1956 Bubble Restoration Start to Finish

[Melody Ranch]

Take the lock box to the hardware store. Over the years the brass part that the square stock fits into wears and gets sloppy. I found that key stock was what worked...very close...then I used a small triangle file to square off the corners in the brass for a tight fit. The big problem is then finding the right place to drill a hole for the roll pin to hold the lock in place. Shimmed with a few washers worked. Then figuring the final length of the bar so that you can fit it all together within the door. It was a time consuming job.

[the544man]

I've have the dinette planned out so it should be done by the end of the week. I'm in the process of thinking and rethinking how i want to run my pex water lines and where i'll place my pump--i'm thinking of putting the pump under the sink since it's smaller and i can keep the other hatch by the wheel well on the fridge side gear-free. it's a challenge to process the whole project at once even though i have my plans on paper--when you get around to driling holes you want to take your time!

[the544man]

here's an attatchment of the dinette profile. I'm needing to keep the sides tight as i need acces on the fridge cabinet side for access to the the ac and 12v system fuse box. And obviously the sides of the dinette will go with the radius of the trailer walls. It's coming along.
dinette end.pdf

[the544man]

I have wasted alot of time going through hundreds of wall sconces that won't work in an airstream-- in my mind--or at least in my bubble. I thought i'd easily find a brushed nickel sconce with a small reveal that i'd like that i could convert to 12 volt. But the ones i like either have a weird bulb that can't be converted to 12 volt, the projection from the wall is too great, or they seem like they would break the second trip out with my kids. Most houshold style light fixtures, even the smaller sconces are too big. And I don't want those 10 buck plastic ones that the rv shops sell either. So tonight i thought 'd entertain a crazy idea--I came across some nautical lights when searching online that can also be purchased in raw alluminum finish (expensive but cool). no pics available in aluminum i guess but here are other exanples:

This one is 7 1/2 " round with a 4 1/2" projection from the wall.


this second one is 5" wide, 8 1/2" tall, and also 4 1/2" projection.


They might be tad too large for such a small trailer?--but they gradually get to their deepest projection since they have a rounded lens. The plus side is that they would be extreamely durable, give a retro-industrial look, and give more light than the tiny 12 v minibulbs. vintage trailer sells screw- in 12 volt bulbs for retrofitting normal house fixtures. I'm just fooling around with the idea since all of my option are open. This second one might look better horizontal as the wood trim near the front dinette all flows with the panels of the nose of the trailer. I have to keep in mind that the two lights up front near the dinette will be 6 " or so above your head when sitting. So it's a challenge of uplighting that's bright enough or flat lighting that doesn't knock your head when you get in. has anyone used lights like these. I think they might look trick in alluminum--which would carry the bling from the alluminum edge-banding around the countertops, seating, and table. I wish i had one i could just hold up on the wall. Any more ideas out there?

I still havn't found what i'm looking for--but in a weird way i like this look. who knows what i'll end up with!

[Silverfoxrae]

I use nautical lighting often. This company used to carry some of the nicest quality lights available. You might find what you're looking for with them!
Expensive but the real deal- nothing cheesy.
Rae

Originally Posted by the544man

I have wasted alot of time going through hundreds of wall sconces that won't work in an airstream-- in my mind--or at least in my bubble. I thought i'd easily find a brushed nickel sconce with a small reveal that i'd like that i could convert to 12 volt. But the ones i like either have a weird bulb that can't be converted to 12 volt, the projection from the wall is too great, or they seem like they would break the second trip out with my kids. Most houshold style light fixtures, even the smaller sconces are too big. And I don't want those 10 buck plastic ones that the rv shops sell either. So tonight i thought 'd entertain a crazy idea--I came across some nautical lights when searching online that can also be purchased in raw alluminum finish (expensive but cool). no pics available in aluminum i guess but here are other exanples:

This one is 7 1/2 " round with a 4 1/2" projection from the wall.
Attachment 103726

this second one is 5" wide, 8 1/2" tall, and also 4 1/2" projection.
Attachment 103727

They might be tad too large for such a small trailer?--but they gradually get to their deepest projection since they have a rounded lens. The plus side is that they would be extreamely durable, give a retro-industrial look, and give more light than the tiny 12 v minibulbs. vintage trailer sells screw- in 12 volt bulbs for retrofitting normal house fixtures. I'm just fooling around with the idea since all of my option are open. This second one might look better horizontal as the wood trim near the front dinette all flows with the panels of the nose of the trailer. I have to keep in mind that the two lights up front near the dinette will be 6 " or so above your head when sitting. So it's a challenge of uplighting that's bright enough or flat lighting that doesn't knock your head when you get in. has anyone used lights like these. I think they might look trick in alluminum--which would carry the bling from the alluminum edge-banding around the countertops, seating, and table. I wish i had one i could just hold up on the wall. Any more ideas out there?

I still havn't found what i'm looking for--but in a weird way i like this look. who knows what i'll end up with!

[the544man]

i see that your link didn't come through rae--what company are you referring to me? regards--ted

[Gator113]

What a charming trailer. I look forward to seeing the finished project.

[Silverfoxrae]

Originally Posted by the544man

i see that your link didn't come through rae--what company are you referring to me? regards--ted

I really don't know how to send links I guess

I was referring to Imtra. They have a lot of great lighting choices & ideas.
Rae

[Gator113]

Originally Posted by Silverfoxrae

I really don't know how to send links I guess

I was referring to Imtra. They have a lot of great lighting choices & ideas.
Rae

Marine Lighting - IMTRA Marine Products

[the544man]

We had a great day today. Murray and I were able to get the dinette seatbacks mitered in nice and tight to the wall, the tolerance for the table when in closed position is sweet, you can see that the back is squared off so a 2' X 18" seat coushin will fit nicely, and the two coushins will finish off the bed when the table's lowered. The grain of the backs goes with the trailer sides so that after they are stained it will flow nicely. A 6'4" man can still fit end to end in the dinette bed--Lila (my daughter) will have no trouble fitting in at 4'! I shaped the dinette seats so there's extra room for you feet near the floor. I'm not as fond of the square box versions out there.

There's a piano hinge on the seat so I have access under both and we are putting in a hatch next to the door with a framed panel just like the rest of the cabinetry--that piece is in the clamps and drying right now. I thought it would be a great place to put stuff that you want to grab from outside without getting in the trailer. Maybe bbq stuff, other supplies, who knows...


I cleaned up the area under the table with the oak veneer--it will be smooth after the staining. Here's a a shot of the nice rounded piece of oak that the table rests on-- i also like the rounded off joint behind your knees too. with the future 4"-5 " seat coushin--the dinette is at comfortable sitting position.

[the544man]

you can see the cutout in the lower cab by the fridge where the electrical box is going--that's my next job.

the cabinet over the fridge side is done, but i keep it loose and the drawers and doors off for easy access underneath--and the counter top is getting closer to being prepped.

I plumbed all of the propane earlier this week. I used 1/2" copper tubing and flared the ends. I had my flexible lines at the appliance end custom made by Neil and the boys at Fluid Connectors. No leaks in the system! Sweet! This propane junction on the door side goes to the princess stove above and i have a shutoff valve leading to a future portable catalytic heater that will toasty up the buble bungalo in the fall. After finding no leaks i fired up the new stove and the fridge--both are running great.

It's starting to look like a trailer wouldn't you say! I need to make a final decsion on the formica top so i can send the stove and sink home for good.
By the way--i ran into a air-forum fellow riding his bike down the road in my hometown today while i was working on the trailer. that was cool--I'ts funny that he found me on the web first and has been watching the progress--thanks for stopping to talk.

[Blue Pearl]

Just found your thread, great looking little bubble.

[fastrob]

Originally Posted by the544man

I plumbed all of the propane earlier this week. I used 1/2" copper tubing and flared the ends. I had my flexible lines at the appliance end custom made by Neil and the boys at Fluid Connectors. No leaks in the system! Sweet! This propane junction on the door side goes to the princess stove above and i have a shutoff valve leading to a future portable catalytic heater that will toasty up the buble bungalo in the fall. After finding no leaks i fired up the new stove and the fridge--both are running great.

Just went through your thread, nice, thanks.
Beautiful workmanship!

Did you recieve some advise about the 1/2" copper gas supply lines vs 3/8"?
Noticed on another page you asked but no one answered.

Now that you about done are you going to get a bigger one to work on???

[the544man]

Hey I appreciate all of your responses and kind words out there. It makes it very rewarding to learn and share with others. I appreciate you all--thanks.

and fastrob--i didn't recieve input on the gas lines so I went with the 1/2" copper merely because the original under the trailer was 1/2" too. I probably could have reused it--but why do that when you're redoing the trailer top to bottom anyway. 50 year old propane lines should be replaced in my opinion anyway--I am only guessing that having 1/2" as the under the trailer supply makes sure flow will never be an issue if everything was burning at high all at once. I don't think it would have been an issue for me in a small trailer. i did have to add a few reducer fittings to bring the lines down to 3/8" to the appliances--but nothing crazy. All is well.

biggger trailer? nah--i'd hate to have to buy a big rig to pull it! A friend offered a well beat up silver streak to me for free--but now perhaps half way through rebuilding my bubble--i easily see what it would take in man hours and cash=ola (easily beyond $15,000) to rebuild the free one.

Sometimes free is just too much! even though, i did go out and look at it out of curiosity and alluminum fever. I suppose i could always take a generous finder's fee for it if someone would want to purchase it from him. If it were not such a basket case--i would drag it home. wisdom and common sense kiss.

[the544man]

A couple folks wanted to see some things up close. here's a couple shots. Here we have a look at the dinette back "square off", the paneling near a window, the dinette seat front, and the end cap interior. cheers.
after staining the dinette, the back edge and "arm" will get trimmed in 3/4" alluminum banding like the rest of the countertop and table. The 1" hole in the flip top--is for lifting the seat hatch.

[the544man]

--this is my most recent pick for a counter top formica next to a piece of wall material and flooring--it's a lighter tanish glazed look. My earlier bronzed speckled sample was just too dark. I will have to go get some more samples for seat coverings again as well --i want to keep them on the lighter side to obsorb less light. One challenge with the woody interior look is that only warm colors seem to work. The loud 50's stuff just doesn't look right at all with the panelled walls and certain colors really clash with the warm orangy glow of the interior. I want to figure this out soon so i can permately install the sink and get my drain finished.

[the544man]

I have the small 12 gallon tank plumbed in. I'm using the original fill port from the exterior. You can see that the tank fits right next to the fill inlet under the fridge side cabinet. I'll install a right angle brass fitting on the outlet and run the 1/2" pex line tight to the wall back around and under the future rear bed. I've decided to put the water pump right under the sink as i've brought in a "campground fed" water line in through the floor that will link in between the pump and bar faucet.

[bobfowler]

This trailer looks fantastic! Your design is top notch. Congratulations!

[the544man]

thanks for the encouragement. I have a question for everyone. What do you think is better? I'm thinking of building a very light support system for the rear bed and using a bit heavier 3/4" plywood as the bed so there is not a lot of flex. I like a sturdy bed. Or opition 2: I realize i could go with 5/8" ply but then it would need more support inside and I would perhaps end up with a bit more clumbsy storage area. Seems like the weight differences would even out either way don't you think? any thoughts on that? I'm going to have under bed access from the exterior hatch and an interior hatch. cheers--ted

[the544man]

I made a strap out of some rigid alluminum yesterday. 2 screws at each point to the floor and rivoted together at the brace intersection--pretty easy but kind of a a fun and cool thing to make. i like how it holds the tank solid-- so that in the future--when it's full and weighs 96lbs and i'm flying down the road--I don't want any movement or jarring to stress the fittings. the cabinet side slides back to the wall and flush to the end of the tank so no strapping is needed to keep it from going in that direction.

then it took a right angled brass pex fitting and plumbed in a shutoff valve before sending the pex line to the rear of the trailer. It was easy to make 2 small notches in the back of the cabinet so the pex line can be attatched to the trailer wall. I've seen that alot of people put their water lines on the floor-- i'd rather have it out of the way of the storage under the cabinets and especially in the big hatch in the rear. I'm keeping it down far enough that it won't interfere with the build of the rear bed. I will be giving up the small area under the sink when the water pump is hooked up on the floor. but the rest will be clutter free. cheers--friends!