What is your Brake Controller of Choice?

[John]

I was amazed at how many other RV forums have this same debate going on.

A couple of people have used both types and the main difference that I read was that the Prodigy doesn't really help you out on ice, as the Jordan will.

Other than that, there was some talk about being stopped on a steep incline/decline and that the Prodigy didn't hold the trailer brakes as well as the Jordan did.

Again, this was from 2 people who had both units.

Interesting note: out of 27 people who have polled so far, 21 Prodigy- 6 Jordan.

All I can say is that if it wasn't for this thread, Thanks Kevin, I still would have been using that sorry Reese Brakeman controller with malfunctioning brakes. I, being a novice when 1st heading out, just thought that's how the trailer brakes were.

Thanks to all for helping me to becomer a safer Airstreamer-John

[Pick]

John, I would suspect that more people would be buying Jordan's if they were sold at trailer and RV supply/service centers. Everybody seems to carry the Tekonsha line. The fact that you have to "seek out" Jordan, and either order on the web, or call them, surely contributes to the reason you see more Prodigy than Jordan. Most people "want it now!", and don't want to take the time to search for a better or different product. I also suspect quite a few folks don't feel they have the skill level or tools to install the Jordan.

[John]

Jordan Ultima 2020 update:

What a major difference from the Reese Brakeman. The Jordan Ultima 2020 is awesome. No jerky feeling. The truck and trailer now stop as one unit.

It didn't matter if I slammed on the brakes(panic stop) or got on them litely, the response is the same.

I would recommend this controller to anyone who's thinking of upgrading.

Also, the installation was a breeze. The instructions are very clear and straight forward.

John

[John]

While driving up to Mystic Springs(McDavid,FL), it was down pouring and the Jordan response to how much brake peddle that I applied was right on the money. I didn't have to adjust it at all.

While coming across a two-lane road in LA, a car pulled right out in front of me and I had to get on the brakes hard to prevent from hitting her. Again the Jordan kept the trailer leading the truck and I stopped very quickly and in a very controlled manner. I would of nailed her with the Reese.

While driving thru some small towns, there was some stop and go traffic due to the number of traffic lights and again, there was no need to adjust the Jordan. This is one of the differences that I've noticed between the Jordan and the Reese, that the Reese needed adjusting while in city traffic and the Jordan does not.

Also I had to drive on a couple of sections of Interstate Hwy's to catch my connecting route and the Jordan felt very smooth and proportional while coming off the exit ramps.

So all-in-all, the Jordan performed great. I set it once prior to leaving and didn't feel a need to adjust it any further. There is zero/no jerky feeling at all. It held well while stopped on a steep decline. It didn't matter if I was light on the brakes or hard, the trailer stopped equally as well. It's like the trailers not even there.

I drove 55mph up & back from BC because I knew that my braking distance with the Reese was long. I also knew that the Reese wouldn't stop me in a panic stop. The drive was enjoyable, but not relaxing as I was always on the lookout for trouble(much more than normal).

But now with the Jordan, I drive at 60mph on the two-lane back roads with complete confidence that I'm going to be able to stop and control my trailer. This in itself is worth the $140 bucks. So if any of you are thinking of upgrading or changing your brake controllers, I highly recommend the Jordan Ultima 2020.

Truly enjoying Airstreaming-John

[Chas]

I yanked out my old Tekonsha last weekend after someone pulled in front of me on my first test run after redoing my brakes on my Overlander, fitting huh? It was probably the hardest stop I had ever done, the front tires on my F-250 locked up ( non-ABS) and I slid hard and straight for what seemed like forever until my trailer brakes finally kicked in with a healthy clunk. They hit so hard all at once that I thought someone else had rear ended me as well. The braking delay on the trailer was horrible. After gaining my composure, dispensing my full collection of profanities at the other driver, (she heard all of them!!) I pm'd John and asked for his opinion, (I hadn't kept up with this thread), and he said the Jordan Ultima was the ticket. Couldn't find one here locally, the wired in Jordans yes but not the cable actuated version which is the Ultima. Ordered it from the factory, 2nd day UPS, got it and installed it today. Not the easiest to install, you don't want to kink the cable too much, I did and had to relocate it. Haven't pulled with it yet but will soon and will post my user review here.

Chas

[59toaster]

WOW what a great thread! I will soon be making a decision on a controler (as soon as I find the right truck to put it in).
My one truck has a old Kelsey Hays Hydraulic in it and it appears to function fine. The truck however is not a good choice for the trailer (something about the 35 inch tires, 7ft tall, Detroit locker, 106 inch wheel base). I may test it out if I can figure out how to overcome my hitch hight problem. I also have a second Kelsey in a box that I was thinking about using on the new tow rig. I'm starting to get sold on this Jordan. The jordan ultima by all accounts act's like a hydraulic without having to mess with the hydraulic part. I fully understand the advantages and disadvantage after reading this thread. Thanks

NOW MY RANT ON ABS.
ABS is a patch for poor driving skills. I have on two seperate GM vehicles pulled the plug on ABS modual because I felt they were extremely dangerious. The danger came from the FACT that GM uses mostly a archaic single channel ABS system. This means that if one wheel locks the system responds by releasing brake presure on ALL wheels.
I use to do a LOT of driving for my job and I have on 2 occasions had an issue where a single rear wheel lost traction on loose crud on the edge of the road and almost caused me to have an accident that I wouldn't have had any problem if the ABS had not been there. It is a very sick feeling to be going 15-20mph under steady braking approching a busy intersection and feel that ABS kick in and release the brakes. This would not have happed on a 4 channel ABS vehicle because it would have only released pressure on the single wheel that lost traction.
If you have a GM vehicle please be aware of this very serious design flaw that is on most GM vehicles made from the late 80's to possibly the current line of vehicles. I know that some fords also have simular single channel ABS. There are pending lawsuits over these design problems from others that were in simular situations and the ABS caused the wrecks.
END of rant
You can all go back to what you were doing.

[Pick]

59, I don't know which system my 2000 has, but I like it, and feel safer with it. Just last week a car stopped dead in front of me because of an accident. Because of the ABS, I was able to slow down, and maintain my steering, enabling me to avoid a rear end collision. I ended up in a ditch instead, but was able to drive out of it in 4WD. I know when ABS kicks in, you get this sinking feeling you are not going to stop, but I like being able to maintain control of the vehicle during those situations. I almost rolled a pickup truck ('85) because it DIDN'T have ABS. One of the rear wheels locked up during a panic stop, on a dangerous curve.

[Rickk48]

Gotta say the ABS on my Rover works great. I had to make a quick stop on dirt (sand) road in the desert last weekend, and the ABS kicked in, I was able to keep control of Rover and Bambi to a complete stop.

[Silvertwinkie]

Pick,

The 7.4L is the 454 no?

BTW, I have the Voyager and it does need adjustment all the time. PITA!

Also, the ABS on the B-Body sucks too, as with most GM cars. '59 Toaster is right. The GM brakes if one slips, the rest freak out. That is a BIG problem if one wheel kind of catches air or looses traction. The whole car feels somewhat unstable.

Granted, but I drive kind of spirited when not pulling and the car brakes feel almost unresponsive if I go over bumpy rail tracks (or similar bumps) and hit the brakes where one wheel locks up.

Eric

[Silvertwinkie]

I just swapped out my Voyager for the Prodigy. I must say that the Voyager is the weight of an empty can of pop (or beer 12oz). There has to be nothing to it at all. The Prodigy is much more robust in weight alone. By the way, thanks to Mark for selling me his old unit!

The one question that I have is simply that the person who did the wiring on the car must have wired it to an always on state, so even when the key is taken out of the ign, the light on the Prodigy stays on. Now it looks like an LED, so I'm not too worried about it killing my battery after a few days, but does anyone know if I will have a problem with it killing the batt?

Also, noticed another possible wiring snafu. Are the backup lights suppose to work on the trailer when the car is backing up? Since there are backup lights on the trailer, I am thinking, um, yea. So does anyone else have their rigs wired for the backup lights or am I just being excessive compulsive?

Thanks,

Eric

[overlander64]

Greetings Eric!

RE: Backup Lights

I have them wired on my Argosy, and wish that I had that option on my Airstream (it was an under $20.00 option in '64 but the previous owner's didn't order it on the coach - - one of the few overlooked options). I am virtually certain that the wire is already connected on the trailer end. If someone other than an Airstream shop wired the car end of the connector, it is very possible that it wasn't wired to the backup light circuit. Since each of my tow vehicles have been wired by my Airstream dealer, the backup circuit was already properly connected on the car end. It is a nice feature to have, but the intensity of the light from my Argosy's backup lights is such that it isn't very useful in after dark parking - - does provide a nice warning to pedestrians and others behind the trailer that the rig is moving backward.

Kevin

[Silvertwinkie]

Kevin,

Thanks for the post. The thing that "sucks" is that an A/S authorized dealer did wire the car!

So my only alt is to find the right circuit to get it on. I think it's important. I mean, if I am going into a campsite, I don't really need it, but if I am going to backup elesewhere, I am a bit concerned.

Anyway, thanks for the post. I will have the B/U lights activated somehow!

Regards,

Eric
PS- BTW, I went out to the car a few hours after I finished and the LED went out.

[Pick]

Here are two pictures of my Jordan brake controller install.

[Pick]

Picture 2 is of the connection to the brake pedal. Took about 5 minutes, not difficult at all. I think the whole project, including removing the Voyager was 45 minutes.

[Silver Bullet]

I voted on this poll when it first appeared on this forum with an electronic controller vote. Since then my vote has changed.

As of now I will be installing the "old" hydraulic style brake controller of yester-year. Now don't misunderstand me, the EC's of today have they're place in today's world of ABS systems, but I'm not in that world (tow vehicle).

Contrary to thoughts and belief's, they are Not outlawed. They also DO NOT change they stopping caracteristics of the tow vehicle while towing or not, provided they are properly installed, bled, etc. Remember, when these units were popular, the cars and trucks that pulled TT's sported HD packages and Big Block motors, larger brakes, larger capacity master cylinders and made all kinds of vacume for the booster, all of which I have.

Botttom line, I can't wait to get this unit installed. My Father is sending me two KH units (81740's). It will be nice to pull and stop as we once did in the 60's and 70's (pre ABS).


Oscar

[Action]

So Oscar. what's your tow vehicle?

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Silver Bullet]

I pull with a '78 Ford Bronco, 460 .060 over (473 cid). Same one since '85.

Oscar

[59toaster]

Originally posted by Silver Bullet
I voted on this poll when it first appeared on this forum with an electronic controller vote. Since then my vote has changed.

As of now I will be installing the "old" hydraulic style brake controller of yester-year. Now don't misunderstand me, the EC's of today have they're place in today's world of ABS systems, but I'm not in that world (tow vehicle).

Contrary to thoughts and belief's, they are Not outlawed. They also DO NOT change they stopping caracteristics of the tow vehicle while towing or not, provided they are properly installed, bled, etc. Remember, when these units were popular, the cars and trucks that pulled TT's sported HD packages and Big Block motors, larger brakes, larger capacity master cylinders and made all kinds of vacume for the booster, all of which I have.

Botttom line, I can't wait to get this unit installed. My Father is sending me two KH units (81740's). It will be nice to pull and stop as we once did in the 60's and 70's (pre ABS).


Oscar

Ohhh I'm 100% with you. The PO of my 88 Burb had a KH installed and it works GREAT. The only booger is getting the rought adjustment set with the resistor under the hood. After learning about controlers from the people on this site I really feel that it's probely one of the best controlers EVER. I think the only controler that is in it's league is the Jordan. I think the Jordan does "one up it" for two reason.
1: All the adusting is from the controler.

2: the diagonistics features that tells you exactly what your putting to the brakes and if it senses an open circuit.

My 75 GMC Jimmy also has one in. That truck will never pull the Airstream. It's very offroad biased and I would need a 20 inch drop draw bar. It does how ever pull a small utility camper. I think I will be adding brakes to it. At times it does have enough weight in it that it taxes the tow vehicle. The Jimmy is running 35's and really doesn't need any more load put on the brakes.

I also HATE the ABS that's on most trucks from 80's to mid 90's. It's single channel and thats a VERY flawed design. 3 or 4 Channel is good but not single channel. Company van I drove had single channel ABS and it almost caused me to be in teo wrecks. Both times a rear tire locked on a loose surface and sicne the ABS could only modulate the whole system it realeased ALL the brakes to get that one wheel spinning and about sent me out into a intersection. The other three tires were not even close to loosing traction.

I unplugged it after that. Truck got serviced about a year later and they plugged the ABS back in without my knowledge. Caught me off guard one day when I got cut off and the same thing happend. Dropped a wheel off the road tapped the brakes once both front tires hit pavement. Rear tire locked and it let off all the brakes.

Now understand BOTH times I was under 30mph when this happened and it trippled my stopping distance as a result. GM was involved a a LARGE lawsuit from these sytems. Apparently it was swept under the carpet just like AIrbags killing tiny women that sit close to the wheel, like my wife. That's the reason our vehicles are older is no airbags and no ABS.

[Silver Bullet]

Jordan "IS" the only one in the same league. Hyro or Mechanical, they are flawless in operation.

My truck (Bronco, F-150 chassis with 33x12.50's) has a drop of 4" (give or take). I,m going to have to post some pic's and get a few forum threads started past this.

Wait 'till you see what my wife did with valances' in our AS, yep, new info on another old thread, AGAIN!

Oscar

[Silver Bullet]

WOW, I don' just have brakes, I've got BRAKES!!! There's nothing more satisfying that a tow vehicle and TT working together.

Oscar