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04-12-2015, 06:52 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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Very good. You are well on your way. Interesting note on lifting from the formers, or ribs, at the ceiling, but doing so with a jack on the floor. I would think this would be the same as using a hoist and gantry through a roof vent. '
It looks like your shell is well braced to hold it's shape while "flimsy" and unattached to the subfloor and frame.
It won't be long before you turn the corner and start rebuilding instead of tearing it apart. Rebuilding takes a long time, so be patient.
David
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04-18-2015, 09:34 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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Today I jacked up the shell a bit further so the wheel wells would clear when I pulled the trailer out from underneath it. If I were smarter, I would not have stacked the cinder blocks (which the beams rest on which the shell sits on) so close to the frame. I would have moved them as far apart as possible, b/c when I went to drive the trailer out from under it, I had to be very careful so the trailer wouldn't bump the cinder blocks. Finally, I jacked one corner up and moved the cinder blocks out further. Good learning point.
The belly pan wraps up and is riveted to the outside portion of the u-channel. It does NOT wrap up an over the top. I mention that b/c I have seen others mention that was the case with their trailer.
The belly pan was mostly riveted with pop rivets but did have some buck rivets too. When the belly pan came down, a sizable amount of insulation, leaves, 50 years worth of gunk/dirt and debris. Some insulation too and some evidence of critters, but no huge nests and no dead bodies.
I did not get a chance to see the frame yet. Next step, take up the floor and get a look at the frame.
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04-19-2015, 05:36 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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It is interesting to see how Airstream changed their thinking on the aluminum skins for our trailers. The side skins on my 66 wrap down and are attached to the flat belly pan skins. There is a strap of thin steel sheet metal where the wrap and the belly pan are joined together with rivets.
I have the more common separate "belly wraps" on my 86. They are just short pieces of aluminum wrapped around about an 8" radius that are attached to the C channel and then attached again to the frame rail underneath. The separate piece likely makes manufacturing easier and quicker.
So now you have an old, flimsy trailer frame to rebuild. Maybe your 61 has a Dura Torq axle? If not, maybe it should be. I think 61 was the first year Airstream started using the Dura Torq concept instead of leaf springs.
The frame is flimsy by itself, gets stronger with the subfloor attached, and gets stronger yet with the body attached. Semi monocoque. Each piece adds strength, none of it is adequate by itself.
Keep us posted on your progress...
David
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04-20-2015, 07:35 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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Frame rust
Today I used a 1" hole saw to drill around the elevator bolts that hold the floor down to the frame. I got the floor all the way up and for the first time got a look at the frame. The hole saw seemed to be way way better than trying to cut off the bolts or to cut up the floor. Now I have all the original pieces to use as templates for the next floor.
The frame is basically a disaster in the back, completely gone in the back right corner, which is where the bathroom was. Next step, use an angle grinder with a cut off disc to cut the elevator bolts and then use the angle grinder with a steel wire cup (or whatever you call it) to get as much surface rust off.
They put a small amount of insulation between the frame and the floor boards. I think I need to do some research on these forums to understand why and if I need to try and replicate that when I put a new floor down.
Can anyone/everyone comment on the state of this frame? I'll probably have to show closer photos for anyone to know for sure. I believe it will take some obvious welding, but it salvageable.
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04-21-2015, 05:19 AM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
1967 26' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
Savannah
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 152
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Ouch on the frame. I will let others comment on that. The insulation is easy. When they installed the insulation at the factory, they laid the bats over the full length of the frame and put the floor on top of it, compressing the insulation between the frame and floor. It was basically a time saving method of installing the insulation. It also kept it up against the bottom of the floor and from sagging onto the belly pan. There are lots of strings about insulation and use of different kinds. You do not need to replicated what they did back in 1961.
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04-21-2015, 05:35 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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Wow, you have the skeleton of an old Airstream laying in your driveway! You have done a lot of hard work.
There are several threads where the frame was built from new using the old as a pattern. Here is one I like linked below. There are welding shops / metal fabricators that can do it with out much difficulty. There are Airstream frame pieces available on line, such as outriggers and cross members.
It's easy for me to spend your money, but looking at your frame, I wonder if new wouldn't be the best route.
David
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...on-122890.html
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04-22-2015, 09:04 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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Today I used an angle grinder with a steel brush/cup and removed a large amount of rust. I also used a grinding disc in places where I needed to be a bit more aggressive. I was very happy with the results. It looks like this frame is in very decent shape. I believe, except for a few small spots, the majority of the frame is very strong.
I ground off all the rust I could see and then applied Metal Ready with a spray bottle. The difference was very noticeable.
There is still a large amount of welding that needs to be done to the rear. That comes next.
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04-23-2015, 06:01 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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It sure looks better without the rust. I know how dirty and time comsuming it is to wire brush the frame. I did mine laying on my back.
So if it looks solid (except for that rear corner) and you don't see any cracks at the A frame and around the axle mount areas, you're gonna be fine.
David
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04-25-2015, 09:09 PM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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David or Aerowood,
Do either of you by chance have photos of how my frame is supposed to look in the back? Or where I might find such photos? The last 5-6 feet of the frame is a mess…. but oddly I think the rest of the frame is pretty solid. The rear area rusted off long ago, so I don’t know exactly how the beams, cross beams and bumper all connect and interact. I've reached the point of figuring out what needs to be done to the frame, so first I need to understand how it should look, so I can wrap my head around what needs to happen.
Aerowood.... any good ideas on where/who can do frame work/welding here in the Denver area?
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04-26-2015, 07:02 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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There are some threads showing the frame of a sixties Trade Winds.
Here is one enthusiastic vintage Airstream rebuilder that has some photos of his 68, with and without the foam insulation. See post #30.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...al-129453.html
There have been significant changes since 61. I think yours was the first year of the Dura Torq axles, of which some were welded on.
I'll try to remember another one. I've seen pictures of frames, but I wonder if they have enough detail to help you. My rear bumper is welded to the frame rails. There is the infamous angle iron that the rear of the body bolts to. And the outriggers need to mirror the good side of your frame. Your body and C-channel dictate how the frame will be.
I didn't remove my shell, just replaced the rear 42" of subfloor under the bath. This is the best picture I could find of the rear of my frame. At least you can see the rear cross member.
David
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04-26-2015, 01:50 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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I forgot about ol' PaducahCat. He's building a 64 Overlander. He has some good frame pictures, try post #42.
David
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f368...ml#post1612900
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06-18-2015, 12:28 PM
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#32
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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For those still viewing this thread, I think we are going to have to part ways with the AS. Life changed all the sudden and I don’t think I’ll have the time. If you know of anyone who may be interested in buying, let me know.
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06-19-2015, 04:36 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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Hi,
Take some pictures as is and post them in the Classifieds of these Air Forums. I think crazy people are always looking for vintage project trailers. Take pictures, describe the trailer. There is a chance someone may be interested.
David
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07-26-2015, 04:09 PM
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#34
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2 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 22
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The shell and frame have been sold. I still have the fridge, stove, sink, toilet, wood, interior fiber glass endcaps and some light fixtures. Anyone interested, let me know asap as I'm now very motivated to get rid of these items.
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