Trailer Breakaway Switch

[KonaAir]

We are new to the Airstream community .Purchased new 25FB Globetrotter. When preparing for our first voyage noticed the casing to the trailer breakaway switch has melted and encased wires were shorted/damaged. Called dealer and was informed that when disconnecting from tow vehicle one must re-engage the breakaway pin to the switch. Thus this caused some kind of reversal of energy and resulting damage. Anyone experience this? Wasn’t told when checking out that pin had to be reinserted. Also, if this were to happen again is there away to disable the switch so that the trailer brakes don’t lock up, until a repair can be made. Thank you. Have learned a-lot already from the forum.

[NoResults]

You have me totally confused. I have never had a problem with this switch and the only time it would be activated is when the pin is pulled and that only happens in an emergency thereby activating the breaks.


Other wise the switch is never activated.


Dave

[overlander63]

Likewise, I'm confused by your post.
Are you telling us you tow your trailer with the pin and breakaway cable removed?

[GCinSC2]

Pretty much what Dave said.

If the pin was pulled then that might cause overheating and damage.

And welcome to airforums.

Gary

[Lumatic]

I think an easy way to temporarily disable the switch is disconnect the house battery. This would not affect the trailer brakes if they are controlled by the tow vehicle.
I am not familiar with this breakaway switch. Would "pulling the pin" activate the brakes which would make the trailer impossible to tow?

[KonaAir]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Likewise, I'm confused by your post.
Are you telling us you tow your trailer with the pin and breakaway cable removed?

Sorry, I have confused because I’m confused. When I disconnected my Airstream from my truck, the pin had to be disengaged from the switch for removal (see pics below) After removing the wire from my truck, I did not reconnect the pin to the switch, thus according the dealer causing the shorting/melting/damage. Make sense?Attachment 1

[KonaAir]

[Lumatic]

Removing the pin activates the brakes which will continue to draw electricity until the pin is replaced. I have never done this except to check the breakaway switch. No reason you could not do this, but only until the trailer is parked, chocked and stabilized.

[Gsmblue]

I think the other posts answer what happened. As you did not replace the pin the max current draw was applied to lock the brakes up and that could well melt the switch housing. So here is my opinion:

1. It is not the dealers fault, it is an unfortunate accident. You can order a replacement brake away switch online and install yourself. If you are not confident about doing it then ask the dealer nicely, maybe you get lucky, or ask a handy friend.
2. you need to check the state of you batteries. They would have received a significant discharge. If you do not know how to do this ask for help here, lots of people here can help. I am using my phone here so can’t search for helpful threads right now, sorry.
3. Get one of these handy dandy fast way things. Makes the process easier...https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...iABEgIHUPD_BwE

I hope this helps!

[KonaAir]

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

I think the other posts answer what happened. As you did not replace the pin the max current draw was applied to lock the brakes up and that could well melt the switch housing. So here is my opinion:

1. It is not the dealers fault, it is an unfortunate accident. You can order a replacement brake away switch online and install yourself. If you are not confident about doing it then ask the dealer nicely, maybe you get lucky, or ask a handy friend.
2. you need to check the state of you batteries. They would have received a significant discharge. If you do not know how to do this ask for help here, lots of people here can help. I am using my phone here so can’t search for helpful threads right now, sorry.
3. Get one of these handy dandy fast way things. Makes the process easier...https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...iABEgIHUPD_BwE

I hope this helps!

It does help and thanks to you and all others that replied. Greatly appreciated. I have learned more from the forum than any other source.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by KonaAir

I have learned more from the forum than any other source.

Be careful with advice. Some people don't know what they are talking about. Present company excepted of course.

[Alumaholic]

Great pictures by the way.
That really helps us understand the issue and offer a fact-based opinion...maybe, sometimes,.

[GMFL]

KonaAir,
Welcome to the forum! Getting a small clip for your truck end of the break away cable will help, at least that’s how I do it. Others are right about checking the batteries. There was quite a bit of flow going through that switch to melt it like that.

How long was the pin on the switch left pulled?

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Ok, the "normal drill" with the breakaway cable:

1) Pin stays in the socket all the time *except* when actually hooking up or unhooking.

2) Pin is never out for more than a minute in either case

3) Breakaway cable is connected to the TV whenever you are in motion.

4) Cable can be left in place when you are parked / hooked up (like in a Walmart parking lot).

What happens if you don't do all this:

1) If you don't hook up the cable when towing you (likely) are breaking the law

2) If you don't hook up the cable when towing you are driving unsafely.

3) If you leave the pin out, you are pulling 10 to 15 A off of the battery. You have something in the range of 150 to 200AH of battery. It will keep powering things until the battery is totally and completely dead. That happens in around 10 to 15 hours.

4) Running the brakes for over 15 minutes (not 15 hours) can damage the magnets in the brakes. Can damage is not the same as does damage. If you let things run for hours, the magnets need to be checked / replaced.

5) As you have discovered, the magic breakaway switch is not exactly a heavy duty item. Yours needs to be replaced.

6) If you did run the batteries flat, that's not good for them. At the very least, check the fluid levels.

Welcome to the learning by doing club .... I've "discovered" a lot this way

Bob

[rmkrum]

Suggestion. Use a decent stainless steel carabiner to connect your breakaway switch cable to your tow vehicle.

Several of us on the forum have also installed a 1/4-20 threaded stainless steel eyebolt in place of one of our license plate bolts as a convenient place to connect the breakaway cable. It’s a safer location than on the hitch structure itself. Hitch bolts and hitches themselves have been known to fail. Running the breakaway cable to a different anchor point increases safety, IMHO.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by KonaAir

Attachment 348615

FWIW...The cable should attach to the tow vehicle, receivers also fail.


Bob
🇺🇸

[Daquenzer]

I agree with above post. I never disconnect pin from the breakaway switch. I use a carabiner to hook line to the pickup where the chains hook up.

[rmkrum]

Better to use an attach point that is not part of the hitch assembly. Note the parts on the road above....and I bet it still happens occasionally.

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Better to use an attach point that is not part of the hitch assembly. Note the parts on the road above....and I bet it still happens occasionally.

True, but then the chains should also be attached to something different than the hitch. I have actually had a cargo trailer jump off the ball and the chains prevented the trailer from careening around. My guess is that if the hitch falls off that pin is going to disconnect pretty quickly. I’ve accidentally pulled it out just from my foot catching the line briefly while stepping over it. It doesn’t take much force to pull it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eubR3ssLiOM

[rintintin]

And don’t forget to criss cross your chains