We travel on pretty rough dirt roads on our fishing trips. Is there any way to get better ground clearance on a '04 19' Bambi? Frequently, there are tire ruts on the road with lots of rocks in the middle to take out and scrape up the goods underneath.
I had a similar exp with my Bambi in the u.p. of MI. I just went really, really, really slow and I took most of the ruts on an angle. You have to be careful of the tank discharge in the back. It tends to have some close calls.
Also I brought along some 2x6s to place in some of the ruts.
There has been some discussion about flipping the axle on other travel trailers to obtain an extra 2"-4" of ground clearance. I haven't heard any discussion about this being possible on the Bambi. The dealer said not to do it becasue it would possibly alter the towability of the trailer. He wasn't even sure if it was possible at all, and that's where we left it with him. I'm particularly concerned when the dirt road turns into a narrow cliffside road on my way to this hidden fishing spot that took me years and years to figure out. This portion of road is strewn with ruts and rocks bigger than your fist, and rocks fall from the cliff onto the road frequently which you'd have to clear. To have the Bambi parked in the flat spot next to the pool where the big ones are would be sublime, and well worth raising the ground clearance on the Bambi. I'm dubious that driving slowly, although it would help as we pick our way along, and avoiding the high spots, would work.
The DuraTorque axle, unlike the straight or dropped axles used by many other manufacturers does not lend itself to modification of mounting. Reading the information on Inland RV's site about the Dura Torque may answer some of your questions regarding this particular axle:
The other issue that you would encounter with a nearly new coach is the likelihood that such modifications would result in voiding the manufacturer's warranty.
Typically when you read of axles being flipped or spring mounts being changed to gain clearance on an Airstream it involves a pre-1960s trailer that had a straight dropped axle with leaf spring suspension rather than the Dura Torque axle(s) that were adopted in the 1960s.
Kevin
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Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
I knew I came to the right place for the information I needed. Thanks for your replies. It might be time to search out another fishing hole that is more accessible...or hike a mile or two.
How much tire clearance do you have - can you put a taller (not wider) tire on it? Two other ideas - if possible, you could put air bags on the axle- and pump up for the rough stuff gaining the sag inherent in the beginning of the axle travel - however, you probably would "lock out" your axle, making for a very stiff ride for the trailer over the bumps.
The dura torq is bolted to the chassis- it might be possible to weld a lengths of square tubing to the bottom of the chassis rails, and then bolt the axle to this. Again, one does not know what that would do to the towability of the trailer - it would raise its CG above where it is now.
One last idea is to skid plate the bottom of the trailer from the front to the back (attaching to the frame, not the bellypan). Just "slide" over the bumps!
Good luck with the spot!
Marc
I didn't think that air bags were possible given that the trailers use torsen axles, plus, even if you could place a skid plate on teh bottom you'd still have the exterior dump plumbing to contend with coming up and down at certain angles.
The tire idea isn't bad, but it's been my exp that the ruts in some of these dirt/gravel roads can be pretty bad. You'd need some really tall tires and I am not sure they will fit all that well in to the wheel wells unless you do some serious mods....
Eric
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Now, I haven't seen any personally, but Dexter does mention some for their brand of "Torsen flex" axles - I'm not sure if they'd work the Hensions, but, an idea nonetheless.
If the ruts are THAT deep that they'd take out the plumbing even with skidplates, I guess I'd forget the trailer - the twisting would work wonders on the bodyshell. I'd like to see an Airstream Hummer edition
But really, I've seen some of the pictures that Wally (Gyum!!) and his carvan went through, and I'd think, with some careful pulling, the shorter trailer could probably get through almost anything a non-modified truck could get through. Some of the trailers (24 ft +) were "lowcentered" on the front and rear bumpers in the dunes of Egypt, and just pulled through with their Dodge Powerwagons. That's some serious off roading! Empty the tanks, and just slide that trailer through.
Marc
Get creative. Forget about messing around under the trailer. I picture a cylinder of helium mounted between propane tanks with a hose leading to a small blimp mounted on top. Inflate and float over the ruts. Just make sure you've got your safety chains on.
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"would you rather have a mansion full of money or a trailer full of love?"
Janet. You obviously have Rockdocked! The ONLY answer that you can offer when off the asphalt road. Excellent advice. Reread Janet's entry on the forum.
I would be more concerned with high centering the trailer bumper or tow hitch when crossing a creek or small ravine, which is not a major concern with a 19 footer. A deep rutted road is traveled by running your trailer off the ruts. The trailer tires track outside the tow vehicle's tire tracking. You have to watch for "bush whacking" on the sides of the trailer when off center. The best alternative to finding your way on a rutted road is to have a "spotter" watching the clearance. Your spare tire will be the first indication you need to STOP. Dirt is more forgiving than a gravel/bouldered dirt road.
Experience will be your teacher. If you tend to hit boulders in the road, high spots, loose lumber on the highway and have not developed a sense of clearance, take it easy for awhile. I have seen too many "been doing this for years so buzz off with the advice" leaving expensive parts on their trips. Look for tow hitch grooves in the dirt or spots where others have been dragging their trailers.
The AS has a low center of gravity when "watered up". Jacking the trailer up with any new axle will still leave you with the axle dragging. Your wheels determine the maximum clearance... Since the AS plumbing is on the driver's side, you watch that side very closely. The majority of other low clearance "parts and pieces" can be more forgiving.
Janet. You obviously have Rockdocked! The ONLY answer that you can offer when off the asphalt road. Excellent advice. Reread Janet's entry on the forum.
I would be more concerned with high centering the trailer bumper or tow hitch when crossing a creek or small ravine, which is not a major concern with a 19 footer. A deep rutted road is traveled by running your trailer off the ruts. The trailer tires track outside the tow vehicle's tire tracking. You have to watch for "bush whacking" on the sides of the trailer when off center. The best alternative to finding your way on a rutted road is to have a "spotter" watching the clearance. Your spare tire will be the first indication you need to STOP. Dirt is more forgiving than a gravel/bouldered dirt road.
Experience will be your teacher. If you tend to hit boulders in the road, high spots, loose lumber on the highway and have not developed a sense of clearance, take it easy for awhile. I have seen too many "been doing this for years so buzz off with the advice" leaving expensive parts on their trips. Look for tow hitch grooves in the dirt or spots where others have been dragging their trailers.
The AS has a low center of gravity when "watered up". Jacking the trailer up with any new axle will still leave you with the axle dragging. Your wheels determine the maximum clearance... Since the AS plumbing is on the driver's side, you watch that side very closely. The majority of other low clearance "parts and pieces" can be more forgiving.
Good luck and keep Rockdocking.
The position of the axle "torsion arm" actually dictates maximum ground clearance.
Ground cleance can be increased by increasing the starting angle of the torsion arm.
Airstream used 22 1/2 starting angles.
In time, that decreases to zero, or even less, by the torsion arm going uphill.
We replace the axles with a starting angle of 35 degrees.
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