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Old 05-24-2012, 11:29 AM   #29
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It melted the wires preassembled on the switch as well as the switch housing
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:30 AM   #30
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As for the TV controller it will pop up a s.c. code identifying a short circuit if one is detected
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:47 PM   #31
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If you connected the positive 12 volt power to the breakaway switch and the wires melted along with the destruction of the breakaway switch, I think you have a short down stream, either in the wiring going to the brakes or internally in the brakes themselves.
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEMACS3 View Post
I did the 12v test on the lines and everything is as it should be and working properly. I attempted to bypass everything and wire the break away switch straight from the battery and to the same brake line that the TV uses on the camper side harness and within a few seconds after pulling the plug on the switch, it melted.
I assume you realize that both wires connected to the break away switch are 12 volt positive.

To test the break away switch, connect one switch lead to 12 volt positive, and the other lead to the positive 12 volt coach wheel brake wire. When the pin is pulled on the switch, the brakes engage.

If one switch wire is connected to 12 volt positive, and the other switch lead in connected to 12 volt negative, a dead short will be created and the wires as well as the switch will burn up.

All the break away switch does is supply power to the brakes. If the trailer brakes work fine when connected to the tow vehicle, and burn up when tested, there's a LOT wrong with the wiring.

Simply rewiring everything should fix it. I had to do that with mine when I got it.

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Old 05-24-2012, 01:45 PM   #33
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Unless you grounded the output side of the brake away switch just after the switch by mistake you have a DEAD SHORT between the brake away switch and the brakes. That short may be one of the magnets in one of the brakes. In any case if you melted the wires at the switch you have most likely melted the brake wiring in the trailer because that is a lighter gauge wire after the separation form side to side in the brake system. The short may be in the axle tube as some times they use the tube to get from the drivers side to the other side. It is common for that wire to rub to a short inside the tube.

The only way to be safe is a complete rewiring of the brake system and a check of the magnets for shorts. Depending on how the brake away switch output wire is routed to the brakes you may have to replace the U Cord If the output wire goes directly to the junction box in the trailer and does not touch any other wiring you should be OK. If it is enclosed tight to any other wiring you My have other burnt wires to deal with.

After rewiring use the 15 amp fuse technique, for a 2 axle trailer and a 20 amp fuse for a tri axle trailer to check the brake away switch lest you melt things again. Do not leave the fuse in the system once it has checked out OK.
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:02 PM   #34
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Howie, wouldn't a short at the brakes reflect back to the controller and affect the operations from the TV as well? Remember everything is functioning properly until I hookup the battery
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:35 PM   #35
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Alright now we are in the swamp of intermittent electrical problems.

I have had a short in the axle tube twice that would come and go depending on road conditions and how the wire came to rest when I stopped. That condition is not a solid electrical connection and would allow some of the brakes to work with the controller. Keep in mind that the controller is a current limiting devise where as the brake has no current limit and thus feeds full 12 volts unlimited current when it is closed. Under normal conditions the resistance of the magnets would be the current limit in the system when the brake away switch is closed and as long as the wire size is big enough nothing will melt.

Now if you have a change in the resistance of one of the magnets, shorted internally, the current will go up and a meltdown can occur. The other condition that could result in a melt down is a worn wire that is VERY CLOSE to but not electrically connected to a ground, the axle tube of chassis. When this condition is present and you apply full 12 volts an arc may occur and fuse that wire to ground. Now you have a Dead SHORT and thing start to melt.

If you rewire the axle strap the wire to the outside of the tube to prevent this problem in the future.

I still can't understand why just hook the trailer battery up would cause the original problem but now you have a bigger issue that has to be resolved before you get back to the battery question.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:04 PM   #36
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Howie, you were absolutely correct with your assumption. A complete re-wire from the brakes out took care of the issues. I'm able to run the battery and the break-away switch works perfectly. Thanks for all the help!
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:23 PM   #37
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It sounds like you have the problem solved. What size wire did you use for the brakes to connector at the tongue?
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:50 AM   #38
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