Right Side Dexter Brakes- Not Engaging

[Ray Eklund]

2014 25 foot International.

Nancy and I are going through the entire trailer. In the process, it was discovered that the Right Side Brakes, (passenger side to the vehicle), do not work. No hum. Not even a slight change in braking. Unlike the opposite side that work immediately by braking with the Tow Vehicle brake, or the manual braking from 0 to 10.

Turn signals and side lights all work fine.

The Left Side work, lock up after manually spinning them. Pulling the Break-Away-Switch, the left side brakes lock up. So Power is getting to the left side from the F350 Trailer Brake System, but none to the right side.

The wiring appears intact from the the covered cable going into the bottom of the trailer's aluminum skin. The wires appear fine into the two brake assemblies.

My first assumption is that there is, of course, no 12v power to the Right side. But why?

Is it a ground, somewhere? Is there a fuse, somewhere? Are the brake magnets at fault?

I never have taken each wheel off the ground in the four years owning this trailer to test each individual wheel braking. I discovered this problem yesterday going through a testing of everything in the trailer.

Could it be two faulty brake magnets and just a coincidence the same side both failed? Since I cannot say these have ever worked, could there be a wiring issue?

As I have said in the past... I am electrically challenged. Once some things can be eliminated by testing, the true source of my problem may be solved.

Has anyone else had one SIDE or the OTHER have no issue, but the other side has no power going to both side brakes?

[vintagemotor]

Ray,
I highly recommend that you take the wheel and drum off and visually inspect your brakes. There are many things that can go wrong inside there that will reduce braking efficiency, i.e. broken magnet wires, broken actuator arm, broken shoe/friction, soaked with grease due to seal failure. I pull these off every winter and inspect/repack the bearings and adjust brakes.
You most likely have Nev-R-Adjust brakes and may have Nev-R-Lube axles, but nothing beats a visual inspection with brake adjustment.

[J. Morgan]

Get a test light and a partner, probe the wire and test the voltage where the wires enter the left wheel while your partner engages the trailer brakes. Then do the same thing on the right side, the voltage should be about the same.

(Note; one wire entering the brake drum will have power, the other, the ground will not)

If you have positive current at each wheel, then you need to check your grounds. There is a method for doing that by attaching the ground clamp of your test light to a positive power source and then probing the ground wire. If the ground is good the light will illuminate.

Barring power supply issues, your magnets are likely defective.

If you have power at one side and not the other, you can simply run a new wire across the axle or the bottom of the trailer, and jump the power from the good side to the bad side. Problem solved.

[Ray Eklund]

Vintagemotor and J.Morgan... thank you for taking the time for some ideas.

Purchased at Lowe's a Southwire AC/DC Voltage Tester for $16.18. The power lead from the left side goes through the Axle to the Right Side (passenger's side) and was getting power. I found it interesting that it registered 6 volts and not 12 volts. Our Toyota with one battery registered 12 volts, and the F350 Diesel and Airstream two batteries registered as 6 volts. Someone may have a reason for that.

The magnet on the front wheel looked much more worn than those on the opposite side of the trailer. Brakes, as well. I have not pulled the rear right wheel apart after seeing the front right wheel brake and magnet wear.

Since I was getting power to the left and right sides, I did not want to go through too much more aggravation and ordered two Dexter right hand 23-459 complete assemblies for $124.10. Now just needing to swap out with five bolts to work with and then connecting wiring.

One thing I noticed when pulling on the wiring, was the two 'crimped' wires from the brakes to the power... were not crimped. I pulled one out when needing to check wiring, and my wife pulled the brake wire out with little effort just playing with the connector. I stripped the wires to get wire to test if they were getting power... they were.

For those who are new at this, as I am... the numbers are to be found on the brake assemblies when you remove the brake drum. Removing the nut and washer that holds the wheel and bearings needs a breaker bar and a 1 7/16 socket. It is torqued at 145-155 lb ft.

It takes a long breaker bar, and I just added a four foot bumper jack handle to get this loose. Nancy held the socket square onto the nut, and I broke it loose. It is also a challenge getting the nut torqued to 145 pounds when reassembling.

I advise anyone who takes the time to follow this 'adventure' to get a wheel in the air, spin and check for braking. They do hum very quietly when brakes are applied, but when in the air spinning, there is no question the brakes work.

As far as my right side brakes being 'self adjusting'... someone may have fudged considering the amount of brake used on this side. The magnet also had uneven wear.

Next week my two brake assemblies will be here and this story is not over... yet. It is a steep learning curve for the first time, but after all of this... and help above... if I can do it myself, great. Just a bit more time needed compared to older car brakes, but not 'Rocket Science' if you have a pile of tools.

I would include a photo of this front right brake assembly if anyone is interested. I am never short on words or photos. The photo would speak several paragraphs by itself.

[Ray Eklund]

Ordered two Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Kits 23-459 for the Right Side of our 2014.

They arrived via UPS a day earlier than scheduled. Sent August 12 and arrived August 15th from Missouri.

Two wires, five bolts for the complete Brake Assembly mounting. This was the almost no labor portion of the project.

Getting each wheel in the air when working on them, took four leveling blocks so the 16" Michelins had several inches of clearance to remove from fender well. Three leveling blocks probably for a 15" wheel pullout from fender well.

You need a long torque wrench with a 1 1/16" socket to get the wheel and bearing assembly off. (a small snap ring needs to be removed on end of axle)

9/16" socket to remove the five bolts that attach the Brake Assembly.

3/4" socket to remove wheel lug nuts.

A wire insulation stripper and wire connector for the two brake wires. Can go on either wire for 12 volt brakes. Does not matter which wire connects to the brake white wires.

This is the basic equipment. A torque range is given for the large nut holding the drum to the axle. 140# to 150# That need a long breaker bar to get off, and to get on at this torque.

Will be getting with Dexter as to WHY these two brakes failed. Looks like the odd wear on the 'magnet'. Also all the wheels on the trailer did not have the two small plastic inserts that you remove to adjust the brakes. Dust would get into these, as could water or any debris. That is most likely Airstream Jackson Center's issue, as Dexter supplies these.

My total cost was $124.10 and three quarts of sweat equity. The End.

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

Ordered two Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Kits 23-459 for the Right Side of our 2014.

They arrived via UPS a day earlier than scheduled. Sent August 12 and arrived August 15th from Missouri.

Two wires, five bolts for the complete Brake Assembly mounting. This was the almost no labor portion of the project.

Getting each wheel in the air when working on them, took four leveling blocks so the 16" Michelins had several inches of clearance to remove from fender well. Three leveling blocks probably for a 15" wheel pullout from fender well.

You need a long torque wrench with a 1 1/16" socket to get the wheel and bearing assembly off. (a small snap ring needs to be removed on end of axle)

9/16" socket to remove the five bolts that attach the Brake Assembly.

3/4" socket to remove wheel lug nuts.

A wire insulation stripper and wire connector for the two brake wires. Can go on either wire for 12 volt brakes. Does not matter which wire connects to the brake white wires.

This is the basic equipment. A torque range is given for the large nut holding the drum to the axle. 140# to 150# That need a long breaker bar to get off, and to get on at this torque.

Will be getting with Dexter as to WHY these two brakes failed. Looks like the odd wear on the 'magnet'. Also all the wheels on the trailer did not have the two small plastic inserts that you remove to adjust the brakes. Dust would get into these, as could water or any debris. That is most likely Airstream Jackson Center's issue, as Dexter supplies these.

My total cost was $124.10 and three quarts of sweat equity. The End.

Ray, just read your posts. I'd suggest when connecting the wires that you loop the extra wire behind the brake plate and secure with the plastic tab on the back of the plate. Also, when connecting the wires us a straight line connection that is heat activated. If I remember the wires are 16ga and you need to insert in the connector and crimp hard, then try to pull apart. Once secure and both wires inserted an crimped take a heat gun and "melt" the ends of the connectors onto the wires from the trailer on one side and the wires from the brake assembly itself. In that way you are assured the wires are tight and protected from water.

Ours failed on the left side on a new 2017 Classic, both due to two ruptured sealed NeverLube bearings. No brakes at all and did not know it until checking them.

Bud

[TG Twinkie]

I don't believe you will find the dust covers Ray is refering to on the self adjusting brake assemblies.
I have Nash with Dexter axles with self adjusting brakes. No dust covers. However my Argosy has Dexter axles, manually adjusted brakes with dust covers.
To be honest. I have never been a fan of self adjusting brakes on a trailer. Just too much stuff to go wrong.

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I don't believe you will find the dust covers Ray is refering to on the self adjusting brake assemblies.
I have Nash with Dexter axles with self adjusting brakes. No dust covers. However my Argosy has Dexter axles, manually adjusted brakes with dust covers.
To be honest. I have never been a fan of self adjusting brakes on a trailer. Just too much stuff to go wrong.

I am quickly coming to your conclusion on self adjusting brakes, at least on our 2017 Classic and may in the future go back to the "old" style of self adjusting which we had and used for years.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Our brakes are the most efficient self adjusting brakes. 👍

Self
🇺🇸

[polarlyse]

It seems to me (and it's been awhile since I looked) that the dust cover slot on the back side of the backing plate is the same as on any older car with shoe brakes. The replacement covers should be available at any decent auto parts place. Now that I mentioned this I'll have to double check mine when I get a chance. Seems to me I probably have a few lying around my garage.

[TG Twinkie]

Their are 2 slots on each back plate. You will need 8 for a tandem axle trailer.

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Our brakes are the most efficient self adjusting brakes. 👍

Self
🇺🇸

Our previous self adjusting did as well, seems there could be an issue with the new ones. In looking at the Dexter videos I noticed that the mechanism that engages the adjusting screw is a wire - where the one I have are a flat piece of metal and this area is the failure. I am wondering if there has been a recent change in this design.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by paiceman

Our previous self adjusting did as well, seems there could be an issue with the new ones. In looking at the Dexter videos I noticed that the mechanism that engages the adjusting screw is a wire - where the one I have are a flat piece of metal and this area is the failure. I am wondering if there has been a recent change in this design.

Self adjusters have used cables for decades.....

[Ray Eklund]

Post #9: Brake Adjuster Plugs for Dexter Brake Plates:

Joe Boulay- Author/Mechanic (October 23, 2012)

"The problem here is when the plug is not re installed after the adjustment is made dirt and moisture enters the brake drum it can cause large grooves to be worn into the brake shoes and drums. Also that self adjuster that we were just talking about seize up and will not move over time. As a result of this you might notice a low or spongy feeling brake pedal, poor parking brake performance, or a grinding type noise from your rear brakes. Make sure if you have your rear brakes serviced, adjusted or replaced make sure the adjuster plugs are re installed."

Just another opinion to consider. I received my additional four plugs this morning and in five minutes they were inserted into these opening. The price of $1 each and shipping seems excessive, but next time I will ask to have these 'included' if needed.
__________________

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by paiceman

Our previous self adjusting did as well, seems there could be an issue with the new ones. In looking at the Dexter videos I noticed that the mechanism that engages the adjusting screw is a wire - where the one I have are a flat piece of metal and this area is the failure. I am wondering if there has been a recent change in this design.

******
I had both right side brakes fail on me. Discovered this while testing each brake after our last trip. My 2016 F350 had a prompt "Trailer Disconnected"... and it... was connected.

Checking Ford Forums, there had been issues with their software/hardware not operating 100%. Water, moisture in the connecting plugs, etc. (I will be taking the trailer out to set the self adjusting brakes and to observer if the F350 now indicates 'Trailer Connected', as it has in the past.

This is a steep learning curve, just researching these problems.

To my surprise the Right Side brakes had power, but upon spinning the wheel and Nancy engaging the manual breaking... NOTHING.

Ordered two right side Dexter brake plate assemblies. Installed them... each worked immediately.

What I noticed FIRST on the used assemblies, they had a lot of DUST within the Drums, the axle that the bearings do not slide upon, dust upon the adjustment mechanism and springs. Then noticed NO plugs in the two holes for the plastic brake plugs.

The 'magnets' were worn more on the edges than their centers. The brake shoes were not worn much.

I did notice, like paiceman, the flat adjusting levers were in odd positions. I include photographs of the two brake assemblies and a new one.

I believe that the dust, moisture and debris that can enter a drum/brake area can cause what I discovered. It is an inexpensive and easy process to insert these.

I did a previous Thread about braiding with electrical tape the wiring so it cannot be caught by brush and detached. I also noted that the crimps used at Jackson Center when attaching the Dexter wires to the Trailer's wiring, some could be pulled loose without any effort. I began to solder them together to be 100% sure the wiring would not separate while in use.

I did a total 'Shake Down' and clean out of our trailer. Checking EVERYTHING. Hinges to Brakes. This is just the important part of our discoveries.

You may roll your eyes and yawn... but if others were paying attention to their current brakes... maybe this could help prevent brake failures and wires coming detatched.

[paiceman]

Yep looks like our failed brake. Brakes are warranted by Dexter for five years, drums and seals for one. But Dexter sent me a new drum for the right rear which destroyed itself. I am getting four new manual adjusting Dexter brakes tomorrow and will be putting them on our Classic in a week or so. I’ll have much more confidence in the manual version as in past trailers I’ve put over 100,000 miles with no problems and never adjusted

[Ray Eklund]

Thank you paiceman. I appreciate your taking time to post. The 'five years' is what was not expected.

I received the LEFT two Brake assemblies today. Total Right, and now Left brake assemblies cost me $255.46 from etrailer.com. Better price than from Dexter directly. If I am going to do this right, BOTH sides need to be replaced.

I sent the photographs to Dexter with my issues and how I am resolving them this afternoon. May hear from someone by next week.

If they want to send me brake assemblies, your idea of getting standard non adjusting brakes will also work for me.

There are different opinions... opinions it seems how to burnish your newly installed self adjusting brakes. One source says go to 40mph and brake to 20mph, several times. Another was take 200 miles or more... If Dexter contacts me, I will try to get the information from them directly.

In order to adjust these self adjusting brakes, you must be able to move the chrome adjusting lever... out of the way. Easy to say, but from all appearances, that will be a new issue coming to my doorstep. I have the brake adjusting bar from 2006 Safari... but they were standard brakes.

The service from etrailer.com has been excellent.

I am confident Dexter will also take care of me. I will have installed all four assemblies and if these are indeed self adjusting, all is replaced and done.

[GCinSC2]

Ray,

Look at pic 63. What is locking the adjusting wheel in position? Looks like the lever is not locked in to the star wheel preventing it from rotating. Now look at 64.

Wish I still had my 1960 vintage bending brake manual. Gotta look for it.

Gary

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Ray,

Look at pic 63. What is locking the adjusting wheel in position? Looks like the lever is not locked in to the star wheel preventing it from rotating. Now look at 64.
Gary

*******

That was the original purpose of the photographs. You are very observant. It was hung up, but when?

Now that I have both sides as New, this will be a good test on these Self Adjusting Brakes. I just cannot be pulling off the drum to adjust them with this strip of chrome in the way. Someone said they push it aside with something to get the Brake Tool in the slot to loosen or tighten the shoes. This lever does not appear that strong. Once I have a response from Dexter, I can play around with this lever from the old assemblies.

I just need Four working brake assemblies.

I would not be surprised that 80% of trailer owners with these self adjusting system have not tested their brakes, one at a time. I thought it was my 2014 Ford's electronic braking system that was going bad with Trailer Disconnected alerts. It was two right side brakes that had 12v but DEAD.

Burnishing the Right Side shoes around Boulder City, I heard the Rear Left brake hanging up and making a POP sound... so I ordered the Left Side Assemblies and just do it all.

[TG Twinkie]

You can not adjust the brakes with the drum off.
How would you get the drum back on?
Tow the trailer around repeatedly applying the brakes.
Or raise the tire and spin it while having someone manually operate the TV brake controller.
I have adjusted these so called self adjusting brakes.
Using a brake adjudtment tool along with a screw driver to hold the ratchet plate back.
I don't see any way that all 4 brakes would be adjusted the same with self adjusting brakes. It all depends on the relative position of the ratchet and the plate as to whether it will latch on the next cog.
At least when you have manual adjustments the initial adjustment can be made pretty consistantly.
IMHO