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Old 09-12-2007, 09:47 PM   #15
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You should feel a little play in the wheels when they are tightened correctly.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne.yl
I still have this noise I described several months ago and was hoping it would go away when I replaced the bearings several days ago. I have narrowed it down to the the calipers. I raised the trailer and spun each wheel. I found that there is some very slight play in the wheels and this results in a rattle at the caliber They rattle on the mounting posts very slightly but enough to make the noise. My question is whether there should be any play in the wheels at all? Have I not tightened the bearing nut down enough?
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There should be very little, if any, play. Are the pads rattling in the calipers? Or are the entire caliper assemblies rattling? If the pads are rattling, it's a pretty easy fix. Just slather some "disc brake quiet" on the BACKS of the pads, let the stuff get tacky, and reassemble them. The guide pins should not rattle. There should be rubber bushings holding them from rattling, usually mounted inside the mounting holes for the guid pins. BTW, guide pins is the term for the fancy sliding bolts that hold the calipers in place
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne.yl
I still have this noise I described several months ago and was hoping it would go away when I replaced the bearings several days ago. I have narrowed it down to the the calipers. I raised the trailer and spun each wheel. I found that there is some very slight play in the wheels and this results in a rattle at the caliber They rattle on the mounting posts very slightly but enough to make the noise. My question is whether there should be any play in the wheels at all? Have I not tightened the bearing nut down enough?
thanks
wayne
In time, the bushings and clevis pins wear.

When enough wear has taken place, strange noises seemingly from the wheels will take place.

We have the original bushings and clevis pins, along with many other parts for the original disc brakes, including the pads, pistons, boots, etc.

Andy
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:17 PM   #18
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When I replaced the bearings on my '77 which had the disc brakes, I used the red silicone for disc brake pins. It worked like a charm.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:09 PM   #19
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Thanks

I am going to try the silicone first. But I will check the bushings on the calipers because I think this is where the most noise is emanating.

Andy, I read over this thread again and should have taken your advice back in December and checked the bushings then. I think this is the problem.
Thanks all for the help....again!
Terry, thanks also for teaching me the correct terminology re; the guide pins.
There is no shortage of great info on this forum.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:24 PM   #20
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Wayne,

I am having the same noise problem with my 77 disc brakes. They have mentioned a rubber bushing on the clevis/guide pins but I haven't heard of those before. That could be my problem, I guess. I'll replace clevis/guide pins first but would like to know about the rubber bushings.
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:41 AM   #21
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Wayne,

I am having the same noise problem with my 77 disc brakes. They have mentioned a rubber bushing on the clevis/guide pins but I haven't heard of those before. That could be my problem, I guess. I'll replace clevis/guide pins first but would like to know about the rubber bushings.
There are no rubber bushings in the original Airstream disc brake system.

See posts 12 and 17 above.

The noise happens when the brass bushings and clevis pins wear.

The only rubber parts in the calipers is the "O" ring around the piston and the rubber boot that keeps the dust from entering around the piston.

The parts are getting scarcer, but we still are the only company that has them.

Some owners send us the calipers for overhaul, which would take care of the bushings, "O" rings and dust "boot."

Should you have a problem with the "sync" valve portion of the actuator, those can be overhauled as well. Some owners have chosen to upgrade the "actuator assembly" by installing a new style made by Actibrake, that does not require a source of vacuum. It does require the addition of a couple of wires.

The original system did a very good job, when working correctly.

Obviously, new technology allows upgrading to some degree.

Andy
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:38 PM   #22
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Thanks for clearing that up Andy . I will start with the clevis pins first. I really like the stopping power of the disc brakes. There is no bump or push from the trailer as I have read in the forums for units that have drum brakes. The vehicle and trailer stop as one smooth unit.
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