Should the brakes be able to lockup?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by aikenjt

I know this is an old thread, but anybody happen to have confirmation from an AS dealer that it's normal for the electric breaks NOT to lock up at full gain when closing the controller paddle all the way? I have a 2018 Bambi 22FB that just will not lock whereas my previous non-AS camper would with the same truck/controller. Thanks in advance!

Possibly. If you have low miles the shoes may not be seated well yet. You might try burnishing them in and see if improvement occurs. Then ensure that they are adjusted properly and burnish again.

[rmkrum]

I’ve also noticed that first thing in the morning on a trip the brakes need a bit more gain setting than after they have warmed up. Don’t have any theories as to why, but a slightly lower gain adjustment is needed later in the day.

Boost setting on my P3 controller does not seem to change as much as the day goes on—just terrain influences that setting.

[perryg114]

Properly adjusted brakes should lock them up. If they are properly adjusted and don't lock them up and you are sure voltage is getting to them, then you probably need new magnets and rotors. I replaced my original drums and magnets and they will stop the trailer and the Excursion Tow vehicle. I have trouble keeping them from locking.



Perry

[AirMiles]

My brakes locked up for the first time in 32,000 miles this week. I thought they were not capable of locking until this happened. I was coming down a 3 to 4 degree hill with a tighter than expected turn at the bottom. I hit the brakes late before the curve and fairly hard, but not panicking and suddenly I noticed smoke trailing the Airstream. I let off the brakes and rounded the corner. My brakes are incapable of locking up with the gain on 10 with the brake lever on blacktop. But the proportional controllers obviously sense hard braking on a downslope and must turn up the braking power. I turned the gain way down to 6 after the lockup. I really thought my brakes could not lock up until this happened.

[Al and Missy]

If you can't set the gain of your controller to just below the point that the brakes lock up (implying that you can lock up the brakes if the gain is set higher) then for some reason you are not getting the maximum available stopping power from your brakes. Possible reasons include excessive resistance in your braking circuit; bad magnets, either worn poorly or de-magnetized; poor surface on the flat (stud) side of your drum; poor adjustment of the shoes; glazed shoe linings; rust, dust, or no lubrication in the shoe linkage; and maybe a few other things I can't think of right now.

To be clear, you do not want your brakes to lock up, but you do want them to be set just below the point where they would lock up.

Al

[uncle_bob]

Hi

After reading all this "adjust so they lock up" stuff, I went off and adjusted my brakes. 20,000 miles later I replaced all four wheels worth of brakes. Setting the gain to high *does* have a downside ...... Just go be clear - the brake pads still had life left (what we could find of them). The brake mechanism was what died.

Bob

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams

I tried to look for any threads on this subject but didn't have any luck, so apologies if there is a thread that I missed. I have a 2011 Sport 22FB, being that this is a 4500# trailer with a single axle there is a lot more weight on the 2 brand new tires than most trailers...so perhaps that is contributing to the fact that I cannot get the brakes to lockup as a reference point for adjusting braking force on the controller.

I had the bearings serviced and they stated the brakes looked "fine", when they could have tried to sell me new brakes instead. I don't know how many miles are on the trailer for sure since purchased used, but it wasn't ever used by full timers...just summer weekend getaways primarily within the states of WA and OR, so I wouldn't expect there to be significant brake wear.

TIA!

I've been told that with some trailers, particularly heavy ones, the brakes will not lock up even at maximum gain. Mine don't. But I test them with the brake control lever on my Yukon at the start of every trip.

[Ray Eklund]

Al and Missy Post #45 and I agree.

To test my trailer's brakes is by doing a manual test and not use the tow vehicle's brakes. If you feel no braking, you may want to check them out.

I like it when I can 'squeeze the manual brake controller' and you can feel the brakes engage, but not locking. They will slow the tow vehicle and trailer down, that is good for me.

If they lock you have an ice skating slide of hot rubber, and get those flat spots like 18 wheeler trailers that lock up and should not.

I check the brakes manually ever so often to check that they are working. When they are not engaging... you will notice that... you have no trailer braking, at all. Just takes a loose wire at the drum and easy to find.