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Old 06-05-2010, 11:59 PM   #1
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1970 27' Overlander
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Prodigy intermittent ol/sh??

Help!! I keep having problems with my TV(2002 chevy 2500HD) and Prodigy controller with my '70 International. With my old voyager controller it would work but often lock up breaks or very weak depending on speed. I could never seem to adjust it right. So I upgraded to the Prodigy and here is what I get: I can set up the controller by holding the lever and adjusting the voltage. Then when I get the trailer rolling I got very smooth braking by manually sliding the lever. But as soon as I apply brakes I get OL code no matter what I set the voltage at. And I'm not sure the trailer is braking. Sometimes it flashes SH and then back to normal working code. I've replaced the trailer plug with new 7way and cleaned the brass plug ends on the connection on front of trailer. After that now I'm getting more frequent SH and OL and then sometimes good readings but still seems not to be getting any actual braking. All of my trailer lights work perfectly. I know that there has been other posts about this but... What confuses me is that I have gotten the brakes to brake perfectly smooth with the manual lever, so I don't think it's a magnet problem. I put the voyager back in for a camping trip and it worked but not smoothly, that might just be inherent of the controller. Put the prodigy back in and back to the same intermittancy.Any way, any trouble shooting help would be so appreciated.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:13 AM   #2
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I would check the wires going to the brake magnets. The OL = Overload and SH = Short can both be caused by a brake wire shorting out. The OL would appear when the brakes are applied and the SH would be when you are not braking. A worn brake magnet could also cause the same symptoms. Either way, you will need to pull the drums to check out the problem.

This would be a good time to pack your bearings as well.
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Old 06-06-2010, 01:58 PM   #3
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1988 29' Excella
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Howdy!

The Prodigy is telling you you have a problem (OL over load SH short). I had the same codes. The short was so bad that it blew the main fuse and I lost all trailer brakes. You need to fine and fix the problem. Good luck.

"Happy Trails"
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:39 PM   #4
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OK, After checking every connection and plug with the multimeter today to no avail I reinstalled the voyager bc again and it works ok. Very touchy to adjust but works. That is why I bought the Progidy, for smoother braking over the voyager. This is the second Prodigy I had, the first was replaced under warranty after showing me the OL and SH when I new the voyager worked.
Could it be that the original magnets/springs are wore out and the Prodigy is so sensitive and selfprotecting that it shows short and overload? I can't understand how the voyager can work and 2 Prodigies can't??
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:05 PM   #5
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The magnets can wear down to the wires, but I would suspect one of the wires inside the drum has worn off it's insulation and is shorting to the brake arm or another area inside the drum. You could try disconnecting the wires to one drum at a time to isolate the problem.

The voyager does not have the circuitry to detect shorts and overloads. It only has a led to show that you are connected to the trailer.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:12 PM   #6
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Well, I bit the bullet and am having all new backingplate assemblies installed. A friend with a trailer shop will install and check everything out for $150 so I can't pass it up. I'll keep ya posted. He thinks its bad magnets and wire short inside the hub also.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:26 PM   #7
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Ok, here is what he found. Brake shoes were 80% and magnets and springs looked perfect which is amazing for such an old trailer. He recommended not putting new backing plates at this time. He couldn't find any pinched or frayed magnet wires, so he replaced the seals and put everything back together. He hooked up to his Dodge diesel with a Prodigy controller and his controller showed short and OL. He then heard a strange clicking/snapping coming from underneath the bellypan. He pulled on a wire going into bellypan and the SH and OL went away. He pulled and wiggled the wire and could not get it to short again. He went for a 10 mile drive and the brakes worked flawlessly! Here is the dilemma...Do I (A)have him pull the belly pan and drop an axle to get to the wire for inspection and insulate it better (we are talking big bucks and major ordeal) (B) cut out an access panel out of the belly pan and hope it's in the right place to inspect and repair and pop rivet a cover plate over the hole, or (C) since he could not duplicate the short, trust that it won't happen for another 40 years and go camping 5 times a summer. Tough decision....any input??
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:19 PM   #8
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(D) Run new wire
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:41 AM   #9
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Wouldn't that be difficult requiring removal of the belly pan also?
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:09 AM   #10
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breakaway switch

I had the same ol/sh signal on my controller, and traced it to the breakaway switch.

Laird
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:31 AM   #11
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I would purchase some belly pan rivets and take some of it down until you find where the short is.
Another solution but not as neat looking would be to run a new wire along the bottom exterior of the belly pan.
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Old 06-12-2010, 08:29 PM   #12
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Well, I picked up the AS and the brakes work flawlessly and oh so smooth!! Boy those Prodigy controllers rock!! I think I'm gonna try it for awhile and see how it goes. My mechanic said when he pulled the culprit wire it felt as if it was stuck and came loose, as if it was pinched between the frame and something when assembled at the factory. Niether one of us can duplicate the short now. He said if the short ever comes back, he could run some conduit underneath and rewire it. But his hunch is it won't.
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