Originally Posted by hahn_rossman
After some more poking and probing it's clear that the umbilical goes into the bellypan right next to the frame rail and immediately goes up thru the floor into the space between the inner and outer shell.
So for the trip home I ran a circuit all the way back to the electric brakes, and will have to think long and hard about removing all the interior furniture, and then drill out a thousand pop rivets to remove the inner skin.
I can't see another way to fix the wiring?
On a positive note, the snow storm seems to have blown thru, and we leave for Denver at the crack of dawn.
My 57 Sovereign
of the Road also has one axle with electric brakes & one axle with hydraulic brakes. This was done as a safety measure, as the trailer did not have a "house" battery built into the system to allow an electric "breakaway" switch to be activated. The electric brake axle was used to stop the trailer during normal circumstances. The hydraulically activated axle was used in the event of a breakaway situation, & activated using a hydraulic master cylinder mounted on the tongue. There would have been a flip down lever hinged near the front of the cylinder. This lever would be connected to the tow vehicle with a small chain. When this chain was pulled, the lever would come down, depressing the master cylinder, sending hydraulic fluid to the wheel cylinders & applying the brakes. I have seen this system on mid to late 50's tandem axle Airstream's.
Don't despair about having to remove the interior skins to fix your running lamp wiring. Your trailer is likely infested with many generations of mice, the insulation is inferior & riddled with tunnels & feces. Removing all of this, pressure washing the interior of the walls etc etc etc, as noted on many threads will ultimately give you a wonderful trailer that you will be proud of for the rest of your life.
Good luck with your project,