Posted this elsewhere but broad coverage never hurts....
Any ideas on the OEM mileage that can be expected out of OEM brake pads/ linings on an '01 2500HD Suburban with minimal ( less than 6k) tow mileage? LOTS of highway miles - 52k total.
Replaced the OEM tires about 4K ago and they are OK (SteelTec to Michelin). Brakes seem fine but getting a "BIT" soft on long downhill grades, without trailer. Want to be ready to gear up for 'AS/trailer season' without a hicup and so, the question....
If I do go with getting brakes redone (now, wait 2 months/ 6 months) - should go with new brakes? Do I get new pads only ( OEM/ semi-metalic /metalic / other???) and get the rotors surfaced/ not?? All input appreciated!!!
Had a trans flush/refill about 5k ago. 4x4 vehicle - doesn't get much of a workout, thank goodness!
Is there anything else I need to consider while it is/ might be getting work done....?????
Dealership/ independant? Thoughts?
Axel
BTW - Been hearing this wierd high pitched-ish (sorta) noise (tackita, tackita,tackita) on startup in cold temps. Quits after 1 or 1 1/2 minutes. Piston slap? Other? Thanks.
Posted this elsewhere but broad coverage never hurts....
Any ideas on the OEM mileage that can be expected out of OEM brake pads/ linings on an '01 2500HD Suburban with minimal ( less than 6k) tow mileage? LOTS of highway miles - 52k total.
Replaced the OEM tires about 4K ago and they are OK (SteelTec to Michelin). Brakes seem fine but getting a "BIT" soft on long downhill grades, without trailer. Want to be ready to gear up for 'AS/trailer season' without a hicup and so, the question....
If I do go with getting brakes redone (now, wait 2 months/ 6 months) - should go with new brakes? Do I get new pads only ( OEM/ semi-metalic /metalic / other???) and get the rotors surfaced/ not?? All input appreciated!!!
Had a trans flush/refill about 5k ago. 4x4 vehicle - doesn't get much of a workout, thank goodness!
Is there anything else I need to consider while it is/ might be getting work done....?????
Dealership/ independant? Thoughts?
Axel
BTW - Been hearing this wierd high pitched-ish (sorta) noise (tackita, tackita,tackita) on startup in cold temps. Quits after 1 or 1 1/2 minutes. Piston slap? Other? Thanks.
Axel, sounds like your gonna want to have your brakes inspected. This should be a free service at most service centers. If it turns out that you need to have your brakes serviced I always go with the best components available when having my brakes done. Ask your mechanic for advice on this. All brake jobs IMO should include resurfacing/replacing of the rotors. As far as where to have this work done, that is up to you. Make sure you take it to a service center you can trust. This should take precidence over everything else i.e. cost, convenience, etc. As far as the sound you are hearing on start-up, it is hard to diagnose from here but I would guess it is some sort of valve train noise. Possibly, a lifter that is slow in pumping up. This is not totally uncommon and is relatively harmless unless engine performance is effected.
I hope this is of some help to you. Good luck.
Tin Can
__________________
"Your edumacation ain't no hipper than what you understand"- Dr. John
I have an '01 2500hd ext. cab 4X4 truck and am about to hit 49,000 miles. Tires, Steeltex LT245-75-16 factory, look like they can go another 10-12,000 miles. Brake pads all around look good as do rotors. I use to think that you needed to resurface rotors every time you replace pads but no longer. I look at the rotors and if there are uneven surfaces I will have them turned. If they look fine I just slap the pads on and let her rip. Like John said, OEM pads are fine. Do not use ceramic aftermarket pads on a vehicle used for towing.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
Will be getting the oil changed, little service reminder light tells me to do it, so I do!
While the truck is there I'll get them to pull the tires and check the pads. They look OK through the wheels, for what that's worth. No grooves, no noises, no lack of stopping power or anything else untoward. Did notice the resivour is a little down on the fluid - in the lines?? That is what used to happen on my 85 Accord - push the pistons in and the fluid came back up. Don't have a clue with the ABS systems, but can't imagine it goes anywhere else, right?
The oil change place is a local Indepenent shop that has friendly folks that I know from the area - see em all the time here and there. They seem genuinely interested in my biz, my $ and that I am happy with them.
So do I go and get the OEM parts (is all I need really the pads?) so I can be positive they mount what I want -or am I really yanking one of the last real money makers away from them by doing that?? Guess I could specify that they order them and have it all waiting for when I come in with the truck. Get oil and brakes done in one fell swoop.
OR, do I go to the dealer who will be sure to have all parts on hand? Proabably nearly a wash as to $ per hour labor wise.
The dealer is about 35 minutes away. The Indi shop is about 4 minutes away. They have even run me home if the work was going to take awhile.
do not push the fluid back into your master cylinder by prying on the calipers. your ABS will almost certainly quit working.
changing your brake fluid during service work to remove the moisture and crud is the way to go.
go to your independant guy if you like, but use oem pads.
john
Axel, crack open the bleeder screws when pushing the caliper pistons back in. That way, the accumulated crud and corruption will drain out, instead of being shoved back up into the delicate ABS valves and solenoids (an ABS module is around $1800, a can of brake fluid is $1.99). If you for some reason can't use OEM pads, go with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. They have worked well for me for hundreds of brake jobs.
As far as the oil filter, I use an AC Delco PF1218 for mine (5.7 liter), and have had no drainback issues.
The "ticketa, ticketa" sound COULD be an exhaust manifold leak, or maybe a belt tensioner getting ready to fail, they are known for that.
__________________
Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
Will definately NOT be doing any work on the ABS brakes. Brakes are the LAST resort when all else goes to he**! I ain't messing with that. Me and the kids are TOO important. Will get the OEM pads as suggested. Thermo's can be option #2.
Terry, pretty sure that the noise is the classic 'lifter' noise. Will that filter that doesn't allow bleedback help with that issue? Using 5W30 in the truck - had a period of 10W30 while we were in Austria ( 5W30 was virtually unavailable! and 10X price) but that was only about 15K of the 51K on it.
Don't recall seeing what kind of mileage you gents got out of the OEM pads on your TV's. I realize that there is no "one" set number but comparisons are always fun. My dad only gets about 7 or 8K out of a set of brakes ( 2 footed! driver), but he still has the ORIGINAL bulbs!!!!!
Guess I'll get the OEM pads and have the local guys get the work done. Is pads really all I need to get??? JohnHD??? No seals, or whatever?? Do need some OEM fluid too, right? Guess is won't hurt to have it on hand should ??? happen.... Can you still use the new brake fluids as parts cleaner like my uncle used to do in his shop so many years ago???
Perhaps I can also get the coolant changed - also a "special" GM part as I recall. OR are there new coolants that are superior? Any problem mixing them?
OK, guess I got my question jones out now. BTW - computer was down with system issues ( still limping compared to before) but I am getting my forum surfing in!!!!! Yeah baby.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
