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Old 01-07-2008, 10:07 PM   #1
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Question Upgrading the TT electric brakes.

I have a TT with a tandem 2 axles, only one with electric brakes but I feel is not enough to stop it safely, it weigths about 7k. Im going to add breaks to the other axle, Im going to order the parts, but my question is: the new backing plates has the oval magnet and the old ones in the other axle has a round magnet, can I upgrade the old ones whit a new oval magnet or buy a new round magnet?
thanks in advance.
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Old 01-07-2008, 10:14 PM   #2
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The round and oval magnets are not interchangeable. You may want to upgrade the original brakes with new loaded backing plates also; they're not very expensive and then everything will be the same.

Be sure the brake wiring is at least 12 ga.
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:21 AM   #3
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Get two new backing plates. They are only about $50, which isn't that much more expensive than a new magnet and you get all new mechanism. I've had the swing arms or their posts fail on old electric brakes and lock up the whole wheel.

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Old 01-08-2008, 12:43 PM   #4
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Ok, thank all of you, and you are right, I think is better to change the old braking plates, to match them up with the new ones in the other axle. Do you think I can use the drums? or I should buy a new ones?

Thanks a lot.
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:36 PM   #5
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The old drums will work, as long as they haven't been reamed out more than once--same specs as if you didn't change out the plates. I think I'd get four plates.

Pounding the press fit bolts out of the old plates is a real exercise. You might also want to buy a set of bolts for each plate.

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Old 01-09-2008, 05:46 PM   #6
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Thanks a lot sir. Ill follow your recomendations.
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:02 PM   #7
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Question

OK, Im in the middle of the work and I have a couple of questions:

1.- How is the way to give the "torque" for the spindle nuts?. Some said: put the nut with pressure finger and then torque it a 1/4 clock wise with a tool. others said: torque it with the tool strong and then return 1/4 counter clock wise.

any ideas.

2.- The bolts from the backing plate are to short for the plate in the axle and I cant get here a longer ones, with the striate, can I put a longer regular bolts (grade) instead of the OEM?
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:46 PM   #8
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Turn in direction of normal rotation

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOCTOR-MX
OK, Im in the middle of the work and I have a couple of questions:

1.- How is the way to give the "torque" for the spindle nuts?. Some said: put the nut with pressure finger and then torque it a 1/4 clock wise with a tool. others said: torque it with the tool strong and then return 1/4 counter clock wise.

any ideas.
The torque spec should come with axles. You will need to torque them to say 15 ft-lbs rotate clockwise and then back the nut off loose. Turn the nut hand tight then until it drags slightly. Check for play by grabbing the tire on the front and back pull on one side then the other. Grab it on the top and bottom and do the same. rotate the tire and see if there is slight drag again. It should be good.
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:37 AM   #9
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thecatsandi thank you for your comments.
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:50 AM   #10
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BTW what about this question:
The bolts (studs?) from the backing plate are to short for the plate in the axle and I cant get here a longer ones, with the striate, can I put a longer regular bolts (grade) instead of the OEM?
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:23 AM   #11
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Backing Plate Bolts

The splined bolts are easily relaced with a Grade 8 bolt, nut and lock washer, that's generally what comes with new backing plates. One word of caution, the older drums had a re-enforcing lip cast on the edge, this may interfer with the rolled edge on the newer style backing plates. You can have this lip relieved slightly at the same time you have the drums and armature plate trued.
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:34 AM   #12
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Ok, thanks GREG@INLAND, thats what I thougth; and about the drums Im changing all, four new backing plates and four new drums. but that was a good point.

Thanks again, best regards.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:56 PM   #13
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Question update

Well I changed backing plates and drums, and all the wires, hot and ground with a 10 gauge wire, direct from the magnets to the connector, should I connect the ground wire also to the frame of the trailer?.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOCTOR-MX
Well I changed backing plates and drums, and all the wires, hot and ground with a 10 gauge wire, direct from the magnets to the connector, should I connect the ground wire also to the frame of the trailer?.

Thanks in advance.
You've got a separate ground wire from inside the trailer, like coming from a wire bundle? Both sets of brakes I've worked on only have a hot wire--the ground in both cases is connected to the frame close to the axle. It seems to me that making a ground connection to the frame would help in two ways--lower the overall impedence and provide a redundant ground path (increasing reliability).

Zep
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