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Old 05-25-2013, 12:55 PM   #43
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #44
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So I think my new brakes just needed to be warmed up and worn in a bit. I'm still not completely happy with them, but I think I will trust them for now.

Started with the P3 at max power where as before I had only run it at ~7.5. At first pulling the lever didn't seem like it was doing a lot, though I could feel a big difference in a hard braking from ~60 mph with the power at 13 vs 0, so the trailer was braking somewhat. Coming down the long hill into Durango at 60mph, I held the lever and didn't touch the truck brakes. The trailer only slightly slowed our progress and in no way would have stopped us. Yet when we got into town and hit a few stop lights I had to back off the controller down to 10v as the stopping was so touchy and jerky.

Leaving town the brakes felt solid and could definitely tell they were working. At this new campground I pulled the lever with it at 10v and easily locked up all 4 tires. Who knows.. I picked up a ton of wire and some misc bits at NAPA. I shall mess around more tomorrow.

For today Haviland Lake Campground is our home and we must go explore.

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Old 05-25-2013, 02:44 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
On a drum brake the longer shoe is on the front the shorter shoe is the rear. There are no left and rights. The shoes could have been backwards to begin with. That would explain why they didn't work to begin with.
Look here:
10" Electric Brake Assembly RH, Hayes Hayes Trailer Brakes 60202703

In this photo the front is on the left.
Your primary shoe is the forward shoe and secondary is the rear shoe I believe the primary shoe is the shorter shoe
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #46
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The primary shoe is the forward shoe and secondary shoe is the rear shoe I believe the primary shoe is the shorter brake material shoe.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #47
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So I think my new brakes just needed to be warmed up and worn in a bit. I'm still not completely happy with them, but I think I will trust them for now.
............. Yet when we got into town and hit a few stop lights I had to back off the controller down to 10v as the stopping was so touchy and jerky.

Leaving town the brakes felt solid and could definitely tell they were working. At this new campground I pulled the lever with it at 10v and easily locked up all 4 tires. Who knows.. I picked up a ton of wire and some misc bits at NAPA. I shall mess around more tomorrow.
So Timmaah,
Are you saying that the USE of the brakes increase from NO locking to actually LOCKING the brakes??

CWF reported earlier that they needed to get hot. Perhaps there is more to that than I thought. Mine are working a LITTLE better after warming them as I took it back to storage for the next few days. I have on order one of the SEARS 82369 clamp on DC amp meters to use next week.

Best to you and your journeys! We too are trying to get on the road for a long trip. We have to have better brakes before we do. I plan to have them adjusted up next week.

Steve
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:17 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Sav'h Steve View Post

So Timmaah,
Are you saying that the USE of the brakes increase from NO locking to actually LOCKING the brakes??

CWF reported earlier that they needed to get hot. Perhaps there is more to that than I thought. Mine are working a LITTLE better after warming them as I took it back to storage for the next few days. I have on order one of the SEARS 82369 clamp on DC amp meters to use next week.

Best to you and your journeys! We too are trying to get on the road for a long trip. We have to have better brakes before we do. I plan to have them adjusted up next week.

Steve
Steve... FYI. Brakes work best after brakes heat enough to transfer brake material to the drum or disc. Also, if circumference of shoes doesn't match from that reduces surface area of contact with shoe. Heating then cooling helps shoe fit and material transfer. This is especially import after "turning" and if you managed to get any lube on brake surface.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:34 PM   #49
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I don't recall any mention of "arc-grinding" the shoes to match the drums. Do you know if this was necessary or performed, before installation?

If there is a significant difference between the arc radius of the new brake shoes compared to the drums, the contact patch will be limited to only the high spot(s) where the shoes touch the drums. This small contact area drastically reduces stopping power until the brake shoes wear in and the friction material completely contacts the drum, which may explain why the brakes worked better after "heating them up".

See more detailed explanation and illustrations in this link: Drum Brakes

Turning drums (even new drums) and arc-grinding shoes was standard practice years ago when all autos had drum brakes.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:07 AM   #50
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So Timmaah,
Are you saying that the USE of the brakes increase from NO locking to actually LOCKING the brakes??
Correct. My old set seemed to work the same way. Once driven for a while they would seemingly work better. Once cold they were back to just ok.

Remains to be seen if this new set behaves the same. I was working them hard on todays drive just to test them out.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:39 AM   #51
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I don't recall any mention of "arc-grinding" the shoes to match the drums. Do you know if this was necessary or performed, before installation?
Hi, this is true, but the brake shoe arcing machines were outlawed decades ago.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:44 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, this is true, but the brake shoe arcing machines were outlawed decades ago.
And if you've ever done the job you'd know the reason why...don't lament the "old days" on this one.
I was one of the few who would mask-up whenever a brake job was being done in the shop, and always got questioned about the wet floor in my work area.

FYOG.....get a spray bottle and and thoroughly spray the brakes whenever the drums are off and hose down the floor/ground when cleaning up. Ware gloves & mask.


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Old 05-26-2013, 06:31 AM   #53
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Yes always from the drivers side as if you were sitting in the vehicle ( left hand drive ) You are right
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:52 PM   #54
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Quick update.. Brakes did great in the mountains today. Took the Million ollar Highway from outside of Durango to Ouray. A few 10,000+ foot passes and no guard rails where the road wasn't wide enough for the white line in places.

As we descended I had to keep adjusting the power downwards. I ended the day below 7 volts I think. Could have easily locked them up on pavement today. I guess they just really needed a good breaking in.

Thanks all for the advice and troubleshoot help.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:56 PM   #55
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Quick update.. Brakes did great in the mountains today. Took the Million ollar Highway from outside of Durango to Ouray. A few 10,000+ foot passes and no guard rails where the road wasn't wide enough for the white line in places.

As we descended I had to keep adjusting the power downwards. I ended the day below 7 volts I think. Could have easily locked them up on pavement today. I guess they just really needed a good breaking in.

Thanks all for the advice and troubleshoot help.
I had a very similar overall experience with my all-new brakes when I got new axles... I ran a few hundred miles with some stops run mostly with the trailer brakes, etc. as recommended, then adjusted the brakes, then felt like my braking was a bit "meh" for a trip or two. Then I noticed the brakes would lock on normal braking and started backing off on the controller, and I'm now at 7V and find braking to be very satisfactory.
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:26 AM   #56
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Quick update.. Brakes did great in the mountains today. Took the Million ollar Highway from outside of Durango to Ouray. A few 10,000+ foot passes and no guard rails where the road wasn't wide enough for the white line in places.

As we descended I had to keep adjusting the power downwards. I ended the day below 7 volts I think. Could have easily locked them up on pavement today. I guess they just really needed a good breaking in.

Thanks all for the advice and troubleshoot help.
This thread is a lifesaver. We just had our brakes inspected/cleaned this week and after re-installing with our P3, I noticed that I had to crank the P3 to 7.5 to feel any trailer breaking resistance and before it was set at 6.4 for a similar resistance. I was worried that the brakes were somehow reinstalled incorrectly but after reading this post, I am going to try to drive it more and do some power braking as well as crank the power on the controller until I hit lockup with just the brake controller switch on the trailer and then adjust downward for now.

Thanks for the guidance!
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