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Old 05-23-2013, 09:56 PM   #15
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Thanks Rich..

Makes perfect sense.
Now to find some time for even more troubleshooting.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #16
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Rather than checking voltage, or resistance, the easiest thing to do is to check the current the magnets take. Find the + 12 volt pin on the 7 wire trailer plug. Find the brake wire on the plug. Put an ammeter between those two wires. Properly operating wiring should result in 2.5 to 3 amps per wheel, or 10 to 12 amps total for a 4 wheel setup. If you are not getting that reading there is some electrical issue to deal with, from corroded wires to poor grounds. If you read the full current, then there is probably something wrong with the brake setup itself (shoes, adjustment etc.)
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:32 PM   #17
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In Post #5 Tim said he put the "lefts on the curb side".........aren't lefts supposed to be on the driver side?
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Thompson View Post
In Post #5 Tim said he put the "lefts on the curb side".........aren't lefts supposed to be on the driver side?
Ugg yes you are correct.. You'd think a grown man could keep them straight.

I put the lefts on the driver side / street side. The arm the magnet is attached to is facing forward.

My post 5 i stated it wrong.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:40 AM   #19
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One thing that must happen.. you must get brakes warm enough to transfer brake material from pads to drum/disc. So, on all my vehicles, I do some 'power' stops to 'set in' the brakes. They last a long time, rarely squeal and when they do, I repeat the heavy braking and get them hot..

Usually 3 brake applies from 60 to about 10 MPH... then let cool a bit... say for a couple of miles at 60, then repeat... do this for 4 cycles.. let brakes cool down as you drive and slow normally...

Now, test as you did before...
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:58 AM   #20
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Question

Did you clean the new drums with mineral spirits and sand the magnet and brake shoe friction surface?

FWIW...I always replace magnets if they show abnormal(wedge shape)/excessive ware. They may have an internal short.

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Old 05-24-2013, 07:00 AM   #21
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I got to thinking about something after I went to bed last night. You state in post # 1 that with the breakaway switch pulled you have only 11 volts at the hubs...right? AND you have only 11.x volts at the rear bumper TV connector (with the umbilical disconnected and the trailer batteries at 12.6 V?)? I am back to thinking you have two problems.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmaah View Post
Ugg yes you are correct.. You'd think a grown man could keep them straight.

I put the lefts on the driver side / street side. The arm the magnet is attached to is facing forward.

My post 5 i stated it wrong.
On a drum brake the longer shoe is on the front the shorter shoe is the rear. There are no left and rights. The shoes could have been backwards to begin with. That would explain why they didn't work to begin with.
Look here:
10" Electric Brake Assembly RH, Hayes Hayes Trailer Brakes 60202703

In this photo the front is on the left.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
On a drum brake the longer shoe is on the front the shorter shoe is the rear. There are no left and rights. The shoes could have been backwards to begin with. That would explain why they didn't work to begin with.
Look here:
10" Electric Brake Assembly RH, Hayes Hayes Trailer Brakes 60202703

In this photo the front is on the left.
Big shoe little shoe still applies but it's the magnet arm that determines right and left with trailer brakes, the arm must face forward.



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Old 05-24-2013, 07:44 AM   #24
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And good supply voltages and grounds must be present for any of them to work!
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:46 AM   #25
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Wild shot, any chance to try a different TV with your,trailer? Or try your TV on a different trailer. Purpose would be to isolate.

Good luck.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:40 AM   #26
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I had a similar trailer braking problem and ended up buying a new controller (maxbrake). The 5 year old Prodigy controller seemed to work some but didn't seem to put out the power of the newer controller. I borrowed a different tow vehicle before I bought the controller.

I do have a question when it comes to splicing the wires together.
The trailer has a main duplex jacketed brake wire going towards the axles. When it gets to the axles the single wire gets connected to the duplex jacketed brake wire from each wheel.
What is the best connection at the 1 wire to 4 wire (actually 2 wire to 8 wire) junction to get the least resistance?
1. large wire nuts like the factory
2. a small junction block with each wire having an eyelet soldered onto the wire and bolted to the junction block
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:51 AM   #27
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Some will say solder and shrink wrap.

I have used marine connectors that come with shrink wrap on them.

I keep a selection of the heat shrink in the AS tool kit for repairs on the road, no solder needed.

Bob
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:53 AM   #28
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Bob,
Before I replaced the controller I replaced the brake wiring in the trailer. Used a 10 ga duplex jacketed wire and then went to 12 ga jacketed duplex wire out to each wheel. A terminal block was used at a point in front of the axles where the 10 ga met the 12 ga. wire. I was curious if the terminal block is a good way for this transition or should have I just used simple wire nuts.
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