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Old 09-03-2012, 10:12 AM   #1
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What brake assembly for '66 Overlander?

Hello all-I am new to the forum. I am picking up my new 1966 overlander that belongs to my neighbor/ good friend. the only problem is - its 5 1/2 hours away and the trailer has been sitting for 10 years at a hunting camp in Georgia. I will need to bring: 4 new tires, 4 brake assemblies and new bearings for each wheel to get it home. does anyone know if any of these brake assemblies will bolt right up? Search - electric brake assembly - Camping World

The current rims are 6 lug. i believe 15"?
I am trying to figure out the easiest way to get the overlander hwy safe while working out in a remote area.


Thanks in Advance.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:49 AM   #2
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Hello summerj. Welcome to the Forum!

I believe brake parts are all generic to the car/truck/trailer industry. You shouldn't have to go through Camping World.

Anybody have better info on this?
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #3
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Hello all-I am new to the forum. I am picking up my new 1966 overlander that belongs to my neighbor/ good friend. the only problem is - its 5 1/2 hours away and the trailer has been sitting for 10 years at a hunting camp in Georgia. I will need to bring: 4 new tires, 4 brake assemblies and new bearings for each wheel to get it home. does anyone know if any of these brake assemblies will bolt right up? Search - electric brake assembly - Camping World

The current rims are 6 lug. i believe 15"?
I am trying to figure out the easiest way to get the overlander hwy safe while working out in a remote area.


Thanks in Advance.
That Airstream has 15 inch wheels.

The brakes are 12 inch electric and each one is held in place with 5 bolts. Replacing backing plates is very easy.

The bearing numbers are 25580 and LM67048.

As I recall, the grease seals (292100) used were felt instead of neoprene, and they are no longer available, but a replacement is.

Since the trailer was parked for a long time, you more than likely have bad rubber rods within the axle tubes, which cause a very rough ride for the trailer. Most likely, new axles will be needed before you start making trips.

If not, damages from a rough ride will soon show up.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:00 PM   #4
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Thanks Andy and everyone else for the help. I will get the bearing #'s that you noted- 4 of each. Backing plates with brake assemblies. I am sure that the rubber in the axles are worn out so I will also buy new axles too. I am wondering if it would be easier to just purchase the axle assembly complete with brake assembly bearings drums etc . or purchase components individually?

Anyone have a recommendation for replacement axles for a 1966 Overlander?
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:08 PM   #5
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The older Airstreams used a 6 pin round connector to hook to the tow vehicle. They do make adaptors for it that will convert 6 pin to the new 7 pin plugs. But, plan on spending a little time getting that sorted out as many of the older trailers have been "worked"on and the pin out shown on the old Airstream diagrams might not be what is actually present on your trailer (mine was not). Also, print off a chart of the pinout for the new model 7 lug standard plug to save time when you get there. I spent a half a day trying to get all my lights wired correctly because I assumed the trailer was wired like the diagram showed, it was not.
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:14 PM   #6
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Thanks Andy and everyone else for the help. I will get the bearing #'s that you noted- 4 of each. Backing plates with brake assemblies. I am sure that the rubber in the axles are worn out so I will also buy new axles too. I am wondering if it would be easier to just purchase the axle assembly complete with brake assembly bearings drums etc . or purchase components individually?

Anyone have a recommendation for replacement axles for a 1966 Overlander?
Complete replacement axles, cost less than the individual parts.

New style self adjusting brakes are the 'in" thing today.

New style hub and drums are one piece machined. The old style is 3 piece and is in balance about as much as most states budgets.

Parked equipment that uses torsion axles, must be moved periodically, to keep the rubber rods alive.

Rubber must be exercised in order to stay alive.

Long term parked anything that uses torsion axles, will have the rubber rods either get very soft, or actually solidify. In either case, that makes the suspension system useless.

46 year old shocks, I am reasonable sure, would also need replacing.

Then, with new technologies of today, Centramatic wheel balancers can be installed on new axles, that eliminate the need to routinely balance the running gear.

Lots of new stuff, that can easily be used to update the running gear on old Airstreams.

Many owners even choose to replace their own axles, especially when they have a tandem axle trailer, since you don't even need a jack.

Andy
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:44 PM   #7
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Complete replacement axles, cost less than the individual parts.

New style self adjusting brakes are the 'in" thing today.

New style hub and drums are one piece machined. The old style is 3 piece and is in balance about as much as most states budgets.

Parked equipment that uses torsion axles, must be moved periodically, to keep the rubber rods alive.

Rubber must be exercised in order to stay alive.

Long term parked anything that uses torsion axles, will have the rubber rods either get very soft, or actually solidify. In either case, that makes the suspension system useless.

46 year old shocks, I am reasonable sure, would also need replacing.

Then, with new technologies of today, Centramatic wheel balancers can be installed on new axles, that eliminate the need to routinely balance the running gear.

Lots of new stuff, that can easily be used to update the running gear on old Airstreams.

Many owners even choose to replace their own axles, especially when they have a tandem axle trailer, since you don't even need a jack.

Andy
Andy,
I have decided to just buy replacement axles with brakes, drums etc already assembled. Is there a particular brand of complete axles that would bolt right up to a 66 overlander?
I am going to be out in the middle of nowhere working on the airstream so doing any grinding welding etc would be tough. I may just go ahead and buy 4 rims and tires already mounted and balanced or ... take 4-15" new tires with me and go into town and have them mounted and balanced.

thanks,
Jim
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:56 PM   #8
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I am going to be out in the middle of nowhere working on the airstream so doing any grinding welding etc would be tough. I may just go ahead and buy 4 rims and tires already mounted and balanced or ... take 4-15" new tires with me and go into town and have them mounted and balanced.

thanks,
Jim
Jim, your plan sound good. (Taking a spare isn't a bad idea, either.)
Where in GA?
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:38 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
The older Airstreams used a 6 pin round connector to hook to the tow vehicle. They do make adaptors for it that will convert 6 pin to the new 7 pin plugs. But, plan on spending a little time getting that sorted out as many of the older trailers have been "worked"on and the pin out shown on the old Airstream diagrams might not be what is actually present on your trailer (mine was not). Also, print off a chart of the pinout for the new model 7 lug standard plug to save time when you get there. I spent a half a day trying to get all my lights wired correctly because I assumed the trailer was wired like the diagram showed, it was not.
Airstream from the mid 60's used plastic trailer to tow vehicle connectors that were gray and made by Signal Stat.

They used 7 round pins.

Round pins are self cleaning, flat pins are not.

Andy
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