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Old 02-08-2008, 11:33 AM   #15
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Zep, thanks, I didnt understand very well your question: You've got a separate ground wire from inside the trailer, like coming from a wire bundle? but I think I dont have a separate ground from inside the trailer.

I put two new wires (#10 gauge) from the connector in the umbilical cord, one for the trailer brakes (power) to a junction box then to the one of the wires of the magnets like in the trailer 2 (I only change that using the SAME length of wire for each brake from the j. box, like a spider), and the other for the ground in the same way (of course in a separated j. box) to the other wire of the magnets (they are not connected to the frame close to the axle), and my question was if I should connect the ground wire also to the frame of the trailer? But according what you wrote, I should, to lower the overall impedence and provide a redundant ground path (increasing reliability), right?


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Old 02-08-2008, 12:42 PM   #16
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you misunderstood me. I was asking if you had a separate ground wire from the umbilical. I don't. I just have a ground connection to the frame close to the axle. As long as you have a good ground, it really doesn't matter where or how you get it as long as it's reliable. Two grounds would be just a little bit better.

You don't have to worry about making the wires the same length. That's only for high frequency radio stuff.

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Old 02-08-2008, 02:53 PM   #17
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ohhhh I see. In other forums they claim that the same length is very good and thats the reason for a "star" wiring. I really doesnt know, any way in my logic it seem to be right, but electronics are othere thing.

BTW, I have a DrawTite 2-4 Brake Electronic Brake Controller - Time Delayed, should I change it for a Tekonsha P-3 Trailer Brake Controller Proportional for even better braking?
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Old 02-08-2008, 04:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOCTOR-MX
...BTW, I have a DrawTite 2-4 Brake Electronic Brake Controller - Time Delayed, should I change it for a Tekonsha P-3 Trailer Brake Controller Proportional for even better braking?
I'm not a controller expert. Proportional braking systems are better, but at the cost of added complexity in getting them installed and calibrated. I don't know if the calibration is a one-time issue or crops up now and then. Calibration is the process of getting the controller "level" so that it senses your braking effort and not the uphill or downhill tilt of the box.

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Old 02-09-2008, 09:11 AM   #19
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I have the Tekonsha P-3 Trailer Brake Controller. Used to have the Draw-Tite. I like the Tekonsha waaaaayyy better. No more difficult to install. Although you can probably leave it alone after you calibrate, I am a fiddler and you can easily tweak the settings for unusual situations.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:24 AM   #20
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Question

Thanks for your comments, I am planning to buy the Tekonsha P-3, but now somebody recomend me the BRAKESMART, and now I dont know, the brakesmart is more expensive but tu be seem that is the bullet ??. does it worth ?
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:34 PM   #21
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Your up grading of the wire is a very good idea as voltage drop within ther circuit can be as much as 3 volts from the controller to the brakes.

I see you have installed a junction box and split the brakes off from that box. As long as you have the junction box. One thing I have been considering and would suggest is installing a 5 amp fuse in the juction box between the feed wire coming into the box and each of the wires leading back to each brake. If installed should you ever short a magnet the fuse for that magnet would blow and you would still have the rest of the system working. Currently if one magnet shorts it will cause the whole system to fail by either distroying the contoller or opening the fuse feeding the controller.
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
... One thing I have been considering and would suggest is installing a 5 amp fuse in the juction box between the feed wire coming into the box and each of the wires leading back to each brake. ...
I've had a numer of magnets wear through and short to the drum. This never hurt the controller, but made it go into overload where it shuts down for a tenth of second or so and then ramps the volts up again. The fuse is an excellent idea--you'd only lose one brake if the magnet shorted out. On the down side, how would you know you had lost a brake? You'd have to check the fuses each time you started out. If they weren't convenient, you'd probably not do it and could get to the point that you had lost two or maybe even three before you knew it.

On the other hand, maybe when the brakes started pulling one way or the other you'd get a hint that one was out...

This does give me a really terrific idea! I'm about to wire the brakes on the Safari and instead of taking one wire back to the axles, I'll put in 4 wires so I can do a small fuse block right up front near the 7-Pin trailer connector. Yes!

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Old 02-12-2008, 02:08 PM   #23
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Arrow

Both are very good ideas, the principle is the same, the difference is where to put the fuses or fuse block.

The question is why none of the diagrams in the literature has that?

Muchas gracias a todos.
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Old 02-12-2008, 02:20 PM   #24
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electric brakes.

The old theory was to "never" fuse an electric brake controller, or the brakes.

That was based on the reasoning that if one magnet was shorted, you still would have some brakes, instead of nothing.

In my 42 yeaqrs, I have seen many brake magnets that were worn into the magnet wiring.

But never, have I found a "dead" short from a magnet. A partial short yes, a dead short, no.

That being the case, a magnet when energized that had a partial short, will still have some braking.

The best way to avoid the issue, is to have that major brake job done, every 10,000 miles.

That usually saves a lot of worry and headaches, plus assures maximum braking reliability.

But, I have heard someone is working on a "drag chute" for travel trailer owners. Might work great for the travel trailer owner, but I would sure hate to be behind one, when that chute deploys.

Andy
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Old 02-12-2008, 03:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The old theory was to "never" fuse an electric brake controller, or the brakes.

That was based on the reasoning that if one magnet was shorted, you still would have some brakes, instead of nothing.

...But never, have I found a "dead" short from a magnet. A partial short yes, a dead short, no.

...
Andy, you da man. I had forgotten that when you wear into the magnet wire, you are near the ground side of the coil, not the feed, so you do have partial brakes. At this point the controller ought to start blinking at you, too. I'm thinking you're right--fuses are probably a bad idea.

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Old 02-12-2008, 03:29 PM   #26
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In my 45 years of towing I have never seen a brake controller that was not that feed by a circuit braker. A short in the brake line, not within a magnet, would cause a fire in the wiring harness because the controller is feed directly from the battery. No one would ever run a line, with wire thicker than a human hair, off a battery without protection.

A partital short is not the same as slightly pergnant. A short will cause one of two things if unprotected, a fire or open the circuit.

Yes an internal short between the windings within a magnet would not initially draw the current that a short in the harness wiring would.

If monitoring of the fuses is an issue wire a lamp, located were you will see them like the front window of the trailer, across each fuse. If a fuse opens the current will flow through the lamp and indicate the failure. This will not detect an open wire but will display an open fuse. A reduction in the current displayed on the controller will show any reduction in current flow caused by an open.
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Old 02-12-2008, 03:35 PM   #27
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Andy, you da man. I had forgotten that when you wear into the magnet wire, you are near the ground side of the coil, not the feed, so you do have partial brakes. At this point the controller ought to start blinking at you, too. I'm thinking you're right--fuses are probably a bad idea.

Zep
Zep as I recall there is no polarity noted on the magnet wiring and thus no way to be sure the ground side of the magnet winding will be the first point of failure.
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Old 02-12-2008, 05:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
Zep as I recall there is no polarity noted on the magnet wiring and thus no way to be sure the ground side of the magnet winding will be the first point of failure.
Good point. I hate it when I'm having a stupid day. Hopefully, the face winding is not close (electrically) to either wire.

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