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Old 01-12-2007, 10:55 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Lipets
What would exactly be included in that price?

If that's all the parts it sounds pretty good

Everything in the photo, plus a instruction manual.

http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/86200-...-brake-kit.jpg

Also, our kits are for 6000 pounds per axle, not 5200 as others offer.

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Old 01-12-2007, 12:42 PM   #30
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If my gross trailer weight is 7100 lbs, would I need that size brake system?

Wouldn't 3500 lbs per axle be good?
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:06 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
If my gross trailer weight is 7100 lbs, would I need that size brake system?

Wouldn't 3500 lbs per axle be good?

Absolutely not, if you consider "safety."

Remember, the trailer brakes should also stop the tow vehicle, if need be.

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Old 01-12-2007, 01:56 PM   #32
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I don't know...the drum brakes on my '73 23-footer seem more than adequate. I can easily lock the wheels if I'm not carefull with the controller adjustment. In fact, I usually wind up dragging the trailer down my steep gravel driveway, when we're departing. holding enough braking on the truck to keep the whole combination from going "woosh" down the driveway too fast is enough to lock up 2 of the wheels.
when I get out to the pavement, and test the controller with the thumb-button, (no truck brakes..trailer only), the trailer wheels are chirpin' away with the button halfway depressed, dragging the rig to a stop.

Now I know, coming down a long mountain, the drums heat up, and you get "fade" and so forth...but I never go to those places.

Considering that a second axle and subsequent extra pair of brakes was still an option for this model...would discs really do that much more for me?
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:01 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by chuck
I don't know...the drum brakes on my '73 23-footer seem more than adequate. I can easily lock the wheels if I'm not carefull with the controller adjustment. In fact, I usually wind up dragging the trailer down my steep gravel driveway, when we're departing. holding enough braking on the truck to keep the whole combination from going "woosh" down the driveway too fast is enough to lock up 2 of the wheels.
when I get out to the pavement, and test the controller with the thumb-button, (no truck brakes..trailer only), the trailer wheels are chirpin' away with the button halfway depressed, dragging the rig to a stop.

Now I know, coming down a long mountain, the drums heat up, and you get "fade" and so forth...but I never go to those places.

Considering that a second axle and subsequent extra pair of brakes was still an option for this model...would discs really do that much more for me?

Disc brakes are far superior to any electric or hydraulic brakes ever made.

Why have so many auto manufacturers gone to them?

Plus the cost of replacement parts is less for discs than other type brakes.

12" single axle brakes for a 23 foot trailer "and" a tow vehicle, are very inadequate. Tow vehicle brakes do fail.

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Old 01-12-2007, 02:07 PM   #34
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The 12x2 electric brakes that Airstream uses are 5200lbs or 6000lb rated, per axle. It seems that the 6000lb disc brake kit would make a good replacement with plenty of reserve capacity for prolonged downhill braking if necessary, or plenty of panic stop reserve.
The increase in rated brake weight gives you components that are capable of dealing with more heat over a longer time, not necessarily more theoretical stopping power.
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:08 PM   #35
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Same item.

To the best of my knowledge the Kodiak brake for 5200# and 6000# axles is the same part number, thus there is no difference, if anyone was curious!

Trailer axles are grouped in families - 2200#, 3500#, 5200# & 7000#. This is mainly a function of spindle diameter.

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Old 01-12-2007, 02:18 PM   #36
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yeah, but would it really stop any better? If I can make my wheels go from 30mph to 0 in an instant....haven't tried it at highway speed, but....

oh, I know all about TV brake failure. did that last summer...and I WISH I had the trailer attached...at least I'd have had "some" brakes that way.
Had a controller fail once when I was towing. that wasn't fun, either...but not nearly as bad as "no brakes at all".
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:24 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
yeah, but would it really stop any better? If I can make my wheels go from 30mph to 0 in an instant....haven't tried it at highway speed, but....
The question is subjective, as it is clear that many are very happy with their electric drum brakes and it depends on driving style, geography, driver expectations, etc.etc.
Chances are that those that are firmly planted in the electric drum brake camp would not fully appreciate a disc brake conversion, all other things in their rig being equal.
My own experience with both types makes me a firm believer in the electro/hydraulic disc brake system. It's not just mountain driving, but also steep offramps, manual sway corrections, and the much improved balance.
It does stop better, safer, longer, smoother, quieter, and has a much improved brake feel over the electric drum brakes.
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:10 PM   #38
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Chuck, What you are describing is the problem with drum brakes. When they are cold the are impossible to modulate. when they are warm they are better. The whole idea of quality brakes is to get maximum braking without locking any of them. This allows the driver to maintain control in a panic stop. The disc brakes are more controlled and with the hydraulics the pressure is equalized and all the wheels are theoretically getting the same pressure. The debate is not if they are powerful enough but how well they stop.
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:34 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by moosetags
What kind of money does a disc conversion cost today on a dual axle Airstream?


For all the parts the best I can find is $1200 that is not installed.
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:01 PM   #40
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Chuck, What you are describing is the problem with drum brakes. When they are cold the are impossible to modulate. when they are warm they are better. The whole idea of quality brakes is to get maximum braking without locking any of them. This allows the driver to maintain control in a panic stop. The disc brakes are more controlled and with the hydraulics the pressure is equalized and all the wheels are theoretically getting the same pressure. The debate is not if they are powerful enough but how well they stop.
well, that's just what I was getting at. does the ability to make the wheels go "0" really mean anything? perhaps not.
(and speaking of that, it always amazes me just how powerfull those magnets are!).
the "really" subjective question is, would it make enough difference on a smaller trailer to justify the price?

I used to have a '94 Ford Taurus...had 4-wheel discs. traded it in for a '00 Taurus. same trim level...it has rear drums. funny they would go in that direction, in a later model car. then again, maybe not...I just had the front brakes done (new rotors/pads) for the first time...@90,000 miles. the rear drums are hardly worn. obviously, I'm not one to ride the brakes. But anyway...I know 4 wheels in the corners of a car is a totally different situation than 4 wheels in the middle on a trailer, but the point is, perahaps the factory decided that rear discs on this particular car just didn't make enough of a difference to justify the added cost. I certainly don't notice any difference in this car's braking ability vs. the last one.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:15 PM   #41
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Trailer size vs TV size may effect the price analysis for sure. I am towing a 77/31 with a 1500 Avalanche. I guess if you are towing a Quick Silver with a big dually 3500 they may not be as important. But if they do not modulate well the Bambi mi still end up in front of you.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:23 PM   #42
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Garth Cane, technical adviser for RV Lifestyles magazine wrote a detailed report on the advantages of RV disc brakes. He summed up by saying...

After you installed your disc brakes, look for smother stopping distances, lower heat buildup, lower maintenance costs, reduced brake fade, and as much as 30% reduction in stopping distances.
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