4
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
Colin H's Avatar
 
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru , New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by rohayre View Post
Today I got the two aluminum propane tanks off. The nut holding the clamp (which holds the tanks) was completely rusted on, so I had to mangle that clamp to get them off. I was able to get the coupler innards out and will be replacing them soon with a kit I bought online. We also have been able to get all the bottom inner panels off and most of the insulation removed. This showed us we had way more mice droppings behind the insulation and in the u-channel than I believed we did, so taking the time to get the inner panels off and insulation out has proven to be a good idea.

I also took the outer bottom band off (I'm sure its called something else) but it is the small aluminum strap that wraps around the front and the back at the bottom on the outside. These were blind riveted on and exposed the buck rivets which hold the shell to the u-channel.

Also, I found a large steel plate in the front right under the front window. I thought I read something about this plate somewhere else, but right now, I don't know what it is for or if it will hinder lifting the shell off.
As long as you drill out all of the rivets going through that plate, it won't hinder the removal of the body. We have done this hundreds of times & you're approaching it correctly. As a side note, you'll likely find a lot more mouse evidence when you remove the rest of the interior skin.
Good luck with your project.
Colin
Colin H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2015, 07:26 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,291
Images: 1
Hi rohayre, welcome to Air Forums and the Airstream community. Rebuilding one of these old trailers is a lot of fun, and as you rightly speculate, an attention getter.

There are a lot of Airstream enthusiasts on these Forums from the Denver area. My son worked in Broomfield for many years, but now works in his home town of Golden. We have pulled our Airstream to the Denver area many times. I can tell you that Timeless Travel Trailers in Wheat Ridge could design and build you a business Airstream that would be fabulous. They are top notch trailer builders. $$$ Visit their website and see what I mean. They advertise in these Forums.

You might enjoy the Airstream Knowledge Base section in Air Forums. Find it in the lower section of the home page. This section is year and model specific. Select trailers, and then select Trade Wind, and then select your year range, like 59 to 69. Meet other folks who have done what you are wanting to do. Maybe you would enjoy starting a "full monty" thread and make entries as you progress with the tear down and rebuild. The tear down is fast, the rebuild is much, much slower.

I've been working on my 66 Trade Wind, but my project is not as extensive as yours. I'm renovating to a "travel ready" trailer with replaced major systems but still the old twin bed layout. My trailer had significant floor rot in the rear under the toilet.

David
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2015, 06:12 PM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Had to undo buck rivets around the door. Used rivet remove tool from VintageTrailerSupply.com - really seemed to help keep the bit centered, although there were some that were slightly off center.

Got the last interior panel off today, which is really three huge long panels buck riveted together. These were the ceiling panels. I have it all laying upside down right now. Hoping not to have to drill out all the buck rivets holding them together. Planning on rolling it up and getting out the front window.

Hoping to get all interior panels sandblasted (probably not sand - probably something less abrasive of course) and paint stripped and then put them right back in after figuring out the wiring, windows, vents and insulation. Anyone know how realistic it is to drop the panels off somewhere and pick them up later looking beautiful? Everything for a price right?

Turns out mice were all about the ceiling insulation. Disgusting. Chocolate sprinkles came raining down when that top panel came down.

Can someone tell me what the end cap piece housing the license plate light is not aluminum? It is all rusted.

I'm thinking about taking the wheel wells off now, in hopes that it will give me a glimpse at the frame/belly pan area. Thoughts anyone?

Also, I took out all the weather stripping for all the windows. Do the window frames simply slide out from the channel that appears to hold them? If so, is it just this one set screw which seems to hold it in?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1496.jpg
Views:	159
Size:	263.8 KB
ID:	235245   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1500.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	176.2 KB
ID:	235246  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1502.jpg
Views:	154
Size:	236.2 KB
ID:	235247   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1504.jpg
Views:	183
Size:	302.8 KB
ID:	235248  

rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2015, 06:35 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Thalweg's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Buffalo , Wyoming
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 686
Yes, the windows slide out from the channel after you remove the set screw. You have to bend the end of the rain gutters to slide past them. I had to use a little WD-40 to get mine to slide.

Did you see the message I sent you about your parts?
Thalweg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2015, 08:39 PM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Colin H.... you did the axle on this trailer last year. I have an email you sent the previous owner.
rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2015, 11:57 AM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
1967 26' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
Savannah , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 152
Wheel wells will not give you a very good look at the frame. Only real way to do that is through the belly pan or floor. There is basically a block of frame surrounding the wells. Since you pulled the cabinets, you might be able to pull the floor panel that spans between the wheel wells. It will all depend on where the panel seams fall. I know on my Overlander there is one floor panel in that area. On my Tradewind, seems to me the panel splits down the middle of the wheel wells. Another tactic some have used where the shell is not being pulled is to cut a section of the belly pan and patch it back with new material. That way you can leave the curved sections alone and just cut out part of the center. I know I was surprised at the condition of my Tradewind frame, even though I had a couple of longer term leaks. The frame was solid. My Overlander did not fare so well, and needs some welding done, even though it is 12 years newer.

On the plate holder, I had the same question! Since I am in the polish phase, I am removing it, sanding it and painting with Rustoleum to match the rear bumper and putting it back.

Michael
beatrix1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2015, 01:45 PM   #10
1 Rivet Member
 
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Longmont , Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 10
Hi rohayre, welcome to Air Forums and the Airstream community. you are making nice progress, I may go by your place and take a look at the trailer, I am near you in the Longmont area, but I am further behind that you, I am still looking for the right trailer to remodel, any thought on how to choose the right trailer?

HectoR
Hrodriguez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2015, 12:57 AM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
orignal bumper?

As I plan for the shell lift off and frame evaluation, I'm fully aware the rear of the frame has significant rust in spots, so much so the rear bumper simply rusted out and fell off when the previous owner was towing it to Colorado from Michigan. The bumper seems to be unique b/c of how it holds the spare tire. It makes me wonder if its original and thus worth repairing. Can anyone tell what they know about this bumper?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_2223.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	51.7 KB
ID:	235479  
rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2015, 05:49 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,291
Images: 1
My 66 bumper is welded on to the end of the frame channels. The belly pan extends and is attached to the bottom of the bumper forming the "bumper storage compartment". It looks similar to yours.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1406 Bumper Storage Door Open.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	193.6 KB
ID:	235515  
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2015, 05:25 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Today's progress:

- Installed the 2" marvel coupler repair kit I bought from vintagetrailersupply.com. Took 5 seconds. The old setup was missing the top latch and the spring was old and rusted out. Looks funny on rusted coupler.

- Had to roll up top, inner skin and get it out through the front window. Gee, that was a lot of fun

- Took the front end cap off, lots of mice and insect evidence in the insulation above it, plus it revealed the rest of the wiring.

- Drilled out about 1/3 of the buck rivets holding the shell to the u-channel. About 9 million more to go....

- Took the inner wheel well covers off, which allowed me to remove the rest of the insulation.

Got a full picture of the wiring. Have the following questions regarding the wiring.
- There are two cables coming up through the u-channel in the front under the front window. One clearly seems to be for the trailer exterior lights coming from the hitch. What the other one is for is still a mystery.... and what the grey wire is next to the right one is also a mystery.
- Looks like the orange wire is for 12v. The larger romex-type is obviously the 110 wiring and came from the breaker box. Some of the fixtures had both 12v and 110 wiring going to them, indicating those fixtures were able to run off both?
- The battery was mounted in the front of the trailer, behind the propane tanks. Is it true the battery is supposed to be charging while the trailer is being towed? Not sure how that works.
- I've seen a lot of talk about converters - are those used so the battery can be charged while the trailer's 110 v system is plugged in somewhere?
- Some of the smaller red wire (which is for the running lights, marker lights etc) is rolled up in spots and taped to the inside of the outer shell. Seems like they did that to store lots of extra wiring in that spot? Maybe if someone in the future planned on adding a light at that spot perhaps? Seems kind of odd.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1511.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	312.8 KB
ID:	235600   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1528.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	192.1 KB
ID:	235602  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1524.jpg
Views:	177
Size:	300.8 KB
ID:	235603   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1510.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	323.6 KB
ID:	235604  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1516.jpg
Views:	126
Size:	272.7 KB
ID:	235605  
rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2015, 06:38 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,291
Images: 1
You're making progress. The tear down takes about 10% of the time of the rebuild. You're "sort of rebuild" is turning into a major project for sure!

I might be able to answer some of your questions. Your 61 is pre "uni-volt" where Airstream ran all devices inside the trailer on 12v. So you have some 115vAC stuff, and some 12v stuff.

So here goes:

- There are two cables coming up through the u-channel in the front under the front window. One clearly seems to be for the trailer exterior lights coming from the hitch. What the other one is for is still a mystery.... and what the grey wire is next to the right one is also a mystery.
I don't know about the mystery wires. I do know you need to follow them until you know what they are and then label them as well as making a diagram. Photographs help too.

- Looks like the orange wire is for 12v. The larger romex-type is obviously the 110 wiring and came from the breaker box. Some of the fixtures had both 12v and 110 wiring going to them, indicating those fixtures were able to run off both? I am unaware of devices that can run off both 115vAC and 12vDC. Careful The wiring in my 66 contains large dia romex 2 conductor cable for 12v and similar romex for the 115v runs. 12v from the fuse box, 115v from the breaker box.

- The battery was mounted in the front of the trailer, behind the propane tanks. Is it true the battery is supposed to be charging while the trailer is being towed? Not sure how that works.
The standard "7-pin" umbilical cord from the tow vehicle contains a 12v charge wire that does indeed charge the trailer battery while towing.

- I've seen a lot of talk about converters - are those used so the battery can be charged while the trailer's 110 v system is plugged in somewhere?
Yep. The modern converter is the result of Airstream's "uni-volt" system they started about 1964 or so. The converter takes 115vAC and makes 12V DC. There is a wire from the converter to charge the battery. New style converters are three stage battery chargers so they don't over charge the battery and ruin it.

- Some of the smaller red wire (which is for the running lights, marker lights etc) is rolled up in spots and taped to the inside of the outer shell. Seems like they did that to store lots of extra wiring in that spot? Maybe if someone in the future planned on adding a light at that spot perhaps? Seems kind of odd. Pass on that one. I don't know.

Hope this helps a bit. There is a lot to learn.

David
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2015, 07:30 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar
 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
Welcome from Arvada. If you need any help do not hesitate to ask. The link below is to my long term project.
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2015, 07:52 AM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
1967 26' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
Savannah , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 152
- There are two cables coming up through the u-channel in the front under the front window. One clearly seems to be for the trailer exterior lights coming from the hitch. What the other one is for is still a mystery.... and what the grey wire is next to the right one is also a mystery.

You are correct about one coming from the tow line. The other, from the sounds of it, came from the battery that was housed in the aluminum box under the front window. There are two removable plates near the floor under the window. On mine, the one on the right (facing from inside) was the tow wiring, the one on the left was the battery line/12 volt.

- Looks like the orange wire is for 12v. The larger romex-type is obviously the 110 wiring and came from the breaker box. Some of the fixtures had both 12v and 110 wiring going to them, indicating those fixtures were able to run off both?

There are two separate lines to the fixtures. Each of the lights has two bulbs, two switches and two voltages. The kicker is the 12 volt and 110 volt bulbs have the same screw base. Usually the one on the left is 12 volt and the one on the right is 110, but do not swear to it. You can get the 12 volt standard base bulbs at just about any RV store.

- The battery was mounted in the front of the trailer, behind the propane tanks. Is it true the battery is supposed to be charging while the trailer is being towed? Not sure how that works.

There is a hot line off your tow wiring that goes to the battery but see the next answer for more info.

- I've seen a lot of talk about converters - are those used so the battery can be charged while the trailer's 110 v system is plugged in somewhere?

I got rid of what was in the trailer converter wise. Basically, for that year there is not one. It has two separate systems. You will probably find the breakers for the 110 in the rear access next to the black water tank. WAY back in. The 12 volt is a standalone system. I installed a converter that takes the 110 30 amp service and operates both the 110 and feeds the 12 volt THROUGH the house battery. That enable the 12 volt to work off the battery when you are not plugged in. It has 110 breakers and now has fuses for the 12 volt.

- Some of the smaller red wire (which is for the running lights, marker lights etc) is rolled up in spots and taped to the inside of the outer shell. Seems like they did that to store lots of extra wiring in that spot? Maybe if someone in the future planned on adding a light at that spot perhaps? Seems kind of odd.

Whoever was working that day probably had extra wire and just rolled it up. What AS put in is what was there and planned. There were not many options at the time, so really no need for the extra wire. About the only options electrically in 1961 were vent fans and A/C.
beatrix1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2015, 08:30 AM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
1967 26' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
Savannah , Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 152
Forgot to mention. Most dealers back in the 60's handled the spare tire issue. 1961 was before we had the option to store under the front of the trailer or on the tongue. Many put some sort of a "thing" on the back. I know mine had one, but you had to remove the tire to access the rear storage compartment. I had it cut off (was welded to the bumper) and a new "drop down" installed. Watch you balance though - wheels and tires are heavy. I also moved the battery to the rear compartment, so added some weight back there. But weight went into the front also, so balanced out.
beatrix1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2015, 07:22 PM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
I'm loving these forums. So much help already. Thanks everyone
rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2015, 04:47 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Today I finished drilling out the rest of the buck rivets connecting the shell to the u-channel. I used a car jack and was able to lift the back end up about 1/2", just to see that it would separate, which it did. I tried to do the same to the front and it didn't lift right off, so I didn't force it.

I drilled out the 24 buck rivets holding the front steel plate to the shell. I had to assume that plate is connected to the frame, but I can't see that yet b/c the belly pan is still in the way. There were also a couple which went through the plate and also through the u-channel.

I tried to slide something between the shell and the u-channel all the way around to ensure things have been separated. I did not have a putty knife with me, so I was only sort of able to pry the shell a little. Anyway, the front corners seem to be tight.

I've read and read about bracing and some say you don't need any of it and some seem to really go all out with it. Seems to me I'll had just enough bracing to make the shell hold its shape, not necessarily to assist with the lift. I'm thinking when its time to put the shell back on, having it in the same shape might save a lot of headache.

I also drilled out the buck rivets around the wheel wells. These seem to hold the shell to the inner wheel well as well as a piece of trim which gives it a rounded look. I have it pulled down from shell and wheel well but still attached to belly pan in the pic.

I also removed the copper propane line which ran under the belly pan and up through the floor in three different places. Looks like the belly pan used to have small straps that held this line up against the belly pan, but those were worn through. I'll get a better look when I can finally see the belly pan.

I have also included another photo of the bumper, which is in two pieces, and rusted its way off the frame.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1536.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	404.4 KB
ID:	235749   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1535.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	716.9 KB
ID:	235750  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1534.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	143.0 KB
ID:	235751   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1533.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	276.5 KB
ID:	235752  

rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
Shell lift off

Today we found about 8 hidden rivets. Where the center section of the outer panels overlapped the end panels right at the last rib (so at each of the four corners so to speak) is where the hidden rivets were located. We also found some where the belly pan was riveted through the u-channel and into one of the ribs.

I used a floor jack to push up on the ceiling, spanning several ribs. There were times where I added pressure hoping the only thing that was still holding was the sealant between the outer panels and the belly pan. In reality, there were still a few hidden rivets I had not found yet. So the moral of that story is, if you're lifting with any significant pressure and things aren't coming right up, STOP and continue to investigate cause chances are you missed a rivet somewhere. My u-channel got a bit bent, very slightly. If you think it should be lifting and its not, stop and find the offending rivet(s).

I was able to lift the back up enough to get a beam across, the lift the front the same way. I used 9' teardrop pallet beams to span the shell and the beams are sitting on cinder blocks stacked up.

I did use some bracing to keep the general shape of the shell, in hopes that when its time to put the shell back on, it will have the same shape. I did not lift not the bracing, I lifted on the ceiling against two ribs. I've seen lots and lots of threads where people simply lift using grantries the ceiling vents, essentially lifting on the ceiling ribs anyway.

Next step is to lift it just a bit higher so the wheel wells will clear when I drive the frame out.

The only thing that seems a bit odd - I have the beams placed directly underneath the end ribs, so the bottom of the rib is sitting on the beam - BUT - to a certain extent, the outer shell is also sitting directly on the beam as well. I'm wondering if the shell will bend right where its sitting on the beams? We will see
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1555.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	264.6 KB
ID:	236148   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1553.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	323.6 KB
ID:	236149  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1552.jpg
Views:	149
Size:	305.2 KB
ID:	236150   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1556.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	311.0 KB
ID:	236151  

rohayre is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1961


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1961 Bambi :: 1961 novus1 Airstream Registry Discussions 0 05-22-2012 06:53 PM
1961 BAMBI :: 1961 Airstream BAMBI DUNSKI Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 08:31 AM
Back from the dead sort of till Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 5 09-29-2005 10:01 AM
Forum Rally....sort of InsideOut Forum Rallies & Meet Ups 9 07-20-2004 05:33 PM
Membership Sort MrTimbo Our Community 1 04-10-2003 04:27 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.