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Old 01-12-2009, 01:07 PM   #1
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1975 Argosy 22
Charlottesville , Virginia
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 28
Quick Brake Check?

Being no stranger to changing brakes on my Ford products (explorer, expedition, etc...) I know when and how to replace brake shoes. My questions are these:

1. Is there anything special about these brakes different that regular truck brake shoes/pads.
1. Is there an easy way to determine if your brakes work (especially after replacing)?
2. Where do you buy brake shoes for these beasts (I presume not NAPA)?
3. If I have four wheels, are there four sets of brakes?

For me, I have a 1977 22' Argosy.
I love this invaluable resource, thanks for your time.
Ken
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:21 PM   #2
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1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
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Originally Posted by uniquemicro View Post
Being no stranger to changing brakes on my Ford products (explorer, expedition, etc...) I know when and how to replace brake shoes. My questions are these:

1. Is there anything special about these brakes different that regular truck brake shoes/pads.
1. Is there an easy way to determine if your brakes work (especially after replacing)?
2. Where do you buy brake shoes for these beasts (I presume not NAPA)?
3. If I have four wheels, are there four sets of brakes?

For me, I have a 1977 22' Argosy.
I love this invaluable resource, thanks for your time.
Ken
Ken,

Actually it is a little bit easier than your truck. Pull the drums to see if the brakes need to be replaced, if so purchase new fully loaded backing plates for about $80 or less each, different one for the left and right sides. Unbolt the old, snip the wires and replace, pack the bearings, reassemble and you are down the road.

Bill
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:35 PM   #3
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1975 29' Ambassador
Reno , Nevada
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For electric trailer brakes I find Eastern Marine a good source for backing plates. They have them on sale for under $40 ea on occasion. The only other part is the hub and the general advice I have seen is that they shouldn't need turning or other such upkeep unless scored - and then it is often easier to just replace them. too.

You will need to adjust the brakes after getting the hub back together - typical star wheel accessed via a slot on the rear.

To test the brakes, pull the pin on the breakaway switch. You should hear the magnet clunk. It should be an annual test to pull this pin and then pull the trailer forward to check to see that all wheels drag.

Do use crimp on butt connectors intended for outdoor use with a silicone dielectric to get good electric connections.

The nuts on the inside of the mounting plate don't provide much room to work on so they are a bit of a pain.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:31 PM   #4
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1975 Argosy 22
Charlottesville , Virginia
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Thank you both for the input. I will check Eastern Maring tonight. Another little point to pnder. I have the 7 pin cable to hook to my truck to get the brake lights but I know I have no breakaway switch on my trailer.
IS THIS POSSIBLE OR DO I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THAT TOO? (not yelling at you, just trying to get attention;-)
Thanks,
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquemicro View Post
Thank you both for the input. I will check Eastern Maring tonight. Another little point to pnder. I have the 7 pin cable to hook to my truck to get the brake lights but I know I have no breakaway switch on my trailer.
IS THIS POSSIBLE OR DO I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THAT TOO? (not yelling at you, just trying to get attention;-)
Thanks,
I'm not sure about 75s but the 7 pin configuration on early 70s does not match the configuration of newer umbilicals. You may have to switch around a couple of wires. If when you plug it in everything does not work the way it should that is probably why.

If there is no breakaway switch check to see if there is a hot wire in the tongue frame. If there is you are half the way there. The other half is wiring the breakaway switch into the brake wire on the inside of the trailer that connects to the 7 way. It may be already wired and maybe you are just missing the switch. A simple wiring diagram will help a lot. If you test the breakaway make sure your TV is not connected or you will fry your controller.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:14 PM   #6
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Leavenworth , Kansas
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Dandy Andy has mentioned in the past that if you pull the pin on the break-a-way switch and for more than a few minutes you will heat up the brakes to the point that you may warp the drumbs and ruin the magnets in the process.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:13 PM   #7
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Folks often use an electric tongue jack power lead to also serve as the breakaway switch power.

A switch to activate brakes on trailer separation is often (now) required by law.

Good advice about not leaving the brakes at full power for minutes but you should also avoid backfeeding a controller in the tow vehicle as well. Disconnect the umbilical when you test the breakaway switch.

The mid 70's often used the round pin type plugs that are standard issue on the big rigs. Inexpensive and available at any place that has parts for the semi's.
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