Newbie Breakaway and Tongue Question

[Starstream]

The PO of the '79 Sovereign removed the 2 front battery boxes and put a single plastic battery box on top of a make-shift aluminum box (that houses the burnt up univolt).

We are taking both boxes off -- moving and combining all the electrical into one unit to be located in the closet, along with a battery bank.

So my question is--Can the breakaway and tongue jack be successfully run off a small 12 volt battery such as a 12-15 amp hour scooter battery?

[Action]

The voltage would be correct. Both the brakes and jack are high amperage devices. In the world called perfect you would never need to operate the brakes in that manner. I bet those brakes draw 3 amps per wheel. I wouldn't want the test to be on the road. And I don't think your scooter battery will be sufficient for long term use on the jack.

Why don't you run cable from where you locate the battery? nay older AS had the battery in the back of the trailer. Use 4 gauge wire and you could be set with one less battery.

>>>>>>>>>Action

[dznf0g]

This is done all the time on non-camping trailers to ensure breakaway operation. Probably a batt a bit bigger....like a garden tractor would be better. The breakaway only has to operate for a couple of minutes or so during a "situation".

For the jack, if a capacity problem arises, could always be situated by pulling the TV forward a few inches, leave the umbilical hooked, and then level the trailer.

Obviously, operating anything for any time while dry camping, including propane detector, fridge (if modern), etc. would be pretty much out of the question except maybe on an overnight.

[HowieE]

It is not a good idea to locate lead acid batteries inside the trailer. There are sealed batteries that you could use.

As for the jack and breakaway system if you do have high capacity batteries on board you can just run a wire from them to the tongue. Considering distance I would suggest at least a # 10 wire.

[SteveH]

The 70's Airstreams had the battery in the back behind the curb side rear wheel in a vented compartment. The tongue jack and break away switch tapped onto the battery charge wire in the front. Nothing new about this.

[xrvr]

One solution may be to buy a breakaway switch with its own battery pack, and go to a manual jack. Jim

[Starstream]

Thank you all for the responses.

Do we need to run separate sets of wires to the front for each device or can one set of wires be run and then split to each device?

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Starstream

Thank you all for the responses.

Do we need to run separate sets of wires to the front for each device or can one set of wires be run and then split to each device?

Again, you do not have to "run wires" to the front. There is already a 12 volt circuit there, it's the charge line that the tow vehicle hooks to, to charge the trailer battery. Tap into that to power the jack and the breakaway switch.

I would install a large self restoring circuit breaker on this line at the trailer battery for safety.

[HowieE]

Yes the charge line from the TV is in the umbilical cord and will have 12 volts on it even when the tv is disconnected but I would not rely on that smaller wire to run the jack or brakes.

I would run a #10 wire forward and split it to feed the jack and brakes. That way you will have a safety factor built in. You should fuse the wire at the battery end for 30 amps and consider fusing the jack, after the split for 20 amps.

If by chance the 30 amp fuse ever blew, due to a shorted wire, the fact that the jack would not work would tell you

[m.hony]

What everyone else said. They answered so thoroughly I don't have anything to add. Cargo trailers and car hauling trailers have a small battery just for the break away brake controller.

[NavyCorpsman]

A battery with sufficient amps to actuate and hold located at the hitch would work. It could be wired or charged manually. I have pulled 10 Yard gooseneck dump trailers, 30 ft flatbeds and car haulers that used a stand alone battery. You must never forget to regularly service it. At least on the day before the hitch fails......

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman

A battery with sufficient amps to actuate and hold located at the hitch would work. It could be wired or charged manually. I have pulled 10 Yard gooseneck dump trailers, 30 ft flatbeds and car haulers that used a stand alone battery. You must never forget to regularly service it. At least on the day before the hitch fails......

And the benefit to having TWO batteries to take care of, maintain, and replace periodically that would not add battery capacity for the trailer would be?????

[Starstream]

Thank you all again for the reply's and suggestions.

HowieE, in researching through other threads. I wanted to say thanks for the idea of placing the 7-way cord through the coupler lock-pin to keep it from getting tangled up in the hitch.

[NavyCorpsman]

Originally Posted by SteveH

And the benefit to having TWO batteries to take care of, maintain, and replace periodically that would not add battery capacity for the trailer would be?????

It was suggested as an option to his many workable solutions. Flexibility when arriving at a decision point sometimes involves compromise. In the end it is all about safety and peace of mind. I prefer the stock set up. Not broken? Don't fix it. Merry Christmas!!!

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman

It was suggested as an option to his many workable solutions. Flexibility when arriving at a decision point sometimes involves compromise. In the end it is all about safety and peace of mind. I prefer the stock set up. Not broken? Don't fix it. Merry Christmas!!!

I understand your point, but my point is there is already a battery in the trailer, so it's a simple thing to just use it.

Thank you and Merry Christmas to you also.

[Starstream]

Thanks again All.

I've always had a "plan for the man" but I am very, very new to travel trailers. I want to be safe and ensure I'm being safe for others. And as my wife always tells me--I can over think things at times.

Such as with the breakaway and jack. In my mind the wire needed for the distance from mid-cabin to the tongue for the breakaway and jack would be too large and cumbersome. So I was exploring alternatives. I was also trying to distribute the weight throughout the trailer.

Again, most likely over thinking the process. But also trying to come up with as many solutions possible and then going with the best one that will fit our needs.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Starstream

Such as with the breakaway and jack. In my mind the wire needed for the distance from mid-cabin to the tongue for the breakaway and jack would be too large and cumbersome. So I was exploring alternatives. I was also trying to distribute the weight throughout the trailer.

A wire that is adequate to charge the battery from the tow vehicle (probably 10 ga.) would be adequate to run the jack and the electric brakes.

[streaminwild]

Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman

You must never forget to regularly service it. At least on the day before the hitch fails......

Ah, if we can only predict the future.

[slowmover]

HowieE idea about a 20A fuse at the jack also adds some difficulty to theft if removed.

I tend to use ANCOR and other USCG approved wiring and devices. Good for this as the fuse holders tend to be better than SAE for weather.

[NevadaGeo]

No, No, and No. You may have disc brakes on that trailer, disc brakes controllers may need 30 amp power with 10 gauge wire to charge the controller. Not the baby wire from the tow vehicle. Not a baby battery.